
"Price #1.00 



ELIZABETH CHILLER 




Class TX 1-L 



Book 



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COPYRICSHT DEPOSIT. 




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The 

Practical Cook Book 



Compiled and arranged by 

ELIZABETH O. HILLER 

Formerly Principal of the 

Chicago Domestic Science Training School 

and Lecturer on Household Science 



PricBy One Dollar 



DOHERTY OPERATING CO. 

NEW YORK 



Copyright, 1910 

BY 

ELIZABETH O. HILLER 



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R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY 
CHICAGO 



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(To tbe 



THOUSANDS OF DEVOTED HOUSEKEEPERS, 

PROSPECTIVE HOUSEKEEPERS 

AND DEAR SWEET SCHOOL GIRLS 

TO WHOM I HAVE GIVEN INSTRUCTIONS 

THE PAST YEAR, 

THIS LITTLE VOLUME OF PRACTICAL RECIPES 

IS MOST AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 

BY THE AUTHOR. 



PREFACE. 

This little volume of simple, every-day dishes, as well as a 
few others which are often called for on more formal occasions, 
has been compiled and arranged in compliance with the requests 
made by thousands of housekeepers whom I have instructed in 
this important branch of household science — COOKERY — dur- 
ing the past year and a half, covering a territory extending from 
the Atlantic to the Pacific coasts. 

I have received many of these requests over my demon- 
stration table, many others through the mail and the verbal 
queries have long since ceased to be numbered. The desire 
to have in ''book form" for safe keeping the valuable recipes 
used in my lectures, has been so great that with the able assist- 
ance of the Doherty Operating Company, of New York City, 
I have been able to complete the Practical Cook Book, which I 
trust will meet "a long felt need" of these dear women whom 
I well know will appreciate its value and make it serve the 
purpose until my larger and more comprehensive cook book 
shall have been completed. The latter will be known as 
Elizabeth O. Killer's Cook Book. Until this book is finished 
I sincerely hope that this lesser book will meet your daily 
needs, and give you one and all the help your particular case 
demands. 

I strongly advise that the chapter on "measuring and com- 
bining ingredients," and the "various methods of cooking," be 
carefully studied and religiously followed and your success will 
be assured. Each recipe has been demonstrated repeatedly be- 
fore tens of thousands of experienced housekeepers, the inex- 
perienced as well as school girls who were just beginning their 
lessons in cookery in the public schools. 

I do not wish any person into whose hands this book may 
fall to understand that this book is anything but an answer to 

5 



6 PREFACE 

these requests as explained in the foregoing. I sincerely hope 
that this condensed course of scientific instructions on cookery 
may prove an inspiration that will lead those housekeepers who 
are now good cooks to cook more and those who have never 
cooked may learn that "Cookery is become an Art, a noble 
Science." E. O. H- 



CONTENTS 



Chapter 






Page 




Elizabeth O. Hiller . . Frontispiece 




The Gas Range 


9 


I 


Methods of Cooking 






17 


II 


How to Measure . 






24 


III 


Beverages 






28 


IV 


Bread and Rolls 






31 


V 


Biscuits, Batters, etc. 






38 


VI 


Cereals .... 






44 


VII 


Eggs .... 






46 


VIII 


Soups and Soup Garnishings 






49 


IX 


Fish, Oysters, etc. 






55 


X 


Meats .... 






62 


XI 


Poultry and Game . 






75 


XII 


Meat and Fish Sauces 






. 81 


XIII 


Vegetables 






. 88 


XIV 


Salad Dressings and Salads 






. 100 


XV 


Entrees 






. 106 


XVI 


Hot Puddings 






III 


XVII 


Pudding Sauces 






• 117 


XVIII 


Cold Puddings 






. 120 


XIX 


Ice Cream, Ices, etc. 






• 123 


XX 


Pastry and Pies 






. 127 


XXI 


Cakes, Fillings and Frostings 






. 132 


XXII 


Small Cakes, Cookies and Gingerbread 




• 139 


XXIII 


Canapes, Sandwiches and Savories , 




• 143 


XXIV 


Stewed and Fresh Fruits 




• 147 


XXV 


Timely Hints 






. 151 



THE GAS RANGE. 

THE MANAGEMENT OF OVEN. 
Temperatures for Broiling, Roasting, Baking, etc. 

The gas range is without doubt the best adapted to meet 
the requirements of housekeepers in general to-day, especially 
when gas is available. 

This valuable and very important appliance of the mod- 
ern kitchen has proven to be the most wonderful conservator 
of time, energy and money, of all inventions of the age. 

To properly manage the gas range, it should be thoroughly 
understood in all its parts and like any other invention for 
practical use, will then prove its worth. 

The gas range includes the following parts: 

Three single top burners. 

One of which has a simmer burner in the center. 

One double top burner. 

Two oven burners which heat both baking and broiling 
ovens. 

The oven for baking and roasting is provided with two 
movable grates. 

The broiling oven is provided with both a movable grate 
and a drip pan. 

All burners are operated by gas cocks. 

A "pilot light" lights the oven burners. 

A movable galvanized iron sheet is found under the top burn- 
ers. This tray catches the drip from foods that "boil over," 
burnt matches, etc. Occasionally a small "simmer" burner will 
be found in the warming oven of some gas ranges. This is a 
great convenience when food is to be kept warm and when 
the warming oven is not placed over the top burners. The 
burners for heating both baking and broiling ovens are in the 
lower or broiling oven. In this oven, chops, steaks, fish, small 
birds, toast, parching rice, browning nuts, in fact, all quick 

9 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



cooking and browning is done by direct heat from the burners 
above the broiler. Baking and roasting are done in the oven 
above the broiler. This oven is heated by indirect heat; cur- 
rents of hot air passing around all sides and top of oven. 

Bread, loaves of cake, roasts of meat, etc., should be cooked 
on the lower grate, placed in the groove about three or four 
inches from the floor of the oven. Rolls, tea biscuits, layer 
cakes, cookies, etc., should be baked on the top grate, placed 
from six to seven inches from the floor of the oven. These 
mixtures, which are cooked in a short period of time, require 
a higher temperature or what is commonly called a "quick 
oven." Since the top of the oven is the hotter part, cooking and 
browning these articles is best accomplished when they are 
placed on the top grate. Never bake or roast anything placed 
on the floor of the gas oven. There should always be a space 
of several inches between the floor and the vessel in which 
food is being cooked. The grates can be adjusted as the 
case requires and better results will be obtained. To success- 
fully manage a gas range it is absolutely necessary to become 
thoroughly acquainted with all these parts. Be sure you know 
which pipe and gas cock supplies each burner with fuel. Learn 
the direction in which to turn the gas cocks; to the left to 
turn on the gas, and to the right to cut it ofif. Light the match 
before turning on the gas; briefly, burn matches rather than 
waste gas. 

Be sure that both oven doors are open before lighting the 
"pilot light" which lights the oven burners. See that the 
"pilot light" is turned ofif after oven burners are lighted. 

When the gas range is not in use, see that the gas cock in 
the main pipe is turned ofif, also those of the top, and oven 
burners. 

Keep the gas range perfectly clean in all its parts. The 
burners should be scalded in a solution of sal-soda occasionally 
to cut the grease and charred food that often "cook over" on 
them ; the tray under the top burners is easily kept cleaned if 
washed daily. 

The floors of the oven should be scraped free from all 



THE GAS RA^GE 



charred food and washed with a soap solution once a week 
or when necessary. 

Make it a rule to turn the gas cock to the right to cut oflE 
the flow of gas, before removing food from range, or as soon 
as cooking is finished, in this way the waste of gas is lessened. 

Air is supplied through wickets in an enlarged part of the 
pipe close to the stop cocks. This mingling of air and gas 
causes the gas to burn with a blue flame which is exceed- 
ingly hot. Occasionally when lighting a burner the gas will 
burn back ni the enlarged portion of pipe (the air chamber) 
making a loud, disagreeable noise. When this occurs, turn the 
gas cock of the lighted burner to the right, thus shutting off 
the gas. Wait a moment or two and gas will have passed out 
of the air chamber; then turn the gas cock to the left and again 
apply the lighted match. 

To light a top single burner on the gas range, first light a 
match, turn the gas cock to the left; apply the lighted match. 
When lighting a double burner, proceed as above, lighting the 
outer burner first, turn the gas cock to the left, supplying the 
inner burner, and the gas will light from the outer burner. 

To light the oven burners, first open both oven doors; light 
a match, turn to the left the cock supplying the "'pilot light" 
with gas, and apply the match through an opening made for 
that purpose on the outside of the oven between the two gas 
cocks that supply the oven burners with fuel. Turn the cock 
of one of the oven burners to the left and the gas will light 
from the pilot light; turn the cock of remaining oven burner 
to the left and the gas will light as the other, from the pilot 
light. 

When the gas burners of the oven show that the gas flows 
throughout the burners, turn of? the pilot light and close the 
oven doors. 

To use the strictest economy in operating the gas range, 
observe the following instructions: 

As soon as the water in the tea-kettle or other vessels boils 
turn the gas off entirely or as low as possible. When the 
water is boiling gently it is just as hot as when boiling hard 



12 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

and is capable of doing the same work. Use the simmer 
burner as much as possible, especially when cooking at a low 
temperature is required. 

When the oven has been heated to the desired tempera- 
ture, turn the gas cocks of both oven burners to the right suffi- 
ciently to keep the temperature to the degree desired. It is 
sometimes necessary to turn one burner ofif entirely. 

It is a good plan to learn to turn ofif the flow of gas be- 
fore removing the food from the oven. There is then no dan- 
ger of forgetting it. The oven burners being the largest burn- 
ers, there is naturally a greater consumption of gas; if, how- 
over, the foregoing suggestions are rigidly followed, a great sav- 
ing of fuel as well as very satisfactory results will follov/. 

When the oven is to be used, plan to cook several articles 
at the same time. For instance, when roasting or braising 
meat, plan to have baked potatoes and a baked pudding; bake 
apples, or prepare the sauce by baking it in a pudding dish 
closely covered in the oven, thus utilizing the fuel to the best 
advantage. The oven makes an admirable warming oven; the 
dishes may be kept warm for some time after the gas is turned 
off. A small portable oven that may be placed over a single 
burner will prove both convenient and economical, especiallj' 
when the weather is hot. 

TEMPERATURE OF OVEN. 

The gas range is used to-day — where gas is available — to 
the exclusion of all other cooking devices. For broiling, toast- 
ing and browning crumb covered dishes, etc., light the oven 
burners, close both (baking and broiling oven) doors, from 
six to seven minutes before placing the food to be cooked in it. 

FOR BROILING. 

Grease the rack over drip pan thoroughly; place the article 
to be broiled on the rack, and raise the drip pan holding the 
rack close to the burners, at such a distance that the flame 
will not touch the chops, steaks, etc. Turn often to sear the 



THE GAS RANGE 13 

surface well and to brown richly. When this is accomplished, 
remove the broiler six inches from the flame (according to the 
thickness of article being cooked), reduce the flame, turn occa- 
sionally and finish cooking. 

To roast meat, birds, etc., successfully in the broiling oven 
when baking in the upper or bake oven, it must be carefully 
watched, turned and basted often to prevent burning. In this 
case the pan holding the roast is placed on the broiler such a 
distance from the flame as to avoid all danger of scorching the 
meat. The exact distance depends largely on the thickness of 
the article being roasted. 

FOR BAKING BREAD AND LOAF CAKE. 

Light the oven burners, close the doors seven to ten min- 
utes before putting in the food. The oven should be suffi- 
ciently hot to brown a teaspoon of flour a golden brown in 
five minutes. This is called a "bread oven." The oven's heat 
is better controlled, if when baking the door of the lower 
or broiling oven, if not in use, is left open. 

THE OVEN'S TEMPERATURE FOR BAKING 
BREAD, ETC. 

Divide the dough into one pound loaves; place two of these 
in one pan as directed in chapter on Bread, Rolls, etc. When 
light place the loaves in the oven, and take the time, by the 
clock, allowing forty-five minutes for this size loaf. The tem- 
perature of the oven should be from 360 degrees to 400 degrees 
F. Divide the time of baking into three periods of fifteen min- 
utes each. During the first period the bread should rise its full 
height without browning; in the second period the bread should 
begin browning, and in the last period it should finish brown- 
ing and "loosen" in the pans. 

The bread or loaf cake should not brown during the first 
fifteen minutes. Should it show signs of browning the flame 
must be reduced at once. 

The initial heat must be strong enough to cook the walls of 



14 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

the pores in both bread and cake, but not to brown the sur- 
face. 

The gas cocks of the oven may be turned to the right half 
way, when the bread has risen its full height in the oven, which 
may be five or six minutes after placing it there. 

The last hfteen minutes of baking the bread it may be neces- 
sary to turn one of the gas cocks oflf entirely. The bread 
should be light, evenly and richly browned when removed 
from the oven. 

BAKING TEA BISCUITS, LAYER CAKES, 
COOKIES, ETC. 

The oven should be sufficiently hot to brown a teaspoon of 
flour a golden brown in one minute. This is a very hot oven 
and the gas cocks may be turned half off when placing the 
food in the oven. Such articles as these bake in a short time, 
from twelve to twenty minutes. 

The tea biscuit, shortcake, etc., should rise their full height 
the first five minutes, begin to brown the second five minutes, 
finish browning the last five minutes and "loosen" from the pan. 
This is called a "quick oven." 

A VERY MODERATE OVEN. 

To get the temperature of this oven, light the burner 
three or four minutes before placing the teaspoon of flour in 
the oven; it should brown a golden brown in about seven min- 
utes. Such an oven is used for making Angel and Sunshine cakes, 
also molasses mixtures. 

TESTING THE OVEN. 
(A Hot Oven.) 

Toss a teaspoon of flour on a pie pan. Light the oven 
burners ten minutes before placing it in the oven. Place 
the pan on the top grate. The temperature of the oven should 
be sufficiently high to brown the flour in one minute. This 
is called "a biscuit or quick oven." 



THE GAS RANGE 



A MEDIUM OVEN. 

Repeat this process ; lighting the oven seven to ten minutes 
before placing the flour in the oven. For this temperature 
the flour should brown the desired color in five minutes. This 
is called "a bread oven." 

A MODERATE OVEN. 

Follow same process as in the foregoing, lighting oven burn- 
ers either when the flour is placed in the oven or three min- 
utes before. The flour should brown a golden brown in seven 
to ten minutes. Sponge cakes, egg mixtures of all kinds, as 
well as molasses mixtures are best baked in this oven. This 
is called a "slow oven." 

The foregoing tests are simple ones, requiring only a little 
time and patience on the part of the housewife, who will be 
abundantly repaid for the time taken to familiarize herself 
with the most important step in learning how to cook with 
gas. The only fuel used to-day in all of our large institutions 
where Domestic Science is taught. 

If you would learn to use the gas range efficiently and 
economically it is essential that you should learn to read the 
gas meter. 

TO READ THE GAS METER. 




Read from left hand dial to right, always taking the figures which the 
index hands have passed, namely: By above, dials register 677, adding two 
ciphers for hundreds, making 67700 feet registered. Subtract your last 
month's register from this, and you have the amount of gas consumed. 



CHAPTER I. 



METHODS OF COOKING. 

There are ten methods followed in cooking food, i. e.; Boil- 
ing, Stewing, Steaming, Fricasseeing, Braising, Roasting, Broil- 
ing or Grilling, Baking, Sauteing, and Frying. 

BOILING. 

Boiling is cooking food in boiling water. Water boils at 
212 degrees F. (sea level) ; water simmers at 195 degrees F. 
Water boiling slowly has the same temperature as while boil- 
ing rapidly, and is capable of doing the same amount of work, 
an important fact often overlooked by the cook, who is very apt 
to waste fuel by keeping the valves of the gas range wide open 
that the water may boil more rapidly. 

STEWING. 

Stewing is cooking food in sufficient hot water (195 degrees 
F.) to cover, at this temperature for a long time. This is the 
most economical method of cooking the cheaper and tougher 
pieces of meats, fowl, etc. The nutriment is practically all re- 
tained, while the fibre and connective tissues are softened and 
made both palatable and readily digested. 

STEAMING. 
Steaming is cooking food over boiling water in a steamer, 
or in moulds placed on a trivet in a kettle and surrounded by 
boiling water. Cooking in a double boiler is called steaming. 

FRICASSEEING. 

Fricasseeing is first browning the less tender meat richly, 
in a small amount of fat; then simmering until tender in a sauce. 

17 



i8 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

The tender meats are fricasseed (without previous cooking) in a 
rich sauce. Veal is immature meat and requires longer cooTc- 
ing and is usually browned delicately all over before simmering 
in the sauce. 

BRAISING. 

Braising is considered a more elaborate process of stewing. 
Vessels are made especially for this method of cooking with 
sunken lids to hold hot coals, etc. These are expensive; how- 
ever, a Dutch oven will serve the purpose admirably at a much 
less cost. The piece of meat or bird should be but, a trifle 
smaller than the vessel — about one and one-half inch space all 
around is ample. Dripping or salt pork fat tried out is melted 
in the bottom and a bed mixed of vegetables, carrots, onion, 
celery, turnip, etc.. cut in small dice; also a small bay leaf, a 
sprig each of parsley, thyme, and marjoram, one-half teaspoon 
pepper corns and salt to taste. Place article to be cooked on 
this bed of vegetables, skewered into shape and larded if nec- 
essary; add one cup brown stock and cover securely; cook until 
meat is tender; then remove the cover and brown the meat 
richly, the last twenty minutes of cooking. The time required 
for cooking by this method depends largel}^ on the size, kind 
and quality of the meat. 

ROASTING. 

Roasting and Broiling are closely related to each other. They 
are perhaps the most primitive methods of cooking. Almost 
all other ways of cooking are derivities of these two methods. 
They too are the most highly esteemed, because of the delightful 
flavors developed in meats, fish, or birds. In roasting the ar- 
ticle cooked is exposed to very high temperature either by 
direct rays of an open fire or by the reflected heat from the 
walls of a hot oven. Since the latter method is that most 
largely followed in this country, the two words roasting and 
baking are therefore used as synonymous. Since the meats, birds, 
etc., cooked by this method are for the most part served rare 
or a little under done, it is confined chiefly to the tenderest 
muscles of meat and young birds, tirne being an important 



METHODS OF COOKING 



If 



factor when the tougher muscles and connective tissues are 
to be made both tender and soluble. 

BROILING OR GRILLING. 

Broiling or Grilling as in roasting, is exposing the article 
to be cooked to the direct rays of the gas flame. In this 
case we are dealing with much thinner pieces of meat or 
smaller birds, etc. These articles are prepared so as to expose 
as much surface as possible to the heat; the object is to first 
sear the surface over quickly to retain the rich juices, then con- 
stantly turning until the article is richly browned; and in the 
case of steaks and chops the fat should be delicately crusted, 
great care being taken that the flesh is not touched by the flame 
or scorched. After the browning is accomplished the broiler 
may be removed a greater distance from the flame and the gas 
flame reduced also. Then turn the article occasionally until 
finished. A hinged broiler well greased may be used and saves 
handling the article. This is laid on the gas broiler; the latter 
well greased also; draw out the drip-pan and turn the broiler 
holding the meat that all drippings may fall in the drip-pan. 
Broiling under the gas flame will prove entirely satisfactory, 
and does not make a "muss" as charcoal. The latter method is no 
longer practiced in the private house because of the labor it in- 
A'olves. Panbroiling is cooking the article in a well greased 
hissing hot cast iron skillet, turning often and drawing off the 
fat as it "tries out." 

BAKING. 

Baking is cooking in the oven of the gas range by confined 
heat. 

SAUTEING. 

Sauteing is but a trifle different from panbroiling. The fat is 
allowed to remain in the skillet. Briefly, the article is cooked 
in a small amount of hot fat, browning the food first on one 
side, then turnmg and browning on the other. For many rea- 
sons this method of cooking is not commended; the food too 
often becomes "grease soaked" and is therefore not as wholesome, 
as food cooked by other methods. 



20 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



FRYING. 

Frying is cooking by means of immersion in deep hot fat, 
the temperature of which is from 350 to 400 degrees F. For this 
method of cooking, lard, olive oil, beef drippings, etc., may be 
used. The fat should be tested before the food is put into it, 
that the temperature may be just right, otherwise the food 
may absorb some of the fat. Many articles cooked in this 
manner are first rolled in crumbs, egg and crumbs, or flour, egg 
and crumbs, before frying. The high temperature of the fat 
hardens the albumen, thus forming a thin crust which prevents 
the food from becoming "fat soaked." When frying meat or fish 
it is well to keep it in a warm room for some time before cook- 
ing, then wipe it as dry as possible. If it is brought from a cold 
place it lowers the temperature of the fat many times to the 
degree that the delicate coating is not formed quickly enough 
to prevent the food from soaking the fat. When the fat "boils" 
it is due to the excess of water found in the food being cooked. 
Be careful when following this method of cooking that too much 
food is not put into the kettle of fat at one time, for this not 
only lowers the temperature of the fat, but might cause it to 
boil over the sides of the kettle and cause a severe accident. 
You must remember it is not the fat that boils; it is the water 
which has escaped from the food. All food cooked by the fry- 
ing method should be carefully removed from the fat and 
drained on brown paper. Crumbed food is placed in the cro- 
quette basket before placing it in the hot fat. This prevents the 
food from moving about, which sometimes causes the crust to 
loosen from the food, thus allowing it to absorb the fat. 

TESTING FOR HOT FAT. 

When testing the fat use one-inch cubes of stale bread. For 
uncooked mixtures such as doughnuts, fritters, etc., the cubes 
of bread should brown a golden brown in one minute. For 
cooked mixtures, such as cutlets, croquettes, etc.. the cube of 
bread should brown a golden brown in forty to fifty seconds. 



METHODS OF COOKING 



CARE OF FAT. 

After the frying is completed and the fat is cooled and set- 
tled, an old sieve should be placed in the lard pail; over this 
lay a double fold of cheese cloth, and strain the tat through it. 
The pail should be marked "Dripping for Frying." This fat is 
ready for use when again needed; the pail may be placed on the 
range for a moment, when the fat may be easily turned into the 
frying kettle. Place the kettle over the simmer burner and 
heat the dripping slowly; drop into it two or three slices of 
raw potato. Owing to the porosity of the potato it readily ab- 
sorbs all impurities of the fat and it is thus clarified. When 
this fat has been used repeatedly it becomes brown, due to the 
carbonized particles of crumbs, flour, etc., left in it from time 
to time. It also undergoes chemical changes. This change will 
also come about when the fat has become overheated. It will 
not brown the articles to be fried properly. It may be strained 
and set aside for making soap. If proper attention is given this 
fat it may be used many times. 



WAYS OF PREPARING FOOD BEFORE COOKING. 

EGGING AND CRUMBING FOOD. 

For this purpose dry bread crumbs, which have been grated 
and sifted, or crackers rolled and sifted, or soft stale bread 
broken in pieces and gently rubbed through the croquette basket 
may be used. Eggs used for crumbing should be broken into a 
shallow plate or platter and slightly beaten with a fork to mix 
the white and yolk thoroughly. The eggs should be diluted in 
this proportion: two tablespoons of cold milk or water to each 
egg. Crumbs should be tossed on a board; food to be fried 
should be first crumbed lightly all over, then dipped in egg and 
the mixture allowed to entirely cover the article, then carefully 
removed and rolled in crumbs again. When the crumbing is 
completed, remove food to a place on the board where there are 
no crumbs, carefully shaking off the outer ones which some- 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



times makes the coating too heavy. A spatula is the most con- 
venient utensil for removing the food from the egg mixture. 
The object of first crumbing food is to dry the surface that the 
egg may cling to it. Many times flour is used for this purpose 
where a thin coating is desired, and, too, flour is often used 
where crumbs will not adhere to the food. For example, when 
fish is crumbed it is often dredged with flour, dipped in the 
egg mixture, then in crumbs, placed in the croquette basket and 
fried. 

LARDING. 

Larding is introducing small strips of fat salt pork or bacon 
through uncooked meat. The lean, dry meats are larded to sup- 
ply them with fat in which they are lacking and also to de- 
velop flavor. The tenderloins of beef (fillet), calves' liver, the 
legs of lean birds, also grouse, partridge, pigeon and sweet- 
breads are larded. The pork from pigs is firmer and is con- 
sidered the best for larding. This fat pork should be kept in 
a very cold place that it may become thoroughly chilled. The 
"larding fat" is found underneath the rind between the latter 
and a vein which divides the tougher fat from the more ten- 
der. From this fat is cut the lardoons. These slices are cut 
sometimes less than a fourth of an inch thick, then cut in nar- 
row strips, these strips cut in the desired length. For small 
birds, such as quail, the lardoons are cut very small. To lard: 
Introduce one end of the lardoon into a larding needle, hold 
securely and with the pointed end take up a stitch one-half inch 
deep and one-half inch wide; draw needle through carefully, 
that laroon does not escape from the needle; the ends of the 
lardoon should project evenly over the surface of the meat. 
In the case of larding a "fillet" of beef the lardoons are intro- 
duced in parallel rows, an inch and a half apart, stitches in 
the alternate rows being taken immediately under each other. 
When larding the various cuts of meat, lard with the grain of 
the meat; larding the "fillet" is the exception, the lardoons 
being introduced crosswise the grain of the meat. When lard- 
ing birds the lardoons are inserted at right angles with the 



METHODS OF COOKING 23 

breast bone on either side and then trimmed evenly. When 
larger lardoon are used, and are forced through the meat from 
one side to the other, this is called daubing; when preparing 
beef a la mode this method is followed. Oftentimes very thin 
slices of fat salt pork or bacon are placed over meat as a sub- 
stitute for larding. The delicious flavor, however, is not de- 
veloped in this way as when the pork is drawn through the 
meat, and the dish is not as attractive looking. 



CHAPTER II. 



HOW TO MEASURE. 

A system of accurate measurements is absolutely necessary 
to insure success. Scientific training has exploded the old idea 
"that with good judgment and experience, measuring ingredients 
by sight will do." The exact quantity called for, measured 
each time in the same utensil, whether it be cup, tablespoon or 
teaspoon, are definite guides that must be followed if success 
would be attained. Enameled measuring cups, plainly marked in 
quarters and thirds, each holding one-half pint, a teaspoon hold- 
ing sixty drops, a tablespoon of ordinary size (do not mistake a 
dessert spoon for this spoon) and a case knife, are the few 
essentials that must be used for measuring ingredients in the 
recipes incorporated in this book. These utensils may be pur- 
chased at any kitchen furnishing shop for a nominal sum. 

TO MEASURE DRY INGREDIENTS. 

All flours, meal, confectioners', powdered and granulated 
sugar and other dry ingredients that are put into cartons or 
cans that are apt to settle and in some cases harden, should 
be sifted before measuring. This suggestion is not to be ignored 
if you would be successful as well as economical, for by sifting 
these ingredients they are lightened and therefore made to go 
further. 

A CUPFUL. 

A cupful means all the cup will hold. The cup is filled with 
a tablespoon heaping full, then leveled with a knife. Great care 
must be taken not to shake the cup. All dry ingredients are 
tossed lightly into the cup, then leveled with a knife. 

TABLESPOONS AND TEASPOONS. 

Tablespoons of regulation size are filled and leveled with a 
knife. A teaspoon is filled and leveled with a knife. To measure 

24 





-0!,«mTEASPooH HAiTTiAspooN HJii TTAsPooH MEASURING CUP MARKED IN QUARTERS 




QSHKIIRTABUSPOON MALT TABLESPOON ™LL TABLESPOON MEASURING CUP MARKED IN THIRDS 



HOW TO MEASURE 25 

liquids, a tabic or teaspoon means all the spoon will hold. To 
measure dry ingredients in a table or teaspoon, dip the spoon 
in the ingredients, when filled, lift and level with a knife, sharp 
edge of blade turned toward handle of spoon. Dividing with 
knife lengthwise of bowl of spoon is a half tablespoon; dividing 
the half cross-wise is a fourth and dividing the fourth cross- 
wise is one-eighth. Divisions are made in the teaspoon the 
same. Less than an eighth of teaspoon is a few grains. 

MEASURING LIQUIDS. 
Place the cup to be filled on a saucer and fill it to the brim. 
A cupful of liquid could not be carried safely across the kitchen 
without spilling some of its contents. 

MEASURING BUTTER, LARD, ETC. 

Fats used for shortening are packed solidly in cups, table 
and teaspoon and leveled with a knife. A pair of measuring 
cups will be found very convenient when measuring ingredients, 
one for the dry and the other for the shortening and liquids. 
One cup may serve the purpose if dry ingredients are measured 
first, then liquids and fats, when such ingredients are called for. 

COMBINING INGREDIENTS. 

The next very important step toward success in all cookery 
is in combining ingredients and mixtures; the one too often 
disregarded by the amateur. There are three motions used in 
combining ingredients — stirring, beating, and cutting and fold- 
ing. 

Stirring: Is combining ingredients by circular motions, en- 
larging and repeating these motions until all ingredients are 
thoroughly blended. This motion is most commonly used in 
general cookery, either alone or alternately with beating. 

Beating: Is accomplished by cutting down through ingre- 
dient or ingredients with a mixing spoon or a similar utensil 
from top to bottom, turning ingredients over and over, cutting 
through them until all are thoroughly blended and lightened. 
By this motion ingredients are not only blended, but air also is 
incorporated, which increases the lightness of mixture. 



26 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Cutting and Folding: Means to combine two mixtures, one 
made very light by beating or whipping (as heavy cream or 
whites of eggs) ; this is a combinaton of the two former motions. 
It is best accomplished with a wooden spoon made for this 
purpose. These repeated vertical downward motions made with 
this spoon are called cutting; turning the ingredients over 
and over allowing the spoon with each turn to come in con- 
tact with the bottom of the bowl is called folding. Repeating 
these motions until the ingredients are thoroughly blended 
without destroying the air bubbles previously made by beating 
or whipping part of mixture. 

Briefly: To stir means blending ingredients. To beat means 
lightening the mixture by incorporating air. To cut and fold is 
combining two mixtures (one of which has been made light by 
beating) in such a manner as to prevent the escape or loss of air 
previously introduced. 

STANDARD TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
All measurements are made level. 
A teaspoon of regulation size holds sixty drops. 
Three teaspoons of liquid equal one tablespoon. 
Four tablespoons of liquid equal one-half gill or one-quarter cup. 
Two gills equal one cup. 
Two cups equal one pint. 
Two pints (four cups) equal one quart. 
Four cups of flour equal one pound or one quart. 
Four cups of liquid equal one quart. 
Two cups of butter packed solidly equal one pound. 
One-half cup butter packed solidly equals one-quarter pound or 

four ounces. 
Two cups granulated sugar equal one pound. 
Two and one-half cups powdered sugar equal one pound. 
Two cups milk or water equal one pound. 
Two cups chopped meat, packed solidly, equal one pound. 
Nine to ten eggs (without shells) equal one pound. 
Two tablespoons butter (solid and level) equal one ounce. 



HOW TO MEASURE 27 

Four tablespoons butter (solid and level) equal two ounces or 

one-quarter cup. 
Two tablespoons granulated sugar equal one ounce. 
Two tablespoons flour equal one ounce. 
Four tablespoons coffee equal one ounce. 
One tablespoon liquid equals one-half ounce. 
Tbsp. — Tablespoon. 
Tsp. — Teaspoon. 
F. G. — Few grain. 



CHAPTER III. 



BEVERAGES. 

BOILED COFFEE. 

1 cup medium ground coffee i cup cold water 

2 tablespoons slightly beaten 6 cups boiling water. 

egg 
Process: Put the coffee in a bowl; beat egg slightly with a 
fork. Add two tablespoons of the beaten egg to the coffee. Add 
one-half cup of cold water. Mix well and turn into an enameled 
lined coffee pot, previously scalded. Add six cups boiling water; 
pack the spout of the coffee pot with soft paper, place on range 
and bring to boiling point. Boil four minutes from the time 
coffee begins to boil. Stir down and add remaining half cup 
of cold water. Pour off a cup to clean the spout of grounds re- 
turn to coffee pot and place the latter on an asbestos sheet 
over the simmer burner, where it will keep hot but not boil. 
Let stand ten minutes. Serve with hot cream. If for any reason 
the coffee must stand longer than that, strain it from the 
grounds and keep it at a uniform temperature until ready to 
serve. Change of temperature affects coffee very materially. 

CAFE AU LAIT. 

Follow recipe for Boiled Coffee, using three cups of boiling 
water and three cups scalded milk. When the coffee is placed 
over simmer burner to ripen, scald the milk in a double boiler, 
then combine the two. This is a most delicious beverage and 
serves the purpose well when cream is scarce. 

TEA. 

3 teaspoons tea 2 cups boiling water 

Process: Scald the tea pot with clean hot water. Put tea 
into pot and add boiling water. Let infuse five minutes. Serve 

28 



BEVERAGES 



in hot cups with cream and sugar, or omit the cream and add a 
thin slice of lemon. When a candied strawberry or cherry is 
added to the tea, it is called Russian Tea. 

COCOA. 

4 tablespoons cocoa 4 cups scalded milk 

J4 cup sugar Yi. teaspoon vanilla 

Few grains salt i cup boiling water 

Process: Scald milk in double boiler. Mix cocoa, sugar and 
salt in a sauce-pan. Add sufficient boiling water to make a 
smooth paste; stir constantly. Then add remaining water, place 
on range and boil one minute. Turn into scalded milk and beat 
two or three minutes with a Dover egg beater. A foam will 
form on top, preventing the scum from rising, which is so un- 
sightly. This is called "milling." 

CHOCOLATE. 

4 cups scalded milk Few grains salt 

2 squares Baker's chocolate i cup boiling water 

Process: Scald milk in double boiler. Break chocolate into 
small pieces and melt in a small sauce-pan placed over hot 
water. Add sugar, salt and slowly the boiling water, stirring 
constantly. Place over simmer burner covered with asbestos 
sheet and cook one minute. Great care must be taken that the 
mixture does not scorch. Combine with scalded milk; mill 
thoroughly with the Dover egg beater. Place a heaping tea- 
spoon of whipped cream in each hot chocolate cup and pour on 
the hot mixture. Serve immediately. 

LEMONADE. 

2 cups sugar 3 thin shavings lemon peel 

J/2 cup hot water 2 quarts cold water 

Juice 6 lemons 
Process: Put sugar in a sauce-pan, add hot water; stir well. 
Place on range and bring to boiling point; boil three minutes. 
Pour hot syrup over lemon peel, being careful that all the white, 
bitter portion has been removed from the latter. Let stand until 



30 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

syrup is cold. Add the lemon juice and cold water; mix well. 
Let stand two hours in a covered vessel, then strain. Dilute 
with cracked ice. 

OAT MEAL WATER. 

Put one quart Quaker oats through the meat chopper. Pour 
over meal two quarts boiling water. Let stand in a warm 
place, temperature about 80 degrees F., two hours or more. 
Oat meal will settle to the bottom of the vessel; then pour off 
liquor very carefully. Strain through double cheesa cloth or 
jelly bag. Chill thoroughly. This is a most refreshing beverage 
for hot weather, and especially good for one employed at hard 
manual labor. 

OAT MEAL LEMONADE. 

A most delicious summer beverage may be made by adding 
syrup and lemon juice prepared as for lemonade, to two quarts of 
oat meal water. Chill thoroughly but do not dilute with cracked ice. 



CHAPTER IV. 



BREAD AND ROLLS. 

MILK BREAD. 

2 cups scalded milk i Fleischmann's yeast cake 

2 tablespoons sugar dissolved in 

2 tablespoons butter or lard >2 cup lukewarm water 
lYz teaspoon salt 6 to 7 cups sifted flour 

Process: Put sugar, shortening and salt into mixing bowl; 
add scalded milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake, 
with a wooden batter spoon, stir in flour to a stiff dough; turn on a 
well floured board; knead until dough is smooth and springy 
(using the seventh cup of flour for this purpose). Brush dough 
over lightly with melted lard, cover and set to rise in a warm 
place (70 to 90 degrees F.). When dough has doubled its bulk, 
cut it down and knead it slightly without removing from mix- 
ing bowl. When again double in bulk, turn on floured board, 
divide into three equal parts weighing one pound each; shape 
into loaves. Place two loaves in one buttered pan, brush be- 
tween with melted butter; put remaining loaf in a smaller pan. 
Cover and set to rise. When light bake in an oven 360 to 
400 degrees F. forty-five minutes. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

2 cups scalded milk or water i Fleischmann's yeast cake 

2 tablespoons butter or lard dissolved in 

4 tablespoons sugar or mo- Yz cup lukewarm water 

lasses 4 cups sifted Graham flour 

lJ/2 teaspoon salt 3 cups white flour 

Process: Put sugar or molasses and salt in mixing bowl; 
add scalded milk. When mixture is lukewarm add dissolved 
yeast cake. Add flour; beat thoroughly; cover and let rise to 

31 



32 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

double its bulk; turn on a floured board; knead slightly. Shape 
into loaves; place in buttered brick shape pans cover and set 
to rise. When light bake forty-five minutes in a bread oven. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD. 

2 cups scalded milk i Fleischmann's yeast cake 

2 tablespoons butter dissolved in 

J4 cup sugar J/2 cup lukewarm water 

■21/2 cups bread flour 
4^ cups entire wheat flour 
Process: Follow recipe for making Milk Bread. Mix stiff 
and knead the same. Molasses may be used in place of sugar. 
Bake forty-five to fifty minutes. 

QUAKER OATS BREAD. 

1 package Quaker oats 2 tablespoons butter 

4 cups boiling water i Fleischmann's yeast cake 

2 teaspoons salt dissolved in 

I tablespoon sugar Yz cup lukewarm water 

2 quarts flour 
Process: Put oats, salt, sugar and butter into a mixing bowl. 
Add tv/o cups boiling water; let stand until lukewarm. Then 
add remaining two cups hot water, and when lukewarm add 
yeast cake and flour, one cup at a time, beating constantly. 
When all but two cups have been added, dredge the moulding 
board heavily with some of remaining flour, and knead in the 
two cups if necessary. Knead the dough until the ingredients 
are well blended and dough is elastic to the touch. Cover and 
set to rise in a warm place until double in bulk; cut down and 
knead slightly without removing dough from bowl. Let rise 
again, and when double in bulk, turn on a floured board, knead 
slightly, shape into loaves, each loaf weighing one pound. 
Set to rise, and when light bake one hour. This dough is very 
sticky, and it may be necessary to use more flour for dredging 
the board. 



BREAD AND ROLLS 



GERMAN COFFEE CAKE. 

1 cup scalded milk i Fleischmann's yeast cake 
J4 cup butter dissolved in 

y3 cup sugar % cup lukewarm water 

y2 teaspoon salt i egg well beaten 

J/2 cup seeded and shredded raisins 
Flour 

Process: Put butter, sugar and salt in mixing bowl; add 
scalded milk. When lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake, beaten 
egg and sufficient flour to make a very thick batter. Beat thor- 
oughly until mixture is smooth. Add raisins, cover closely and 
set to rise. When light, spread dough in buttered dripping pan 
one inch in thickness; cover and let rise again. Before placing 
in the oven brush over with beaten egg and cover with the fol- 
lowing mixture: 

Melt one-third cup butter in a sauce pan, add one-half cup 
sugar, mix with one and one-half teaspoons cinnamon. When 
sugar is partially melted add one and one-half tablespoons flour. 
Mix well and spread on cake, strew top with blanched and shred- 
ded almonds, bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. 

2 cups scalded milk i Fleischmann's yeast cake 
4 tablespoons butter dissolved in 

2 tablespoons sugar % cup lukewarm water 

I teaspoon salt 5J/2 to 6 cups flour 

Process: Put butter, sugar and salt into mixing bowl; add 
scalded milk; stir well. When lukewarm add dissolved yeast 
cake and three cups flour. Beat well; cover and set to rise until 
sponge is light. Beat sponge and add remaining flour. Set to 
rise again. When light turn on a floured board and roll to one- 
third inch thickness. Shape with a biscuit cutter measuring two 
and one-half inches in diameter, dipping it into flour before 
cutting rolls. Press a crease across each roll, using the handle 
of a small wooden spoon first dipped in flour; brush over one- 
half of each roll with melted butter, fold and press edges to- 



34 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

gether. Place on a buttered Russia sheet one and one-half 
inches apart, cover and set to rise. When light bake in a 
hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes. Five minutes before re- 
moving from the oven brush over with the white of an egg 
beaten slightly and diluted with two tablespoons cold milk. 
These folded rolls will part slightly in rising and if set to rise 
in too warm a place will rise too quickly and become unshapely. 
This same dough may be shaped in small balls of uniform size 
placed in rows on a floured board, covered and set to rise fifteen 
minutes. Then dip the handle of a wooden spoon in flour and 
press a deep wide crease in the center of each roll; brush the 
edges of the crease with melted butter. Place them in a but- 
tered pan or on a buttered Russia sheet one and one-half inches 
apart; cover and let finish rising. When light bake as Parker 
House Rolls. These rolls are called Cleft Rolls. 

CINNAMON ROLLS. 

2 cups scalded milk % cup sugar 

I Fleischmann's yeast cake i teaspoon salt 

dissolved in 4 tablespoons granulated 

Yz cup lukewarm water sugar 

3 eggs lightly beaten i^ teaspoon cinnamon 
Yi cup butter Flour 

Process: Prepare a sponge with the scalded milk; when 
lukewarm add two cups flour and dissolved yeast cake; beat 
thoroughly; cover and set to rise. When light add well beaten 
eggs, butter worked to a creamy consistency, sugar, salt and 
flour enough to knead (about six and one-half cups). Knead 
until smooth and elastic. Roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, 
spread generously with soft butter, sprinkle thickly with sugar 
and cinnamon, mixed and sifted. Roll like jelly roll; cut ofT 
slices one-half inch thick; set them close together, cut side 
down, in a buttered dripping pan. Brush between rolls with 
melted butter, cover and set to rise. When light, bake thirty 
minutes in a moderate oven; remove from oven and brush over 
with white of egg diluted with two tablespoons cOld milk. Return 
to oven to brown; repeat, to give them a glossy appearance. 



BREAD AND ROLLS 35 



BUTTER BUNS. 

2 cups scalded milk i Fleischmann's yeast cake 

3 tablespoons sugar dissolved in 

I teaspoonful salt % cup lukewarm water 

14 cup butter 3 eggs lightly beaten 

Flour 
Process: Prepare a sponge with scalded milk; when luke- 
warm add two cups flour and dissolved yeast cake; beat thor- 
oughly. Cover and set to rise in a warm place. When light, add 
sugar, salt and butter worked to a creamy consistency; eggs 
well beaten and flour enough to knead. Let rise again and when 
light knead slightly, and shape in small balls. Cover and set 
to rise until liglit. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Five 
minutes before removing from oven, brush over tops with 
egg and milk wash; return to oven to brown. Great care 
should be taken when making these buns not to use too much 
flour. 

QUAKER OATS BISCUIT. 
2 cups scalded milk ^ cup N. O. molasses 

I cup uncooked Quaker oats i Fleischmann's yeast cake 
% cup butter dissolved in 

lJ4 teaspoon salt J^ cup lukewarm water 

Equal parts white and entire wheat flour 
Process: Put oatmeal in mixing bowl; add scalded milk. 
Let stand five minutes, then add butter, salt and molasses. When 
lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake, flour, using about two 
and one-half cups of each kind, mixed and sifted. Beat thor- 
oughly and set to rise. When light beat again and fill very small 
buttered gem cups tAvo-thirds full. Let rise until moulds are full, 
then bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. 

MILK TOAST. 

Dilute three tablespoons of flour with cold water to make 
a thin, smooth paste. Add this slowly to two and one-half cups 
of scalded milk, in double boiler, stirring constantly until thick- 
ened. Cover and cook twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. 



36 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Season with salt and add two and one-half tablespoons butter. 
Dip six slices of toast, one at a time, into sauce. When soft 
remove to hot platter and strain remaining sauce over all. 

MARIGOLD TOAST. 

Follow recipe for Cream Toast. Arrange slices and sauce 
on hot serving platter. Slice the whites of hard cooked eggs 
in rings and arrange them around the rim of platter; put the 
yolks in a potato ricer and press them over the top of all. 
Sprinkle with paprika and serve at once. 

TOMATO CREAM TOAST. 

Melt three tablespoons butter in a sauce pan, add three table- 
spoons flour, three-fourths teaspoon salt and one-eighth tea- 
spoon paprika. Stir to a smooth paste and gradually add one 
and one-half cups of tomato, stewed and strained, to which 
one-fourth teaspoon soda has been added. Then add two-thirds 
cup of scalded cream. Dip slices of toast into sauce, and serve 
as milk toast. 

A dish of freshly grated Parmesan cheese may be passed 
with each portion of toast; a slight sprinkle is a great addition 
to this dish. 

GERMAN TOAST. 
3 eggs slightly beaten 2 tablespoons sugar 

Yz cup milk Yi teaspoon salt 

Stale bread 

Process: Cut stale bread in half inch slices; remove the 
crust. Dilute slightly beaten eggs with milk; add salt and 
sugar. Drop the slices of bread into egg mixture, allowing them 
to soak a few moments, then lift carefully with a spatula to a 
hot, well greased griddle, using equal parts of lard and butter. 
Brown on one side, turn and brown on the other. Add more 
lard and butter if necessary. Serve with maple syrup for break- 
fast or luncheon, or with apricot sauce for dessert. (See pud- 
ding sauces). Stale sponge cake may be used in the same man- 
ner. 



BREAD AND ROLLS 37 



DRY TOAST. 

Cut stale bread in one-third inch slices; remove the crust. 
Lay slices on the broiler some distance from the gas flame and 
toast the bread, turning often until it is evenly browned. If 
you stack the toast, one slice on top of the other, toast will soon 
become moist and tough. Toast may or may not be buttered 
before sending to the table. 



CHAPTER V. 



BISCUITS, BATTERS, ETC. 

BAKING POWDER BISCUITS. 

2 cups pastry flour J/2 teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoons baking powder 2 tablespoons butter or lard 

J4 cup milk or water 
Process: Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Add 
shortening and rub into flour with tips of fingers, using a light 
touch. Add milk or water, mix with a knife to a soft dough. 
Turn on a lightly floured board; knead slightly. Pat and roll to 
one-half inch thickness. Shape with small biscuit cutter. Place 
close together in a buttered pan and bake in a hot oven fifteen 
minutes. 

CREAM FRUIT ROLLS. 

2 cups pastry flour i tablespoon butter 

J-4 teaspoon salt i cup cream 

4 teaspoons bakmg powder Dates 

Process: Sift together flour, salt and baking powder; add 
shortening and rub in with tips of fingers. Add cream, mix 
with knife to a soft dough. Turn on a lightly floured board; 
pat and roll to one-third inch thickness. Cut with biscuit cut- 
ter, place one-half of a stoned date on half of biscuit, brush 
edges with milk and fold as Parker House Rolls. Press edges 
together, brush top of rolls with milk and place one-half date on 
top of each. Bake on a buttered sheet in a hot oven fifteen 

minutes. 

DUTCH APPLE CAKE. 

2 cups pastry flour 2 eggs 

Yi teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons melted butter 

3 teaspoons baking powder i cup milk 

3 tablespoons sugar Tart apples 

38 



BISCUITS, BATTERS, ETC. 39 

Process: Sift together flour, salt, baking powder and sugar. 
Beat the yolks of eggs thick and light; add to first mixture. 
Add melted butter and milk. Beat mixture thoroughly until 
smooth. Cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff and dry. 
Spread mixture into a buttered shallow pan to the depths of 
three-fourths inch. Pare, core and cut into eighths, tart apples. 
Press sharp edges into batter in two parallel rows. Sprinkle 
with sugar and cinnamon and bake in a hot oven twenty-five 
minutes. 

WHEAT MUFFINS. 

J/^ cup butter 4 teaspoons baking powder 

% cup sugar 2 cups flour 

•>4 cup thin cream or milk Yz teaspoon salt 

I egg beaten very light 
Process: Cream the butter with a wooden spoon. Add 
sugar gradually, then alternately cream and flour sifted with 
baking powder and salt. Add well beaten egg. Bake in hot 
well buttered gem cups. A cup of blueberries may be added 
to this mixture for blueberry tea cakes or one-fourth pound 
dates may be stoned, chopped and added to the butter and 
sugar for date muffins. 

GRAHAM MUFFINS. 

I cup Graham flour i cup milk 

I cup white flour i egg beaten very light 

J4 cup sugar or molasses i tablespoon butter 

I teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons baking powder 

Process: Sift together flours, sugar, salt and baking pow- 
der. Add milk gradually, egg beaten very light and melted but- 
ter. Beat mixture thoroughly. Bake in hot buttered iron gem 
cups twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. 

CORN MUFFINS. 

1 cup corn meal J/2 teaspoon salt 

I cup white flour i cup thin cream or milk 

4 teaspoons baking powder 2 eggs beaten very light 

J4 cup sugar 4 tablespoons melted butter 



40 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Process: Sift together corn meal, flour, baking powder, 
sugar and salt. Add cream and stir to a smooth batter. Add 
well beaten eggs and melted butter. Beat thoroughly and bake 
in hot buttered gem cups in a hot oven, twenty minutes. 

POPOVERS. 

I cup flour y^ cup milk 

% teaspoon salt }/i teaspoon melted butter 

2 eggs beaten very light 
Process: Sift flour and salt together, add milk gradually, 
beating continuously. Add melted butter and beaten eggs. Beat 
batter with a Dover egg beater three or four minutes until it 
is perfectly smooth, creamy and full of bubbles. Pour into 
hissing hot, well greased gem cups and bake in a hot oven 
thirty to thirty-five minutes. They may also be baked in earthen 
custard cups. When baked in the latter vessel they will have a 
glazed appearance. 

BATTER No. 2. 

I cup flour Ys cup milk 

^ teaspoon salt 2 eggs 

I tablespoon olive oil or melted butter. 
Process: Mix and sift flour and salt, add milk gradually, 
yolks of eggs beaten thick and light, add olive oil and cut 
and fold in the whites of the eggs beaten until stif¥ and dry. 

APPLE FRITTERS. 

I cup bread flour 2 teaspoons olive oil 

I tablespoon sugar White of one egg beaten stiflf 

J4 teaspoon salt and dry 

54 cup water Tart apples 

Process: Sift flour, salt and sugar, add water gradually, 
beating constantly. Add olive oil and beaten egg. Give batter 
a thorough beating, then core and pare tart apples, sprinkle 
with lemon juice and dredge thoroughly with sugar; let stand 
one hour. Drain and drop slices into batter; fry in deep, hot 
fat. Drain on brown paper, dredge lightly with powdered sugar 
and serve with lemon sauce. Other fruits may be used in place 
of apples. 



BISCUITS, BATTERS, ETC. 41 



SOUR MILK GRIDDLE CAKES. 

2J/2 cups flour 2 cups rich sour milk 

1 teaspoon salt 1% teaspoon soda 

I egg lightly beaten 
Process: Mix and sift flour, salt and soda. Add sour milk 
and beat to a smooth batter. Add well beaten egg; continue 
beating until ingredients are thoroughly blended. Batter should 
be smooth and creamy. Drop by spoonsful on well greased 
hot griddle. Cook on one side and when light and covered with 
bubbles, turn and cook on the other side. 

WAFFLES. 

3!/^ cups flour 2 cups milk 

2 tablespoons baking powder Yolks 4 eggs 
I teaspoon salt Whites 4 eggs 

2 tablespoons melted butter. 
Process: Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk gradually, 
beating constantly. Add butter, yolks of eggs well beaten and 
whites of eggs beaten stiflf. Beat mixture thoroughly. Cook 
in a well greased hot waffle iron, browning first on one side, 
then turn iron and brown on the other. Serve with maple 
or lemon syrup. 

APRICOT DUMPLINGS. 

2 cups pastry flour i tablespoon butter or lard 

Yz teaspoon salt i cup thin cream 

4 teaspoons baking powder Apricots 

Process: Sift together flour, salt and baking powder. Rub 
shortening in with tips of fingers. Add cream, mixing with a 
knife to a soft dough. Turn on a floured board; pat and roll 
to one-fourth inch thickness. Shape with a biscuit cutter three 
inches in diameter. Place two halves of canned apricots in 
each, enclose them, pressing edges of dough together. Shape 
dumpling in a ball by rolling between the hands lightly. Place 
in a buttered granite dripping pan two inches apart. Sift around 
them one cup granulated sugar, add two cups cold water to 
apricot liquor and pour around dumplings. Bake in a hot 
oven twenty minutes, basting three times. Apples or peaches 



42 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

may be used in place of apricots. Serve with Hard, Apricot or 
Creamy Sauce. 

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE. 

2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking powder 

54 teaspoon salt i tablespoon butter or lard 

I cup thin cream 
Process: Sift together flour, salt and baking powder. Rub 
shortening in with tips of fingers. Add cream, mix with a 
knife to a soft dough. Turn on a floured board, knead slightly 
and divide the dough into two equal parts. Pat and roll each 
piece to one-half inch thickness; lay one piece in a buttered 
jelly cake pan, brush over with soft butter and place remaining 
piece on top. Bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Rem.ove 
from oven; invert cake on a hot serving platter. Remove bot- 
tom layer, which is now the top. Spread with soft butter and 
add a layer of berries prepared as directed hereafter. Sift gen- 
erously with bar sugar, replace remaining cake, cover with ber- 
ries, sprinkle with sugar, mask with whipped cream sweetened 
and flavored with orange extract. 

STRAWBERRY MIXTURE. 

Wash two quarts strawberries; hull and cut each berry in 
half. Prepare a syrup by boiling together 2 cups sugar and one- 
half cup water four minutes. Pour syrup while hot over berries 
and let stand an hour or more before using. Lift the berries 
from syrup and place between layer and on top of shortcake. 
Strain syrup into a pitcher or bowl and pass with each portion 
of shortcake. In this way the shortcake docs not become soaked 
with the juice and is very much more delicate. 

DOUGHNUTS. 

I cup sugar lYz teaspoons soda 

3 tablespoons butter >4 teaspoon nutmeg 

\]/4 cup sour cream or butter- ]/> teaspoon salt 
milk 5 cups flour 

3 eggs 



BISCUITS, BATTERS, ETC. 43 

Process: Beat eggs very light without separating, add sugar 
gradually, soft butter and sour cream alternately with flour 
previously sifted with soda, salt and nutmeg. Chill the dough 
thoroughly. Shape with a cutter and fry in deep, hot fat. This 
mixture may be made in the evening, covered closely, placed 
in the refrigerator over night, shape and fry them in the morning. 



CHAPTER VI. 



CEREALS. 

HASTY PUDDING. 
(Corn Meal Mush.) 

Put one quart boiling ^vater in the top of double boiler. 
Add two and one-half teaspoons salt. Mix two cups yellow or 
white corn meal with two cups of cold milk or one cup each 
water and milk. Stir; add slowly to boiling water. Boil five 
minutes, stirring constantly; place vessel over hot water and 
let cook three to five hours, stirring occasionally to prevent 
mush from lumping. The longer it steams the more delicious 
the flavor. Serve with milk or cream. If white and yellow corn 
meal is made into Hasty Pudding in separate vessels, then 
packed in alternate layers in a brick shape mould, chilled and 
then sliced and served with cream, it makes a very attractive 
dish that might serve in an emergency as a dessert. 

FRIED MUSH. 

Prepare mush as in the foregoing recipe. Pack solidly in a wet 
granite brick shape bread pan. When cold, turn on meat board 
and cut in three-quarter inch slices. Dip in flour and fry — or fry 
without dredging with flour. Brown richly on one side; then 
turn and brown on the other. These pieces may be dipped 
in egg and fine cracker crumbs and fried in deep, hot fat. Serve 
with crisp bacon. 

QUAKER OATS MUSH. 

Stir slowly one part Quaker oats into two parts boiling 
salted water. Boil two minutes rapidly, stirring constantly, 
then cook in double boiler one hour or more. Serve with cream 
or milk. 

BOILED RICE. 

I cup rice 2 quarts boiling water 

134 tablespoons salt 
44 



CEREALS 



45 



Process: Put two or three quarts water in a sauce-pan, add 
one and one-fourth tablespoons salt. Add washed rice slowly, 
so as not to retard the boiling process. Cook very rapidly in 
an uncovered vessel until the grains are soft. It may be nec- 
cessary to add more water. When rice is tender, drain; return 
to vessel in which it was cooked, cover with a clean tea towel, 
remove to back of range to dry. Rice prepared in this way 
may be served as a hot vegetable or used as a rice border. 

RICE WITH PARSLEY OR CHIVES. 
Cook one cup of washed rice in two quarts of boiling salted 
water until tender, add one-fourth cup butter, one-half table- 
spoon of finely chopped parsley and chives; toss lightly together 
and serve as a vegetable. 

MACARONI WITH CHEESE SAUCE. 

Yz package macaroni broken in i onion 

pieces i tablespoon salt 

2^ quarts boiling water i tablespoon butter 

6 cloves 

Process: Put butter in large sauce-pan; add onions stuck with 

cloves, boiling water, salt and macaroni; let cook until tender 

(about twenty minutes) remove onion. Drain and blanch; re-heat 

in cheese sauce (see chapter on savory sauces for meats, etc.). 

SPAGHETTI WITH TOMATOES. 

Cook one onion stuck with four cloves, two tablespoons but- 
ter and one-half package spaghetti broken in inch pieces, in 
two and one-half quarts boiling salted water until spaghetti 
is soft. Remove onion. Butter a baking dish and add alternate 
layers spaghetti and highly seasoned tomato puree, sprinkle 
each layer of spaghetti with grated parmesan cheese, salt, a 
few grains caj^enne and grated onion. Cover with buttered 
crumbs and bake in the oven until mixture is heated through 
and crumbs are browned. 



CHAPTER VII. 



EGGS. 

SOFT AND HARD COOKED EGGS. 

Put boiling water into a sauce-pan, then carefully add the de- 
sired number of eggs, using a spoon for this purpose. Place 
sauce-pan on an asbestos sheet, over the simmer burner where 
the water will not boil. Cook from eight to ten minutes if liked 
soft; forty to forty-five minutes if well done or "hard boiled." 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

5 eggs slightly beaten yg, teaspoon pepper 

1/2 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup milk 

I ^2 tablespoons butter 
Process: Melt butter in a sauce-pan. When bubbling add 
eggs, salt, pepper and milk thoroughly blended. Cook until of 
a creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from the bottom and 
sides of the pan, using a fork for this purpose. When suffi- 
ciently cooked, scrape gently to the side of the pan, roll on a 
hot serving platter and garnish with shredded bacon. Sprinkle 
with paprika and serve at once. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH DRIED BEEF. 

5 eggs 1/3 cup milk 

^2 teaspoon salt i cup minced dried beef 

% teaspoon pepper i^ tablespoons butter 

Process: Beat eggs slightly with a silver fork; add salt, 
pepper, milk and dried beef. Melt butter in a well heated omelet 
pan; turn in the mixture. Cook until of a creamy consistency, 
stirring and scraping from bottom of pan. 

FRIED EGGS. 

Pan broil thin slices of bacon. When bacon is crisp remove 
to serving platter. Break the desired number of eggs one 

46 



EGGS 47 

at a time in a saucer and slip carefully into the bacon fat. 
Add boiling water to cover. Cover pan closely and steam until 
whites of eggs are firm. Remove carefully with a skimmer to 
serving platter. Sprinkle delicately with salt and pepper. Serve 
immediately with bacon. 

POACHED EGGS. 

Fill an omelet pan two-thirds full of boiling salted water or 
well seasoned white stock. Allow one and one-half teaspoons 
salt to a quart of water. Butter muffin rings and place in the 
water. Break the desired number of eggs separately in a 
cup and slip them carefully into the muffin rings. The water 
should cover the eggs. When the whites are solid and a 
film has covered the yolk, remove carefully with a buttered 
skimmer, one at a time, and place them on circular pieces of 
buttered toast. Place a dot of butter on each egg, sprinkle 
lightly with salt and pepper and serve immediately. 

EGGS A LA CALCUTTA. 
Arrange a border of steamed rice on a hot serving platter, 
leaving a nest in center. Slice six hard cooked eggs; dispose 
in the nest, and pour over one cup of thin, white sauce, to 
which is added one cup Edam cheese cut in small pieces. Sea- 
son highly with salt and cayenne, sprinkle all lightly with 
paprika. It will require one and one-half cups rice for the 
border. 

DEVILED EGGS. 

I dozen eggs '/2 cup cold boiled chicken or 

3 tablespoons olive oil ham, finely chopped 

I tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons French or German 

mustard 
Salt and cayenne 
Process: Put eggs in a sauce-pan, cover with hot water, 
bring to boiling point, then reduce heat. Simmer forty-five min- 
utes, keeping water just below the boiling point. Drain from 
hot water, remove shells, cut them in halves lengthwise, remove 
yolks and rub to a smooth paste with olive oil; add lemon juice. 



48 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

mustard, chicken, salt and cayenne. Roll this mixture in balls 
the original size of the yolks and replace in halves of the 
whites. Arrange three halves in individual nests of head let- 
tuce leaves, and serve with Mayonnaise or boiled salad dressing. 

FRENCH OMELETTE. 
4 eggs slightly beaten i teaspoon salt 

4 tablespoons milk ^ teaspoon pepper 

2 tablespoons butter 
Process: To slightly beaten eggs, add milk, salt and pepper. 
Melt butter in a hot omelette pan. Turn in egg mixture and 
let cook until slightly thickened. Then prick and pick up 
cooked portion with a fork, allowing the uncooked mixture to 
flow underneath. Continue this method until the whole is of a 
creamy consistency. Place over the gas flame and allow the 
omelette to brown delicately; use great care that it does not 
scorch. Roll and turn on a hot platter. 

PLAIN OMELET. 

Yolks 4 eggs P'ew grains pepper 

Whites 4 eggs 4 tablespoons hot water 

Yz teaspoon salt i>4 tablespoons butter 

Process: Beat yolks of eggs thick and light, add salt and 
pepper; beat whites stiff and dry. Add hot water to yolks of 
eggs, then cut and fold in whites of eggs. Melt butter in a 
hot omelet pan, turn in mixture and spread evenly. Let cook 
on top of range slowly until well pufifed, turning the omelet 
pan carefully that it may rise evenly. When well pufifed place 
on the center grate of the gas oven and finish cooking. The 
omelet is cooked if it is firm to the touch when lightly pressed 
with the fingers. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



SOUPS AND SOUP GARNISHINGS. 

BROWN SOUP STOCK. 

6 pounds shin of beef i sprig marjoram 

3 quarts cold water 2 sprigs parsley 

44 teaspoon pepper corns Carrot ) , 

01 n \^^ \ ^i cup each 

8 cloves Celery \ ^^ . ,. 

,, , 1 r -r ;.^ I '^ut m dice 

I small bay leaf Turnip j 

3 sprigs thyme i medium-sized onion sliced 

iJ4 tablespoons salt 
Process: Remove beef from paper immediately when 
brought from the market. Wipe with a piece of cheese cloth 
wrung from cold water. Remove meat from bone and cut in 
inch cubes. Brown one-third of the meat in a hot frying pan in 
the marrow taken from the marrow bone. Put remaining two- 
thirds with bone and fat in stock pot. Add water and let stand 
thirty minutes. Place over simmer burner; add the browned 
meat and bring gradually to the boiling point. Let boil five 
minutes. Skim. Cover and simmer six hours, being careful to 
keep below the boiling point. Add vegetables and seasoning the 
last hour of cooking. Strain, cool, and clear. 

CONSOMME. 
3 pounds of the middle cut 2J/2 tablespoons butter 
of the round iJ4 teaspoons salt 

lYi pounds marrow bone i teaspoon pepper corns 

3 pounds knuckle of veal 6 cloves 

Carrot ") 3 sprigs thyme 

Turnip ( ^ ^."P f.^^" i sprig marjoram 

Celery j ^"^ '" ^'^^ 3 sprigs parsley 

I small onion sliced i small bay leaf 

Cold water to cover 

49 



50 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Process: Wipe meat with a piece of cheese cloth wrung 
from cold water. Cut meat in inch cubes. Brown one-half 
in some of the marrow taken from the marrow bone. Put re- 
maining half in stock pot with cold water (about three quarts). 
Add veal cut in inch cubes. Add browned meat and bones. 
Let stand 30 minutes. Place on range and bring slowly to 
boiling point. Let simmer 4 hours. Skim when necessary. 
Cook vegetables in butter five minutes; add to soup with re- 
maining seasonings. Simmer one hour, strain, cool, remove fat 
and clear. A quart of liquor in which a fowl was cooked, 
strained and cleared, may be added to this soup and will en- 
rich it. 

VEGETABLE SOUP. 

To six cups of consomme add one-half cup each string 
beans, cut in diamonds; carrots cut in small straws; green peas; 
turnips, cut in small cubes; celery cut in very small pieces; 
one-fourth cup diced onion. These vegetables should be sim- 
mered in salt water until tender, drained and added to the hot 

consomme. 

CONSOMME AU PARMESAN. 

Consomme served with Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, 

placed in a dainty dish and passed with each portion of soup. 

A dessert spoonful is sprinkled lightly over the top of the hot 

consomme. 

CONSOMME WITH NOODLES. 

To six cups of consomme add noodles and one-half table- 
spoon finely chopped parsley. Noodles should be first cooked 
in boiling salted water, drained and added to hot consomme. 

CONSOMME DUCHESS. 

Consomme served with meringue prepared as follows: 
Beat the whites of eggs very stiff and drop by heaping table- 
spoonful into milk heated to scalding point, in a shallow ves- 
sel. Great care should be taken that the milk does not scorch. 
It should be heated over hot water. Cook meringues first on one 
side; then turn and cook on the other until done, which may 
be determined by touching lightly with the fingers. If under- 



SOUPS, AND SOUP GARNISHINGS 51 

done, it will cling to the fingers. Float one of these individual 
meringues on the top of each portion of consomme. Sprinkle 
lightly with finely chopped parsley. Serve in bouillion cups. 

CREAM OF CORN SOUP. 

I can corn finely chopped 2 teaspoons sugar 

I pint boiling water 2 tablespoons butter 

I pint scalded milk 2 tablespoons flour 

I slice onion i teaspoon salt 

}^ teaspoon white pepper 
Process: Chop corn very fine; add boiling water and cook 
slowly twenty minutes. Scald onion with milk in double boiler. 
Remove onion and add milk to corn; add sugar. Melt 
butter in sauce-pan, add flour and stir to a smooth paste. Add 
enough of the first mixture to the flour and butter to the con- 
sistency to pour. Combine the two mixtures; add seasonings. 
Beat thoroughly with a wire whip. Keep hot over hot water 

until served. 

MOCK BISQUE SOUP. 

I quart scalded milk % teaspoon soda 

I slice onion H cup butter 
4 tablespoons flour i teaspoon salt 

1 can tomatoes % teaspoon pepper 

2 teaspoons sugar 4 or 5 drops Tabasco sauce 

Process: Scald onion with milk. Remove onion and thicken 
milk with flour diluted with cold water to pour. (There should 
be no lumps in flour paste.) Cook twenty minutes in a double 
boiler, stirring constantly at first, afterwards occasionally. Put 
tomatoes in a sauce-pan and cook until moisture is well driven 
off. There should be two cups of pulp. Rub through puree 
strainer; add sugar and soda. Add the tomato mixture to the 
thickened milk, then strain into hot soup tureen over butter, 
salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce. 

SCOTCH POTATO SOUP. 

I bunch leeks or 2 cups Salt, cayenne pepper 

sliced onions 1^2 quarts scalded milk 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



I cup celery cut in small 3 cups potatoes cut in half-inch 

pieces dice 

4>4 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons butter 

3 tablespoons flour 
Process: Slice leeks or onions. Mix with celery and cook 
in two and one-half tablespoons butter six minutes, tossing 
constantly. Add to scalded milk, and cook forty-five minutes. 
Cook potato ten minutes in boiling salted water. Drain. Put 
remaining butter in sauce-pan, add two tablespoons flour, stir 
to a smooth paste and dilute with some of the milk taken from 
the vegetables. Combine with milk and vegetables; add po- 
tatoes; cover, and cook until potatoes are tender. Season with 
salt, pepper and a few grains cayenne. 

OYSTER STEW. 

1 quart oysters li cup butter 
4 cups scalded milk Salt 

2 stalks celery cut in pieces Pepper 

Process: Turn oysters into strainer and clean them by pour- 
ing over one cup cold water. Pick over carefully with the fin- 
gers to remove any bits of shell that may adhere to oysters. 
Reserve liquor and bring to boiling point. Strain through 
double cheese cloth laid in strainer. Scald milk with celery. 
Remove celery and add oyster liquor to milk. Put oysters in an 
omelet pan and cook until plump and gills are curled. Re- 
mo v-e oysters with skimmer to hot soup tureen. Add butter, 
salt and pepper. Strain the oj^ster liquor obtained from oysters 
into milk. Then strain milk mixture over oysters. Serve im- 
mediately. 

PUREE OF PEAS. 

1 can marrowfat peas 2 tablespoons butter 
i^ teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons flour 

2 cups cold water i teaspoon salt 

2 cups milk 14 teaspoon white pepper 

I slice onion J^ cup hot cream 

Process: Drain peas from their liquor; add cold water and 
sugar and cook until tender (about twenty minutes). Rub 



SOUPS, AND SOUP GARNISHINGS 53 

through puree strainer. Place pulp in sauce-pan and thicken 
with butter and flour cooked together. Great care must be 
taken that the mixture does not scorch. Scald milk with onion, 
remove onion and add milk to first mixture. Season with salt 
and pepper. Add cream; whipped with a wire whisk until in- 
gredients are thoroughly blended. If not served immediately, 
keep hot over hot water. 

CORN CHOWDER. 

1 can corn or 2 cups freshly i large slice onion 

grated corn 4 cups scalded milk 

4 cups potato cut in one-third Yz dozen Boston crackers 

inch dice J/2 tablespoon salt 

2 inch cubes fat salt pork Y^ teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons butter 
Process: Cut pork in small pieces; try out. Remove scraps, 
add onion and cook without browning five minutes, stirring con- 
stantly. Strain fat into a stew pan. Parboil potatoes five minutes 
in boiling salted water to cover. Drain, add potatoes to fat, 
then add two cups boiling water, cook until potatoes are tender. 
Add corn and scalded milk, bring to boiling point, season with 
salt and pepper; add butter. Split the crackers and allow them 
to soak in just enough milk to moisten. Remove crackers with 
skimmer, turn chowder into hot tureen and place the crackers 
on top. When milk and corn is added to the first mixture in 
bringing to the boiling point be careful that milk does not scorch. 

CRISP CRACKERS. 

Spread Saltines very thinly with butter, using one-eighth 
teaspoon to each cracker. Place in dripping pan and bake until 
a delicate brown, in a hot oven. 

CRACKERS WITH CHEESE. 

Place Saltines or Saratoga Wafers in a dripping pan. 
Sprinkle generously with grated cheese seasoned with salt and 
a few grains cayenne. Bake until cheese is melted. 



54 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



CHEESE STICKS. 

Cut stale bread in one-third inch slices, remove crust and 
spread thinly with butter; then cut slices into one-half inch 
strips. Sprinkle thickly with grated cheese seasoned with salt 
and a few grains cayenne. Place in dripping pan and bake 
until cheese is toasted. 

CROUTONS. 

Cut stale bread into one-third inch slices. Trim off the 
crust and spread thinly with butter. Cut slices into one-third 
inch cubes; place in dripping pan and bake until delicately 
browned in a hot oven. Or these cubes may be fried a golden 
brown in deep, hot fat; drain on brown paper and sprinkle 
lightly with salt before serving. 

NOODLES. 

1 egs Yi teaspoon salt Flour 

Process: Beat egg slightly, add salt and sufficient flour 
to make a stiff dough. Knead until smooth on a slightly 
floured board. Roll as thin as paper. Cover sheet of dough 
with a towel and set away for fifteen or twenty minutes. Roll 
like a jelly roll and cut in thin slices with a sharp knife. Unroll 
each slice; shake them out over the board and let dry. Add 
to consomme or beef broth; simmer twenty minutes. A sprink- 
ling of finely chopped parsley is considered an addition to the 
soup or when noodles are served as a vegetable. 



CHAPTER IX. 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 

BAKED WHITEFISH. 

Clean a four-pound whitefish or lake trout. Sprinkle with 
salt inside; stuff with oyster stuffing. Truss. Cut five diagonal 
incisions on eitlier side of backbone and lay in each a strip of 
fat salt pork. Incisions on one side should come between in- 
cisions on the other. Fish may be skewered in the form of 
the letter "S" to give it a graceful appearance, or placed on a 
well greased fish sheet in its natural position. Sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, brush over generously with melted butter, dredge 
with flour, and surround with small pieces of fat salt pork. Bake 
one hour in a hot oven, basting every ten minutes. After the 
first half hour the heat of the oven should be slowly reduced. 
The time for reducing the heat of the oven should be governed 
by the color of the fish. It should be allowed to brown evenly. 

OYSTER STUFFING. 

I cup cracker crumbs 3'2 tablespoon finely chopped 

Y-i teaspoon salt parsley 

y% teaspoon pepper 5 tablespoons melted butter 

Yz tablespoon lemon juice i cup oysters 

4 tablespoons oyster liquor 
Process: Clean oysters and remove the tough muscle. 
Strain the liquor. Crush crackers moderately, season with salt, 
pepper, lemon juice; add parsley. Mix well; add oysters and 
oyster liquor. 

PLANKED WHITEFISH. 

Clean, wipe and split a three-pound whitefish, trim into 
shape; and place skin side down, on a hot, well greased oak 
fish plank one and one-half inches thick and two inches longer 
and wider than the fish. Brush over with melted butter. Sur- 

55 



56 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

round fish with a border of coarse salt to prevent plank from 
burning. Broil twenty minutes under the gas flame. Remove 
from oven, scrape ofif the salt border. Spread fish with melted 
butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Surround with a bor- 
der made from potatoes forced through the pastry bag and rose 
tube. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve fish on the 
plank placed on a large platter. There is no greater convenience 
for preparing planked foods than the gas range. 

FRIED FISH. 

Clean small fish, skin and sprinkle with salt, pepper and 
dredge with flour. Be sure they are entirely covered with 
flour. Dip in egg and cracker crumbs; place in croquette basket 
and fry in deep, hot fat slowly, until richly browned and cooked 
through. Drain on soft paper and serve with Maitre d' Hotel 
Butter, Sauce Tartare, HoUandaise or Tartar Sauce. Garnish 
with lemon slices and parsley. 

FISH SAUTE. 

Follow above recipe for preparing fish, or use corn meal in- 
stead of cracker crumbs. Cook in hot iron skillet in a small 
quantity of hot salt pork fat. If portions of fish are thin it will 
require from ten to twelve minutes; if thick fifteen to twenty 
minutes. The length of time for cooking fish does not always 
depend upon the size and weight of the fish as upon the amount 
of surface exposed to the hot fat. They should be browned 
richly in the first part of the process, then the heat reduced, 
and cooked the required length of time. 

BROILED FINNAN HADDIE. 

Select carefully a thick fish. Wipe with a piece of cheese 
cloth wrung from cold water. Brush fish over with melted 
butter. Place on a well greased broiler and broil until both 
sides are browned. Remove from broiler to dripping pan, cover 
with boiling water, let stand in the oven or on back of range 
where water will not boil fifteen or twenty minutes. Drain 
and place on hot serving platter and spread with Maitre d'Hotel 
Butter. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. 



FISH, OYSTERS. ETC. 57 



BROILED SALT MACKEREL. 

Wash thoroughly a carefully selected salt mackerel. Put 
to soak skin side up in water to cover over night. Drain and 
dry with a crash towel. Brush over with melted butter or olive 
oil and broil in a well greased broiler, skin side down. Baste 
twice with melted butter or oil. Remove to hot serving plat- 
ter and pour over one-half cup hot thin cream. Sprinkle with 
pepper and finely chopped parsley. Serve with steamed or 
baked potatoes. 

SALT MACKEREL COOKED IN MILK. 

In selecting a salt mackerel endeavor to find one that is not 
too fat and the flesh thick. Soak mackerel, skin side up, 
in cold water to cover, over night. In the morning drain and 
place in a granite dripping pan that it may lay flat. Cover with 
fresh sweet milk. Be sure milk is fresh, as the salt may curdle it. 
Let simmer very slowly on back of range or in a moderate oven 
twenty-to twenty-five minutes. Drain from milk, place on hot 
servmg platter, spread with soft butter. A small quantity of the 
milk may be strained over fish; if desired a thin white sauce may 
be made of this milk. Serve with baked, boiled or steamed po- 
tatoes. 

FISH CROQUETTES. 

2 cups cold cooked fish Ys teaspoon pepper 

^4 cup Thick White Sauce Yi teaspoon finely chopped 

l/i teaspoon salt parsley 

1 teaspoon lemon juice 
Process: Flake fish with a silver fork; add seasonings and 
sauce. Spread on plate to cool. Shape and roll in cracker 
crumbs, egg and crumbs and fry in deep hot fat. Drain on 
brown paper; serve with Egg, Hollandaise or Tartare Sauce. 
Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. 

TURBAN OF FISH. 

2j4 cups cold baked or boiled 4 tablespoons butter 

fish Yolks 2 eggs 

ij^ cups scalded milk 4 tablespoons flour 



58 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

I slice onion % teaspoon salt 

I blade mace or a few ^ teaspoon pepper 

grains nutmeg i teaspoon lemon juice 

I spray parsley 34 cup cracker crumbs 

Process: Scald milk with onion, mace and parsley. Melt 
butter in a sauce-pan, add flour, salt and pepper. Remove sea- 
soning from milk; add milk gradually, stirring constantly. Re- 
move sauce to back of range, add yolks slightly beaten. Butter 
a baking dish; add a layer of fish, sprinkle with salt, pepper 
and a few drops lemon juice. Cover with part of sauce; con- 
tinue until both fish and sauce are used, shaping pyramid-like 
in center. Cover with crumbs and bake twenty minutes in hot 
oven. Serve at once. 

COD FISH BALLS. 

Wash salted cod fish in cold water; pick up in small bits. 
There should be one cup of fish packed solidly. Cover with 
cold water and allow to soak an hour or two. Wash and pare 
potatoes; cut them in small pieces. There should be two and 
one-half cups of potatoes. Drain fish from cold water, mix with 
potatoes and cook together in boiling water to cover until po- 
tatoes are soft. Drain through sieve and return to sauce-pan 
in which they were cooked. Mash; add one-half tablespoon 
butter, one egg well beaten, seasoned with pepper, and salt, if 
necessary. Beat mixture very light with a fork. Drop by 
rounded tablespoonsful into the croquette basket and fry one 
minute in hot fat Drain on brown paper and serve. 

SALMON LOAF. 
I can salmon J4 cup cream 

1 tablespoon butter Yz tablespoon finely chopped 

2 eggs lightly beaten parsley 

J4 cup fine bread crumbs " i teaspoon lemon j'.iice 
Salt, cayenne-pepper 
Process: Drain salmon from the liquor; reserve liquor. Re- 
move skin and bones. Rub fish to a smooth paste with melted 
butter Add bread crumbs, cream, parsley and lightly beaten 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 59 

eggs. Season with salt and cayenne. Mix thoroughly and press 
mixture into a well greased decorated fish mould, or into an 
agate brick shaped bread pan. Cover mould with buttered paper, 
buttered side down. Place in a steamer and cook twenty-five 
minutes. Remove from mould and serve with Salmon Sauce. 

SALMON SAUCE. 

Strained salmon liquor i teaspoon corn starch 

I tablespoon melted butter 5 tablespoons tomato catsup 

Yi cup milk Salt and pepper 

Process: Add melted butter to strained salmon liquor. Add 
milk and bring these ingredients to the boiling point. Dilute 
corn starch with two tablespoons cold milk, adding to first mix- 
ture slowly, stirring constantly until smooth and glossy. Add 
tomato catsup, salt and pepper. Beat well with a wire whisk 
and pour around Salmon Loaf. 

CODFISH IN CREAM SAUCE. 

Pick scalded salt codfish in very small bits; there should be 
two cups. Cover with cold water and let soak several hours; 
drain, and press out the water. Scald two cups milk in a double 
boiler; when scalded thicken with four tablespoons flour, 
diluted with five tablespoons milk; add a few grains white pep- 
per, and salt if necessary; stir mixture constantly to avoid 
lumps. Let cook twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Re-heat 
codfish in sauce; just before serving stir in two eggs slightly 
beaten and serve immediately. 

OYSTER COCKTAIL. 

2 dozen Blue Points 2 tablespoons lemon juice 

I tablespoon finely grated i tablespoon vinegar 

horseradish 4 tablespoons tomato catsup 

lYi tablespoons Worcester- J/2 teaspoon salt 

shire sauce Few grains cayenne or 

Few drops Tabasco sauce 
Process: Clean oysters and place them in a strainer. Chill. 
Mix thoroughly horseradish, vinegar, lemon juice, Worchester- 



6o THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

shire sauce, tomato catsup, salt and Tabasco. Chill. Place 
five oysters either in a cocktail glass, lemon, orange or tomato 
cups. Cover generously with sauce, or oysters may be placed 
on the half shell on a bed of crushed ice and cocktail mixture 
placed in either one of the above named receptacles and served 
in this fashion. Little neck clams may be substituted for oysters. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 

I quart select oysters 2 tablespoons oyster liquor 

J/2 cup melted butter 2 tablespoons milk or cream 

I cup cracker crumbs Slight grating of lemon peel' 

ij^ cup bread crumbs Salt and pepper 

Process: Melt the butter in a sauce-pan, add to bread and 
cracker crumbs well mixed. Toss lightly with a fork. Sprinkle 
the bottom of buttered baking dish with buttered crumbs and 
cover with a layer of oysters. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and 
a slight grating of lemon peel. Add one tablespoon each of 
oyster liquor and milk. Cover with more crumbs. Repeat 
and cover top with buttered crumbs. Bake twenty minutes 
in a hot oven. Garnish with toast points and parsley. More 
moisture may be added if necessary. 

OYSTER PIE. 

Cover an inverted deep pie pan with rich pastry, rolled to 
one-eighth inch thickness; prick with a fork all over, that it 
may rise evenly while baking. Place pie pan on a baking sheet 
to prevent the edges from touching the bottom of the oven. 
Shape a cover one-quarter inch thick, a little larger than the top 
of pie pan, as it will probably shrink a trifle in baking. Place 
on Russia sheet. Chill and then bake about twenty minutes. 
When done, remove paste from dish, and set in place on the 
serving dish. Fill with a quart of oysters drained, plumped in 
their own liquor. Re-heat in i>2 cup hot cream sauce, highly 
seasoned with salt, pepper, celery salt, or a few grains of nut- 
meg. Place cover on pie. Garnish serving platter with parsley 
and serve. May be served as the fish course. 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 6i 



CREAMED OYSTERS. 

Pick over, wash and clean one quart of oysters. Reserve 
the liquor. Put liquor into a sauce-pan, bring to boiling point 
strain. Plump the oysters and put them into a warm sauce- 
pan. Melt four tablespoons butter in a sauce-pan; and add four 
tablespoons flour, one cup oyster liquor, one cup thin hot cream 
or milk. Stir until smooth and glossy. Season well with salt, 
pepper, a few grains of nutmeg or celerj' salt. Pour over hot 
oysters and serve in puff paste patty shells, or crustades of 
bread. 

FRIED FROGS' LEGS. 

Trim and clean the desired number of frogs' legs. Make a 
small incision near the foot and draw the opposite foot through 
this incision. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; dredge with flour, 
dip in egg, fine cracker crumbs and fry four minutes in deep 
hot fat. Drain on brown paper and serve with Sauce Tartare. 

FRIED SOFT SHELLED CRABS. 
Clean crabs; remove sand bag and spongy substances under 
the soft shell. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; dredge with flour, 
dip in egg and fine cracker crumbs. Place in croquette basket; 
fry in deep hot fat until richlj' browned. Drain on soft brown 
paper. Fry one at a time unless very small. They should be 
turned once while cooking. Serve with Sauce Tartare. 



CHAPTER X. 



MEATS. 

BEEF STEW WITH DUMPLINGS. 

3 lbs. beef from round, chuck Cold water 

or flank with bones. i onion sliced 

4 cups potatoes cut in ^-inch % cup flour 

slices 2 small red pepper pods 

Carrot \ M cups each Salt, pepper 

Turnip j cut in i-inch cubes 

Process: Wipe meat and bones with a piece of cheese cloth 
wrung from cold water. Remove meat from bones cut in 2 
inch cubes, sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. 
Remove some of the marrow from the bone or cut some of the 
fat in small dice; try it out in frying pan; remove scraps, add 
meat, toss and turn it constantly until richly browned all over. 
Remove to kettle and rinse frying-pan with boiling water to 
retain all the meat juices; add to meat; add remaining fat and 
bones sawed or broken in pieces. Cover with boiling water; 
boil five minutes; skim; reduce heat and let simmer until meat 
is tender (3 to 4 hours). Add carrots, turnip, onion and pepper 
pods the last hour of cooking. Parboil potatoes five minutes 
and add to stew fifteen minutes before removing from range. 
Remove fat and bones; skim again if necessary. Dilute flour 
with enough cold water to pour; add to stew, stirring constantly 
but gently until liquor is thickened. Turn into a deep hot serv- 
ing platter; surround with dumplings; sprinkle all with finely 
chopped parsley or paprika. 

DUMPLINGS FOR BEEF STEW. 

2 cups flour Yz teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoons baking powder Yz tablespoon butter 
54 cup milk 
62 



MEATS 63 

Process: Sift dry ingredients together; rub in butter with 
tips of fingers; add milk gradually, using a knife for mixing; 
drop from tip of spoon close together on top of stew. Cover 
kettle with a crash towel, place on cover and steam fifteen 
minutes. 

RIB ROAST OF BEEF. 

Select the first five or the first two ribs of the fore quarter; 
bone and roll it, having the string surround it several times, 
or use skewers; rub with salt, sprinkle with pepper and dredge 
with fiour. Try out some of the fat in a skillet; when very hot, 
sear roast over entire surface, turn often until browned; place 
on rack in dripping pan; add dripping, sprinkle again with 
flour and when flour is brown, reduce heat and baste with drip- 
ping in pan every ten minutes. Allow one hour and ten minutes 
for a five-pound roast if liked rare; if well done, one and one- 
half hours. 

BROILED STEAK. 

Wipe steak with a piece of cheese cloth wrung from cold 
water. Trim off superfluous fat. Remove bone and skewer 
meat together. Grease thoroughly the broiler with some of the 
fat; place meat on broiler and broil under the gas flame, turning 
every ten seconds for the first two or three minutes of cooking 
to sear surface well over, thus preventing the escape of juices. 
After which reduce heat and turn occasionally until richly 
browned on both sides. Steaks one inch thick will require 
from eight to ten minutes if preferred rare, twelve to fifteen 
minutes if well done. Steaks two to two and one-half inches 
thick will require from fifteen to eighteen minutes for cook- 
ing if liked rare; if well done tvv'cnt}' minutes. Remove to hoc 
serving platter; sprinkle with salt, pepper; spread with butter 
or Maitre d' Hotel Butter. 

HAMBURG STEAK. 

1 pound round steak ^ teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons grated onion ]/$ teaspoon pepper 

White of one egg. 



64 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Process: Remove superflous fat and stringy portions; pass 
meat through the meat chopper. Add remaining ingredients; 
the egg should be slightly beaten and added last; it holds the 
meat together while cooking. With the hands shape the meat 
in uniform size flat cakes. Be sure the cakes are as thick on the 
edges as in the center. Saute in a hissing hot iron skillet well 
greased with some of the fat tried out or in hot salt pork fat. 
Brown on one side, turn and brown on the other; serve with 
brown or tomato sauce and place the half of a broiled tomato 
on each cake. 

CORNED BEEF HASH. 

2 cups cold cooked corned beef Milk or stock 

finely chopped Salt and pepper 

2 cups cold boiled potatoes Clove of garlic 

finely chopped 
Process: Remove skin, fat and gristle; from corned beef; 
chop in chopping bowl. Boil potatoes in their jackets, peel 
and chop them fine. Toss meat and potatoes together, mixing 
thoroughly; season highly with salt and pepper. Turn into a 
well buttered spider or baking dish. Moisten with milk or 
stock; spread evenly if cooked in spider; let cook slowly until 
well browned underneath; fold as an omelet on a hot serving 
platter; garnish with poached eggs or serve with Hollandaise 
Sauce. A clove of garlic may be placed in center of hash 
while cooking and removed just before folding. If hash is 
cooked in baking dish in the oven, let it cook slowly until 
browned over top. Serve in baking dish. 

DRIED BEEF IN CREAM. 
1/2 lb. smoked dried beef cut 2 tablespoons flour 

in thin slices 2 tablespoons butter or 

iVz cups scalded milk or thin bacon fat 

cream 
Process: Remove the skin and stringy parts, and mince in 
small pieces; cover with boiling water; let soak ten minutes; 
drain. Dilute flour with sufficient water to pour; beat to a 
smooth paste; add hot milk gradually while stirring briskly. 



MEATS 65 

Cook in double boiler fifteen minutes. Melt butter in a spider, 
add beef and toss until slightly browned. Add thickened milK 
and stir until thoroughly blended; serve in a potato border. 

DELICIOUS BEEF PIE. 

Line the bottom and sides of a well buttered baking dish 
with hot, highly seasoned mashed potatoes, to which add two 
tablespoons finely chopped onion or chives; over this, place a 
thick layer of left-over roast beef cut in small pieces; season 
with salt, pepper, onion juice, one tablespoon Worcestershire 
sauce, moisten with Brown Sauce and cover with a layer of 
potato mixture; ornament rim of dish with some of the mixture 
forced through a pastry bag and star tube. Brush over lightly 
with beaten egg. Bake in a hot oven until mixture is thor- 
oughly heated and potato is delicately browned. 

BEEF CROQUETTES. 

i^ cups finely chopped left- Few drops onion juice 

over roast beef or steak i teaspoon finely chopped 
^ teaspoon salt parsley 

J4 teaspoon pepper Brown Sauce 

I tablespoon Worcestershire 
sauce 
Process: Remove all fat and gristle from cold roast beef 
or steak. Chop fine and add ingredients in the order given; 
moisten with thick Brown Sauce (made by increasing the quan- 
tity of flour called for in the recipe for Brown Sauce to one- 
half cup). Shape in cones, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs and 
fry in deep hot fat. Serve with Brown, Tomato, or Creole 
Sauce. 

CREOLE CROQUETTES. 
Chop the flank ends of porter-house steaks fine (there should 
be one cup packed solidly). Add one-fourth cup uncooked rice, 
season highly with salt, pepper and a few grains of cayenne. 
Wrap one rounded tablespoon of this mixture in cabbage leaves 
which have been previously parboiled two minutes. Simmer 



66 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

one hour in Tomato Sauce No. II; basting three or four times. 
Cover closely while cooking. 

MUTTON AND LAMB. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 

Select a good quality of fat, fine grained mutton of a 
bright pink color; fat should be creamy in color, firm and flaky. 
Remove the meat from the paper, wipe with a piece of cheese 
cloth wrung from cold water, place in kettle and add boiling 
water to cover. Bring quickly to the boiling point and cook five 
minutes; skim, and reduce heat to simmering point; cover closely 
and cook until tender; the last hour of cooking add one table- 
spoon salt. Serve on a bed of steamed rice garnished with 
parsley and currant jelly. Pass caper sauce. 

MUTTON WITH CURRANT JELLY SAUCE. 

2 tablespoons butter i cup Brown Stock 

2J/4 tablespoons flour $14 tablespoons currant or wild 

J4 teaspoon salt plum jelly 

]/S teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons sherry wine 

Slices cold cooked mutton 
Process: Melt butter and brown richly in a sauce-pan; add 
flour and continue browning; add seasoning and stock slowly, 
stirring constantly; beat the jelly with a fork and add to sauce; 
when melted add mutton ; simmer gently until mutton is heated 
thoroughly; add wine. Dispose mutton on a platter and pour 
over sauce. Left-over gravy maj^ be used instead of making 
Brown Sauce. 

MUTTON CHOPS. 

Chops should be cut at least one inch thick; trim ofif super- 
fluous fat and place on a well greased broiler, using some of 
the mutton fat. Place chops on broiler under the gas flame 
sufficiently far from flame that the chops will not come in con- 
tact with the flame. Turn chops every ten seconds for the 
first five minutes until well seared. Then turn occasionally 
until well cooked on both sides. Reduce the heat and finish 



MEATS 67 

cooking. Chop one inch thick should cook fifteen minutes. 
Arrange on hot serving platter spread with soft butter; sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. Serve with Currant Jelly Sauce. 

BRAZED STUFFED LEG OF LAMB. 
Order a leg of lamb boned at the market, if it cannot be 
boned at home. Remove from paper; wipe with a piece of 
chees cloth, wrung from cold water; stuff and truss into shape; 
place in a Dutch oven; cook five minutes in one-third cup of 
meat drippings or butter. A large slice each of carrot, onion, 
finely chopped and a small bay leaf, a sprig each of thyme, marjor- 
am and parsley. Turn the meat several times that the surface 
may be well seared; add three cups of hot brown stock or water, 
one-half tablespoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper corns; ponr 
this mixture over lamb; cover close and cook slowly from two and 
one-half to three hours. Uncover the la,st half-hour of cooking 
to finish browning. Remove from pan to hot serving platter; 
strain stock from pan. There should be two cups of this stock, 
which may be used for making a brown sauce. 

CRACKER STUFFING FOR LAMB. 

I cup cracker crumbs l^i teaspoon pepper 

% cup butter ]/2 teaspoon poultry seasoning 

16 cup boiling water J^ teaspoon finely chopped 

J/2 teaspoon salt parsley 

Few drops onion juice 
Process: Crush the crackers into coarse crumbs. Melt butter 
in boiling water; add slowly to crumbs while tossing them 
lightly with a fork; sift in seasoning, add parsley and onion 
juice. Mix well and fill boned leg of lamb. 

LAMB CHOPS. 

Trim the desired number of chops rather close, scraping 
the bone French fashion; wipe and bat into shape with a chop 
bat or cleaver wet in cold water; place on a well greased broiler 
under the gas flame; sear quickly over; turn each chop and sear 
the other side. The surface should be well done, then the heat 



68 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

may be reduced and the chops cooked until well done. Lamb 
being an immature meat, requires thorough cooking. It may- 
be necessary to baste the chops with melted butter or drip- 
pings twice during the process of broiling. Sprinkle both sides 
with salt and pepper; dispose on hot serving platter. Cover 
the tips of the bones with paper frills, having one chop over- 
lap another; surround with green peas or rosette of mashed 
potatoes, puree of peas or chestnuts. 

LAMB CROQUETTES. 

1 cup cold cooked lamb finely 4 tablespoons flour 

chopped I cup stock 

y^ cup cold boiled potatoes i teaspoon parsley finely 

finely chopped chopped 

2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper 
I slice onion finely chopped Left-over peas 

Process: Cook onion in butter five minutes; remove onion. 
Add flour and stir to a smooth paste; add stock gradually, stir- 
ring constantly; add meat, potato, salt and pepper; simmer 
gently until meat and potato is blended with sauce. Spread 
mixture on a plate to cool. Divide the mixture into equal parts 
(this quantity will make seven croquettes). 

Take up a portion of the mixture and make a depression 
in center; put in a teaspoon of left-over cream peas; enclose 
peas carefully; shape, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs again. 
Fry in deep hot fat. Drain on brown paper and serve with 
Sauce Bearnaise. 

VEAL. 

ROAST VEAL. 

The leg, cushion (fricandeau) and loin are the choicest cuts 
for roasting. If the leg is to be roasted, have it boned at the 
market. See that the bones are sent with the roast, as they 
will furnish stock for sauce. Wipe meat with a piece of cheese 
cloth wrung from cold water; sprinkle with salt, pepper and 
dredge with flour truss in shape. Place on rack in dripping 
pan or on thin slices of fat salt pork; surround meat with strips 



MEATS 69 

of salt pork. Bake three to four hours in a very moderate 
oven, basting often the first thirty minutes with one-fourth 
cup butter melted in three-fourths cup boiling water, after- 
ward with the dripping in pan. If not sufficiently brown place 
meat under the gas fiame a few moments, basting often until 
the desired color. Remove from pan to serving platter; sur- 
round with stuffed tomatoes. Serve with Brown Sauce. 

VEAL STEW WITH NOODLES. 

Wipe a three-pound piece of veal cut from the shoulder 
into uniform pieces for serving; there should be some bones. 
Place bones in kettle, add one-half pound salt pork cut in thin 
slices cut slices into strips; add one small onion sliced, six 
slices of carrot, one stalk celery broken in pieces, one-half 
teaspoon pepper corns, one-half bay leaf, two sprigs thyme, one 
tablespoon salt, six cloves. 

Cover with boiling water; let simmer until meat is tender. 
Remove meat from liquor; strain the latter and slightly thicken 
with flour diluted with cold water. Sauce should be smooth 
and creamy. Add noodles and let simmer twenty minutes. The 
noodles will thicken liquor somewhat. 

Drain noodles from sauce; arrange in center of serving plat- 
ter; dispose meat around noodles and pour sauce over; sprinkle 
with paprika or finelj^ chopped parsley. 

BREADED VEAL CUTLETS. 
Wipe a slice of veal cut from the leg one and one-half 
inches thick. Separate in uniform pieces for serving. The long 
irregular muscles may be rolled and fastened with a small but- 
tered wooden skewer (toothpick). Sprinkle with salt, pepper 
and dredge with flour. Dip in egg, and fine cracker or bread 
crumbs; saute a rich brown on both sides in hot salt pork fat", 
or equal parts of pork fat and butter. Pour over cutlets two 
cups of Brown or Tomato Sauce; let simmer until cutlets are 
tender. The veal may be cooked in boiling salted water until 
tender, then cut in cutlets, crumbed, and sauted. Use the 
water in which veal was cooked for stock in making the sauce. 



70 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Dispose on hot serving platter and strain sauce around cutlets; 
garnish with broiled tomatoes and parsley. 

VEAL CROQUETTES. 

2 cups cooked veal finely Few drops onion juice 

chopped I teaspoon finely chopped 

Yi teaspoon salt parsley 

y% teaspoon pepper Yolk of one egg 

Few grains cayenne i cup thick Veloute Sauce 

Process: Mix the ingredients in the order given; moisten 
with sauce. Spread mixture on a plate to cool. Shape, crumb 
and fry as other croquettes. Serve with Creole Sauce. 

CALF'S LIVER WITH BACON. 

Pan broil the bacon (see page T^i) ! cut the liver in slices 
one-half inch thick. Cover with boiling water; let stand five 
minutes; drain and wipe dry. Dip each slice in bacon fat. 
sprinkle with salt, pepper and dredge lightly with flour; saute 
a delicate brown in hot bacon fat; turn and brown evenly. Serve 
with crisp bacon. 

FRIED SWEETBREAD CUTLETS. 

Parboil one pound of sweetbreads in salted acidulated 
water to cover twenty minutes, drain and dry; cut in uniform 
slices, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs and fry in deep hot fat. 
Serve with Hollandaise or Sauce Tartare. Garnish cutlets with 
French peas, stringless beans, or asparagus spears. These 
cutlets may be sauted in bacon fat and garnished with crisp 
bacon 

CALF'S BRAIN FRITTERS AND BATTER. 
I pair calf's brains 2 slices onion 

3 cloves ^ small bay leaf 

Salt, vinegar, boiling water 
Process: Clean brains, and cook twenty minutes in boiling 
salted acidulated water; to which add cloves, onion and bay 
leaf; remove from range and let cool in the water in which 



MEATS 71 

they were cooked. Drain, and dry between towels; cut in 
small pieces. 

FRITTER BATTER. 

^ cup flour Few grains pepper 

I teaspoon baking powder i egg well beaten 

J4 teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons milk , 

Process: Sift first four ingredients together, add egg and 
milk slowly, beating constantly; when the batter is perfectly 
smooth add brains. Place six small muffin rings in a frying 
pan; fill to one-fourth its depth with lard; when fat is smoking 
hot, fill rings two-thirds full of mixture. Cook on one side; 
with a spatula turn and cook on the other. Serve with Sauce 
Galli. 

SAUCE GALLI. 

4 tablespoons butter i tablespoon Worcestershire 
Yi tablespoon lemon juice sauce 

1 slice onion i cup thick tomato puree 
Bit of bay leaf i small clove garlic 

2 tablespoons green pepper, 3 cloves 

finely chopped Salt and cayenne 

Process: Cook onion, garlic, bay leaf, and cloves with 
tomato, until tomato is well reduced; rub through strainer; 
there should be one cup pulp. Brown butter richly; add tomato 
pulp, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, green pepper pre- 
viously parboiled ten minutes, salt and cayenne. 

PORK. 
ROAST LOIN OF PORK. 
Select loin of little pig. Have it trimmed at the market. 
Reserve the trimmings; wipe the pork and dredge with salt 
and pepper; place on rack in a dripping pan and dredge the 
meat with flour. Bake in a moderate oven from 3 to 4 hours, 
basting each ten to fifteen minutes with fat in the pan. The 
pork may be dredged with flour twice during the process of 
cooking, which gives it a rich brown crust when done; serve 
with glazed sweet potatoes and baked apples. 



72 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



PORK CHOPS. 

Have chops cut three-fourths of an inch thick; wipe them 
and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and dredge with flour. Try out 
some of the fat trimmings in a frying pan; remove scraps and 
brown chops richly. Drain off some of the fat, reduce the 
heat and cook slowly until chops are tender. Serve with apple 
sauce, fried or baked apples. 

BRAISED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH PUREE OF 
SWEET POTATOES. 

Split two medium sized tenderloins lengthwise, trim into 
shape, sprinkle with salt, pepper and dredge with flour. Saute 
quickly in hot salt pork fat. Drain off some of the fat; add 
one and one-half cups brown stock, a small bit of bay leaf, 
three slices carrot, one blade celery cut in small pieces, one 
slice onion, a sprig of parsley, two cloves, half teaspoon pepper 
corns and salt; cover closely and let simmer until meat is 
tender. Remove tenderloins to hot serving platter; strain liquor 
in pan; make a brown sauce of this stock. Prepare a sweet po- 
tato puree; arrange a mound of it in the center of a chop platter; 
dispose the richly browned tenderloins around this, placing 
them upright at equal distance apart; then force some of the 
puree through a pastry bag with star tube between each fillet, 
beginning at top of mound; bring gracefully down between each 
to the edge of platter. With a little practice this decoration 
may be made perfect. It is both simple and showy. 

SAUSAGE WITH APPLE RINGS. 

Prick each link with a fork in several places to prevent 
skins from bursting. Cover with boiling Avater and let simmer 
fifteen minutes; drain and dredge lightly with flour and brown 
in oven or over simmer burner. Make a syrup of one cup of 
sugar and one-half cup water cooked together five minutes 
with a thin piece of lemon rind. Wipe, pare and core three 
or four fine flavored tart apples; cut them in thick rings; cook 
them carefully in the syrup until soft but not broken. Drain 



MEATS 73 

from syrup and dispose them around the sausage arranged in 
a pyramid in center of platter. 

BAKED HAM. 

Select a thick ham weighing fourteen pounds. Soak over 
night in sweet cider or equal parts of sweet cider and cold 
water. In the morning drain, wipe dry, scrape and trim if 
necessary. Prepare a thick dough by mixing flour and water 
together, roll out to one-half inch thickness and enclose ham 
in it. Wet the edges of the dough and press them firmly to- 
gether. Place ham in a large dripping pan and bake slowly 
in a moderate oven four to five hours; remove from oven; 
break off shell and skin the ham; trim off ragged portions; 
sprinkle fat side thickly with one cup of fine bread crumbs 
and one-half cup of soft brown sugar; stick with cloves in 
diagonal rows one inch apart; return ham to oven and brown 
richly. Slip a paper frill on the knuckles, garnish with lemon 
and serve on a bed of parsley. 

PAN BROILED HAM WITH EGGS. 

Trim and wipe a slice of ham cut one-fourth inch thick; 
place ham in frying pan; cover with lukewarm water; let stand 
on side of range thirty minutes; drain and wipe with a crash 
towel. When pan is hissing hot lay in ham; brown quickly 
first on one side, then turn and brown the other. Remove to 
serving platter. Break the desired number of eggs in a saucer 
one at a time and slip them carefully into the tried out ham 
fat. Cover them with boiling water, place the cover on the 
pan and let eggs poach until whites are firm. Arrange eggs 
around ham; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve at once. 

PAN BROILED BACON. 

Cut the bacon in slices as thin as paper; this can be easily 
accomplished if the side of bacon is very cold and the knife is 
thin, sharp and hot. Cut the slices down to the rind; then run 
the knife under the slices. Keep sharp edge close to the rind 
while cutting. Arrange the slices in a hissing hot frying pan; 



74 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

as soon as they become transparent begin to turn them; in a 
minute they may be removed to drain on brown paper. 

SALT PORK, COUNTRY STYLE. 

Select fat salt pork streaked with lean; cut in slices one- 
third of an inch in thickness; cover with boiling water; drain 
and dredge each slice with flour, first on one side and then 
on the other; place at once in a well-greased, hissing hot fry- 
ing pan; let cook slowly until richly browned, turning that both 
sides may be browned evenlj'^; drain on soft paper. They 
should be well cooked. Drain off part of the fat in the pan and 
saute peeled, cored and sliced apples in this fat, turning often 
that each side may be richly browned. Arrange pork on ser- 
ving platter and surround with the fried apples. 

BOSTON BAKED BEANS. 

Wash and pick over one quart pea beans, cover with fresh 
cold water and soak over night. Then drain; cover with fresh 
water; bring slowly to the boiling point; let simmer until skins 
will crack, which may be tested by taking a teaspoon of beans 
and blowing on them; if the skins burst the beans are suffi- 
ciently cooked. Discard the beans thus tested. Drain beans; 
throw away water. Scald rind of one pound salt pork; scrape; 
remove two one-fourth inch slices; lay these in the bottom of 
bean pot; peel and slice one medium sized onion over pork. 
Score the rind of remaining pork every half inch, making in- 
cisions one inch deep. Put beans in pot; bury pork in them, 
leaving only rind exposed. Mix in a bowl one tablespoon salt, 
one tablespoon molasses, two tablespoons sugar, one cup boil- 
ing water and pour over beans; fill up bean pot with boiling 
Avater until water bubbles up among the beans. Cover bean 
pot and place in oven. Bake slowly six or eight hours; remove 
cover the last half hour of cooking to brown beans and crisp 
the pork rind. When necessary add more water. Serve with 
steamed Boston brown bread. 



CHAPTER XI. 



POULTRY AND GAME. 

ROAST TURKEY. 

Select a plump ten-pound young turkey, dress, clean, stuff, 
and truss; place it on thin slices of fat pork laid in the bottom 
of dripping pan; rub the entire surface with salt, sprinkle with 
pepper and spread with the following paste: 

Cream one-third cup butter; add slowly while stirring con- 
stantly one-fourth cup flour. Spread this mixture over wings, 
breast, and legs; place in a hot oven and brown delicately. Turn 
and brown back of turkey; then turn breast-side up; continue 
browning and basting every ten minutes until bird is evenly 
browned. Add two cups water to fat in pan; continue basting 
every fifteen minutes until bird is tender, which may be deter- 
mined by piercing leg with a small wooden skewer. It will re- 
quire from three to three and one-half hours, depending upon 
the age of the bird. 

For first basting after the turkey is delicately browned, use 
one-half cup butter melted in one cup of boiling water or the 
same quantity of turkey fat. li the turkey is browning too 
rapidly, cover with a piece of heavy paper well buttered; placed 
over turkey buttered side down. Remove the skewer and strings 
used in trussing before placing on serving platter. 

GRANDMA'S BREAD STUFFING. 

Remove the crust from two small bakers' loaves; slice and 
pick in small bits; season with one-half teaspoon pepper, two 
and one-half teaspoons salt, one-half teaspoon powdered sage, 
and one medium sized onion finely chopped; mix well, using 
two forks; melt two-thirds cup of butter in three-fourths cup 
of boiling water; add to first mixture; toss lightly with the 
forks; add two eggs slightly beaten, mix well and fill body and 

75 



7fi THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

breast of turkey, putting sufficient in the latter to give the bird 
a plump appearance. If bread is very stale, more moisture may 
be added. 

MINCED TURKEY WITH POACHED EGGS. 

To one cup of cold roast turkey, chopped moderately, add 
one-half cup of stuffing finely chopped. Moisten w^ith a sauce 
made by melting two tablespoons butter in a sauce-pan; brown 
well; add two and one-half tablespoons flour; continue browning. 
Add one cup of stock (made by cooking skin and bones of a 
roast turkey); season with salt, pepper and onion juice. Re- 
heat turkey and stuffing in sauce. Serve on circles of toast 
with a poached egg placed in center of each; garnish with 
sprays of parsley. 

ROAST CHICKEN. 

Follow the instructions given for roast turkey. 

CHICKEN SAUTE. 

Remove pin feathers, clean, singe, and disjoint two young 
chickens; dip them quickly into cold milk; drain; sprinkle with 
salt, pepper, and dredge thickly with flour, having as much flour 
cling to the chicken as possible; cut one pound fat salt pork 
into one-fourth inch cubes; try out in frying-pan; remove scraps; 
cook chicken slowly in fat until well browned and tender. Serve 
with a Cream Sauce and Corn Fritters. 

BROILED CHICKEN. 

Remove pin feathers, singe, wipe, and with a sharp pointed 
knife begin at the back of neck, making a clean cut through 
backbone the length of bird. Press open and remove entrails; 
remove ribs from each side of backbone, also breast bone; clip 
the tendons at the joints; brush over with melted butter and 
sprinkle with salt and pepper; place in a well greased broiler; 
broil twenty minutes under the gas flame; watch carefully and 
turn bird so that all parts may be equally browned; the flesh 
side must be exposed to the flame a greater part of the time 
as the skin side browns much more rapidly than the opposite 



POULTRY AND GAME 77 

side; reduce flame, cover closely and let bird steam ten to fif- 
teen minutes according to age and size of the bird. In this 
way the meat at the joints is thoroughly cooked. Remove 
to hot serving platter and spread with Maitre d' Hotel Butter. 
Chickens are so often burned during the process of cooking 
that many prefer to partially cook them in the oven. This is 
unnecessary if the bird is carefully watched while broiling. If, 
however, one prefers to use the oven the chicken may be placed 
skin side down in a well greased dripping pan; sprinkle with 
salt and pepper; baste with melted butter and bake twenty to 
twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. The initial heat should be 
very hot. After bird is richly browned the heat may be reduced, 
the bird covered and allowed to simmer until tender. Some- 
times the bird is browned after cooking by placing beneath the 
gas flame for a few moments. 

BOILED FOWL. 

StuflF and truss a four pound fowl, tie in a square of cheese 
cloth, to prevent scum from settling on bird, place on a trivot 
in a stock pot or large kettle and cover to half its depth with 
boiling water; add one small onion sliced, six slices of carrot, 
three outside stalks of celerj' cut in inch pieces, one-half tea- 
spoon peppercorns, one-half bayleaf, two sprigs of thyme and 
one sprig of parsley. Cover and cook slowly until tender; keep 
water just below boiling point; turn occasionally; add one and 
one-fourth tablespoons of salt the last hour of cooking. Drain 
from liquor; remove cheese cloth, skewers and trussing; place 
in a border of spaghetti and serve with Oyster or Celery Sauce 
or Sauce Soubise. 

STUFFING FOR BOILED FOWL. 

Cook two cups spaghetti broken in one inch pieces in two 
quarts of boiling salt water until tender; drain, blanch, and 
season with salt, pepper, two tablespoons butter, one-half tea- 
spoon finely chopped parsley and one small onion finely 
chopped ; fill the fowl with above mixture ; truss neatly as for 
roasting. 



78 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



ROAST GOOSE. 

After trussing, place the goose on a rack in a dripping pan; 
sprinkle with salt; cover the breast with thin slices of fat 
salt pork, and place in the oven. Cook three-quarters of an 
hour, basting often with the fat in the pan. Then remove 
pan from oven and drain off the fat. Remove the slices of 
pork; sprinkle again with salt; dredge with flour, and return to 
oven. When the flour is delicately browned, add one cup 
boiling water and baste often — add more water when neces- 
sary. Sprinkle lightly with salt and again dredge with flour. 
Cook until tender; from one and a half to three hours, ac- 
cording to the age of bird. If you have a very young goose, 
it is infinitely better to steam or braise it until tender, then 
dredge it with salt, flour and brown it richly in the oven. 
Serve on a bed of cress, garnished with baked Snow or Jona- 
than apples. 

POTATO AND NUT STUFFING FOR ROAST GOOSE 
OR DOMESTIC DUCKS. 

4 cups hot mashed potatoes i% teaspoon salt 
2j4 tablespoons finely chopped ^ cup cream 

onion or chives 2 tablespoons butter 

I cup English walnut meats Yolks of 4 eggs 

chopped moderately i teaspoon sweet herbs if the 

J/2 teaspoon paprika flavor is desired 

Process: Mix the ingredients in the order given and fill 
the body of the goose. 

BROILED SQUAB. 

Select plump squabs: split them lengthwise of the back 
through to the breast. Remove the entrails; clean thoroughly; 
wipe dry with a crash towel. 

Spread with melted butter, or cover them with thin slices of 
bacon; place them in a hot oven fifteen minutes. If not suffi- 
ciently brown, finish cooking them under the gas flame. Serve 



POULTRY AND GAME 79 

on slices of toast, delicately moistened with some of the 
strained dripping in the pan. Spread each with Maitre d'Hotel 
Butter and garnish with sprigs of parsley. 

BRAISED QUAIL. 

Dress and clean the desired number of fat quails. Replace 
the heart and liver in each and truss into shape. Wrap each 
bird in a thin slice fat salt pork; put them in a Dutch oven or a 
patent roaster just large enough to hold them. Season highly 
with salt, pepper and cayenne; add sufficient hot stock or boil- 
ing water to cover them. Cover closely and place in hot oven 
and cook ten minutes after they begin cooking. Remove the 
quails; also the pork; wipe the birds and spread them with but- 
ter paste and finish roasting in the oven, basting them with but- 
ter melted in hot water same as turkey. Reserve the stock in 
which they were cooked to prepare sauce. Serve with currant 
jelly sauce or cold currant jelly. 

ROAST WILD DUCK. 

Dress and clean a brace of wild ducks; truss same as goose; 
place on rack or on thin slices of fat salt pork laid in bottom of 
dripping pan; sprinkle with salt and pepper; cover breast with 
very thin slices of fat salt pork; bake thirty to thirty-five min- 
utes in a very hot oven, basting every five minutes with dripping 
in pan. Remove strings and skewers; place birds on hot serv- 
ing platter and serve with Olive or Orange sauce. Wild plum, 
black or red currant jelly may accompany the roast duck. Do- 
mestic birds should be well cooked, requiring more than twice 
the time as that required for the wild birds. When cooking 
wild ducks, to overcome fishy flavor that they sometimes de- 
velop from their diet, apples are cored and quartered or onions 
are placed in the body of the bird, neither one of which is 
to be served when the bird is carved. If desired, the following 
stuffing may be used: 



8o THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

STUFFING FOR WILD DUCK. 

2 cups cracker crumbs J/^ cup butter 

I cup English walnut meats i small onion finely chopped 

finely chopped J/2 teaspoon finely chopped 

I cup thick cream 

parsley 
Salt, pepper, and cayenne 
Process: Crush the crackers moderately; add nut meats, 
cream, butter, and onion; mix well; add parsley and seasoning. 
If stuffing appears too dry, add more cream or milk. 

RABBIT A LA MARYLAND. 

Clean and cut up two rabbits; sprinkle with salt; pepper, 
and dredge with flour; dip in egg and crumbs; arrange them in 
a well greased dripping pan and bake thirty-five minutes in a 
hot oven, basting after the first five minutes of cooking with 
one-third cup butter melted in one cup boiling water or white 
stock. Serve with a cream sauce and garnish with crisp bacon. 
If the rabbits are old, more time may be required for cooking 
them. They should be very tender. 



CHAPTER XII. 



MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 

THIN WHITE SAUCE. 

2 tablespoons butter J/^ teaspoon salt 

lYz tablespoons flour Few grains white pepper 

I cup scalded milk 
Process: Alelt butter in sauce-pan; add flour mixed with 
seasonings; stir to a smooth paste; add hot milk slowly while 
stirring constantly; bring to boiling point and beat until smooth 
and glossy, using a Gem egg whip. Do not allow sauce to cook 
after it has reached the boiling point. 

WHITE SAUCE No. 2. 

Prepare the same as Thin White Sauce, using two table- 
spoons flour, increasing flour one-half tablespoon. 

THICK WHITE SAUCE. 
(Basis of Croquettes and Cutlets.) 
2J/2 tablespoons butter i cup scalded milk 

5J/^ tablespoons flour V^ teaspoon salt 

Few grains pepper 
Process: Prepare same as Thin White Sauce. This sauce 
is very thick; therefore great care must be taken that it does not 
scorch. 

VELOUTE SAUCE. 

2 tablespoons butter i cup chicken or white stock 

2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper 

Process: Prepare same as Thin White Sauce. 

THICK VELOUTE SAUCE. 
(Used for Croquettes and Cutlets.) 

2^ tablespoons butter i cup hot chicken stock 

SYz tablespoons flour Salt and peppe»- 

81 



82 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Process: Prepare the same as Thin White Sauce, being 
careful not to scorch while cooking. 

CHEESE SAUCE. 

4 tablespoons butter ^ teaspoon salt 

3 tablespoons flour % teaspoon pepper 

2 cups scalded milk Few grains cayenne 

ij^ cups grated cheese 
Process: Melt butter in sauce-pan; add flour; stir to a 
smooth paste and add milk gradually, beating constantly; add 
seasonings and cheese; continue stirring until cheese is melted; 
pour over macaroni. Serve on hot platter. Or turn Into but- 
tered baking dish, cover with crumbs and place in hot oven 
until crumbs are browned. 

BROWN SAUCE. 

4 tablespoons butter 2 cups brown stock 

5J/^ tablespoons flour ^ teaspoon salt 

% teaspoon pepper 
Process: Melt butter in a sauce-pan; brown richly. Add 
flour and continue browning, stirring constantly. Add hot 
stock gradually while beating brisklj^ add seasoning; bring to 
boiling point: remove from range. If these sauces are allowed 
to cook after they have reached the boilmg point, they some- 
times separate. 

CURRANT JELLY SAUCE. 

Prepare a rule of Brown Sauce. Add one-quarter cup currant 
jelljr whipped with a fork until smooth. Add one tablespoon 
sherry wine. Serve with mutton or venison. 

GIBLET SAUCE. 

Drain the liquor from the pan in which the turkey was 
roasted. Take three tablespoons of the fat, stram through a 
fine sieve; add three tablespoons butter; place m a sauce-pan; 
brown richly; add seven tablespoons of flour and continue 
browning; stir to a smooth paste, being careful not to burn the 
mixture; pour on slowly, while stirring constantly, three cups 



MEAT AND FISH SAUCES 



strained stock in which the neck, pinions and giblets were 
cooked; bring to boiling point and season to taste with salt and 
pepper. Chop the giblets very fine, first removing the tough 
parts of the gizzard, then re-heat in sauce. 

BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

I can small button mushrooms 2 cups brown stock 

4 tablespoons butter J/4 tablespoon lemon juice 

4 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons sherry wine 

Process: Melt the butter in a sauce-pan; brown it richl}^; 
add flour and continue browning, stirring constantly. Add 
brown stock gradualh'; continue stirring. Add lemon juice and 
sherry. Heat the mushrooms in their own liquor. If they are 
very small button mushrooms they ma}'' be used whole: if 
larger mushrooms are used they may be cut in quarters. Drain 
from the hot liquor and add them to the sauce. 

CREOLE SAUCE. 
Prepare a Brown Mushroom Sauce. Melt two tablespoons 
butter in a sauce-pan j add one green pepper finely chopped, one 
small onion finely chopped; cook five minutes. Add two to- 
matoes cut in pieces or one cup of canned tomatoes and ten 
olives pared from the pit in one continuous curl. Cook three 
minutes. Add the Brown Sauce and bring to boiling point. 
Add two tablespoons sherry wine. Do not strain the sauce. 
Serve with steaks, chops and fillet of beef. 

TOMATO SAUCE No. i. 
Yz can tomatoes or 3 tablespoons butter 

2 cups fresh stewed and 3 tablespoons flour 

strained tomatoes J/2 teaspoon salt 

I slice onion y^ teaspoon pepper 

3 drops Tabasco sauce 
Process: Cook tomatoes and onion twenty-five minutes. 
Rub through a strainer. Melt butter in a sauce-pan; brown 
it richly. Add flour and when well browned add seasoning and 
tomato pulp. A few grains of soda may be added if tomatoes 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



are too acid. Stir until sauce is smooth and reaches the boil- 
ing point. Serve with breaded veal, boiled beef, tongue, etc. 

TOMATO SAUCE No. 2. 

4 tablespoons butter Sprig parsley 

5 tablespoons flour Sprig thyme 

I slice onion ij4 cups stewed and strained 

1 small clove garlic tomato pulp 

2 slices carrot lYi cups brown stock 
Small piece bay leaf Salt and pepper 

Few drops Tabasco sauce 
Process: Brown the butter in a sauce-pan with onions, car- 
rot, garlic, bay leaf, parsley and thyme. Remove seasonings. 
Add flour and continue browning, stirring continually. Add 
tomatoes, stock and seasonings. Heat to boiling point and 

strain. 

OYSTER SAUCE. 

4 tablespoons butter i cup scalded thin cream or milk 

4 tablespoons flour 2 cups oysters 

I cup oyster liquor Salt, pepper, celery salt 

Process: Wash oysters; strain the liquor. Put liquor in 
sauce-pan; bring to boiling point; strain. Plump oysters; put 
them in a warm sauce-boat; melt butter in a sauce-pan; add 
flour; stir to a smooth paste; let cook one minute. Add hot 
oyster liquor slowly while beating constantly. Add cream or 
milk and stir until smooth and glossy. Season well with salt, 
pepper and celery salt; pour over oysters. 

EGG SAUCE. 
(Drawn Butter Sauce.) 

5J^ tablespoons butter lYz cups boiling water 

3 tablespoons flour J^ teaspoon salt 

J4 teaspoon pepper 3 ^g^ yolks slightly beaten 

Process: Pat butter into a circular piece; divide it equally 
in two parts. Melt one part in a sauce-pan; add flour mixed 
with salt and pepper. Stir to a smooth paste and add boil- 
ing water gradually while stirring constantly. Bring to boiling 



MEAT AND FISH SAUCES 85 

point. Remove from range and beat in remaining butter, adding 
it in small bits, while beating constantly. Add egg yolks; 
continue beating. Do not allow sauce to boil after yolks are 
added. Omit egg yolks for Drawn Butter. 

SUPREME SAUCE. 

54 cup butter J/2 cup hot cream 

J4 cup flour 2 tablespoons mushroom liquor 

1Y2 cups chicken stock 54 tablespoons lemon juice 

Salt and pepper 
. Process: Melt butter in a sauce-pan; add flour and stir to a 
smooth paste; let cook one minute (without browning); add 
gradually hot chicken stock, stirring briskly. Add hot cream; 
continue stirring. Reduce one-third cup mushroom liquor to 
two tablespoons by simmering slowly; add reduced liquor to 
sauce; add lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pep- 
per. Lemon juice may be omitted and a few grains of nutmeg 
added. Whip sauce until smooth and glossy. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

V/i cups highly seasoned ^ cup scalded thin cream 

chicken stock ^ teaspoon salt 

J4 cup butter V^ teaspoon pepper 

J4 cup flour Few grains nutmeg 

Yolks 3 eggs 
Process: Melt butter in a sauce-pan; add flour mixed with 
seasonings; stir to a smooth paste and let cook one minute. 
Then add hot stock, stirring constantly. Add hot cream; con- 
tinue stirring. Beat yolks of eggs slightly; dilute with some 
of the hot sauce. Combine mixtures; beat again but do not 
allow the sauce to boil after adding egg yolks. 

White Bechamel Sauce is made by omitting yolk of eggs. 

SAUCE SOUBISE. 

254 cups sliced onions J^ cup hot cream 

I small clove garlic Yz teaspoon salt 

I cup Veloute Sauce % teaspoon pepper 



S6 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Process: Cover onions and garlic with boiling water; boil 
five minutes; drain and cover again with boiling salted water 
and let cook until tender. Rub through a puree strainer. (There 
should be one cup pulp.) Bring sauce to boiling point; add 
onion and hot cream; add salt and pepper. Garlic may be 
omitted. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
1/2 cup unsalted butter J4 teaspoon salt 

Yolks 2 eggs Few grains cayenne 

54 tablespoon lemon juice ]/4 cup hot water 

Process: Work the butter with the hands in a bowl of cold 
water until it is of a "waxy" consistency. Divide it into three 
pieces of equal size. Put one part in a sauce-pan with the yolks 
of eggs and lemon juice; place sauce-pan in a larger pan con- 
taining hot water; stir constantly with a Gem egg whip until 
butter is blended with the yolks; add the second piece of but- 
ter and as sauce thickens add the third piece. At this point 
in the process the mixture should be the consistency of boiled 
custard. Add hot water slowly, and seasoning, beating con- 
stantly. The water in the largest sauce-pan should be kept 
just below the boiling point. 

SAUCE BEARNAISE. 

Prepare a rule of Hollandaise Sauce, using Tarragon vine- 
gar instead of lemon juice and add one teaspoon each of finely 
chopped parsley, capers and fresh Tarragon. Serve with lamb 
croquettes, chops, steaks, broiled birds, smelt and boiled salmon, 
cod or haddock. 

MINT SAUCE. 

Cliop one bunch of mint fine; add one-fourth cup boiling 
water, two tablespoons of sugar, and let stand thirty minutes. 
Then add the juice of one lemon or four tablespoons of table 
vinegar, half a teaspoon of salt and one-eighth teaspoon of pep- 
per. Mix well and serve cold. 



MEAT AND FISH SAUCES 87 



CHERRY SAUCE FOR LAMB OR MUTTON. 
Cook two cups of pitted cherries in two cups of water, witk 
six cloves and an inch stick of cinnamon, until cherries are 
soft. Then rub through a sieve and return pulp and juice to 
the range. Keep just below the boiling point. Melt two 
tablespoons of butter in a sauce-pan; add two tablespoons of 
flour; stir to a smooth paste and add cherry pulp slowly, while 
stirring briskly. Cook five minutes, keeping sauce just below 
the boiling point. Season delicately with salt and paprika; add 
the jaice of half a lemon. Serve hot. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



VEGETABLES. 

BOILED ASPARAGUS. 

Cut off the hard parts of the stalks to the point where they 
will not snap. Untie the bunches; wash; cut off the scales; 
tie again into bunches and cook in boiling salted water twenty 
minutes, or until tender, leaving the tips out of the water for 
the first ten minutes. Drain; untie bunches and dispose in a 
serving dish. Dot over with soft butter, allowing two table- 
spoons to each bunch of asparagus. Asparagus may be cut In 
inch pieces for boiling; cook until tender in boiling salted 
water to cover, omitting the tips. They may be added the 
last ten minutes of cooking. 

ASPARAGUS A LA HOLLAND AISE. 

Cook as for boiled asparagus; dispose on slices of toas"t and 
pour Hollandaise Sauce over tips. 

STRING BEANS. 

With a sharp knife cut off the stem ends, remove the strings 
from beans, and cut in inch pieces or cut diagonally into 
diamond shapes. Wash and cook in boiling salted water from 
one to three hours, or until soft. Add salt the last hour of 
cooking. Sometimes one-eighth tablespoon soda is added to the 
water to preserve the bright green color. Drain and dot 
over with soft butter seasoned with salt and pepper or serve in 
Thin White Sauce. 

LIMA BEANS WITH CREAM. 

Shell and wash lima beans. Cook in boiling water to cover 
until tender, adding salt the last halt hour of cooking. Cook 
in as little water as possible that there may be none left to 

88 



VEGETABLES ~ 89 



drain off when beans are cooked. Dot over with butter and 
season with salt and pepper. These beans may also be re- 
heated in Thin White Sauce. 

BOILED BEETS. 

Wash and cover with boiling water; cook until tender. This 
may require from one to three hours or more. Very old beets 
seem never to become tender, no matter how long they are 
cooked. Add water when necessary. Drain and cover with 
cold water that skins may be readily removed. Serve sliced 
or cut in dice with butter, pepper and salt, or they may be re- 
heated in drawn butter, to which vinegar has been added 
(about one-fourth cup). 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Wash, pick over and remove all wilted leaves from sprouts. 
Freshen by soaking in cold water from thirty minutes to one 
hour. Drain and cover with boiling salted water. Cook 
twenty minutes or until tender. Drain; re-heat in Thin White 
Sauce, allowing one cup sauce to one pint sprouts. They may 
also be served with Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 

STUFFED CABBAGE. 

Remove the stalk end of a head of cabbage, leaving a hollow 
shell of ample size. Chop fine one and one-half pounds of 
round steak, with one-fourth inch slice of bacon, and one 
onion; add one cup of bread crumbs soaked in water to cover 
and wrung dry; one beaten egg. Season highly with salt, pep- 
per, cayenne and mace; mould into balls the size of a small egg 
and arrange in cabbage shell; cover with shreds of green pep- 
per and steam until cabbage is tender; dispose on serving plat- 
ter and surround with tomato sauce. 

CABBAGE AU GRATIN. 

Cut one medium-sized head of cabbage in quarters. Cook in 
boiling salted water to cover until tender. Chop moderately 
and season with pepper, salt if necessary, and one green pep- 



90 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

per or pimiento finely chopped. Cover with one and one-quarter 
cups Thin White Sauce; add one-third cup grated cheese. Mix 
well and sprinkle thickly with three-quarters cup buttered 
crumbs. Place on grate in oven and bake until mixture is 
heated through and crumbs are browned. 

SPANISH RELISH. 
J4 small head cabbage J4 teaspoon salt 

J4 green pepper % teaspoon pepper 

I stalk celery 2 tablespoons sugar 

J4 small clove garlic 3 tablespoons vinegar 

I thick slice Spanish onion i tablespoon cold water 

Process: Chop the vegetables very fine; mix sugar, salt, 
pepper and sift into first mixture. Add vinegar diluted mth 
cold water. Toss lightly with a fork and serve in lemon cups 
with raw oysters. 

HOT SLAW. 

Shave cabbage as fine as possible with a sharp knife, using 
one-half cabbage. Serve with a dressing made of: Yolks two 
eggs, slightly beaten; one-fourth cup cold water; three table- 
spoons butter; four tablespoons vinegar; few drops onion juice; 
one-half teaspoon salt; one-half teaspoon ground mustard; few 
grains pepper. Stir this mixture over hot water until it thick- 
ens to the consistency of cream; add to cabbage and allow 
it to heat throughout. Salt, pepper and mustard should be 
sifted before adding to sauce. Two tablespoons sugar may be 
added if desired. 

CARROTS IN CREAM SAUCE. 

Wash, scrape and cut young carrots into small straws, fancy 
shapes or tiny cubes. Cook in boiling salted water or white 
stock to cover until tender. Drain and re-heat in one cup Thin 
White Sauce. There should be two cups carrots. 

CAULIFLOWER A LA BECHAMEL. 
Trim ofif leaves; cut off stalk of a medium sized cauliflower. 
Soak a half hour or longer, head down, in cold salted water to 



VEGETABLES 91 



cover. Drain and cook head up, twenty-five minutes in boiling 
salted water or white stock, until tender. Drain and remove 
carefully to hot serving dish and pour over one cup yellow 
Bechamel Sauce. (See Meat and Fish Sauces.) 

CREAMED CELERY. 

Wash, scrape and cut the outside stalks of celery in one-inch 
pieces. Cook until tender in boiling salted water or white stock. 
Drain, and re-heat in one cup Thin White Sauce. There should 
be two cups celer}^ 

BOILED GREEN CORN. 

Remove the outer husks; strip back the inner ones. Pick 
out all the silky threads, fold back the husks and cook corn 
in boiling salted water from ten to twenty minutes, according 
to age of corn. Add salt last ten minutes of cooking. Drain 
well and serve on platter in napkin, folding the corners over 

the corn. 

CORN FRITTERS. 

I cup canned corn J4 cup flour 

I egg well beaten i teaspoon sugar 

Salt and pepper 
Process: Mix corn, flour, sugar; add salt and pepper to 
taste; add well beaten egg; beat thoroughly and drop on a 
well greased hot griddle about the size of N. Y. count oysters. 
Brown on one side; turn and brown on the other. Serve with 
fried chicken or chicken croquettes. 

SUCCOTASH. 

Cut hot boiled corn from the cob; add equal quantity of hot 
boiled lima beans, the latter cooked in boiling salted water 
or white stock. Dot over thickly with butter seasoned with 
salt and pepper. 

SLICED CUCUMBERS. 

Freshen cucumbers by allowing them to soak several hours 
in cold water. Remove a thick slice from both ends; pare, 
being careful to remove all the green rind. The paring contains 



92 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

the bitter principle and should be entirely removed. Hold cu- 
cumber in the left hand firmly while you slice with a sharp 
knife in very thin slices, keeping the cucumber intact. Chill 
again by setting in a cold place closely covered. Arrange in 
a celery dish, placed in crushed ice and serve with French dress- 
ing. 

FRIED EGG PLANT. 

Pare an egg plant and cut in one-quarter inch slices; sprinkle 
with salt; place in a puree strainer; cover with a plate on 
'which place a weight to press out the acrid juice. Let stand 
from one to two hours. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge 
with flour and saute slowly in equal parts butter and lard until 
crisp and brown. Egg plants are at their best from December 
to February. 

DANDELIONS. 

Wash thoroughly, pick over carefully and remove -wilted 
leaves and roots. Drain and cook one hour or until tender, 
in boiling salted water, allowing two quarts of water to one 
peck dandelions. Season with butter, salt and pepper and serve 
with vinegar and hard cooked eggs. A piece of bacon scalded 
and scraped may be cooked with the dandelions if the flavor 
of bacon is desired. Butter may then be omitted. 

BOILED ONIONS. 

Select onions of a uniform size. Remove the skins under 
cold water; drain; place them in a sauce-pan and cover with 
boiling water. Place on range; bring to boiling point; boil 
briskly five minutes. Drain, and again cover with boiling salted 
water. Cook until tender but not broken. Drain; add thin 
cream or milk; simmer five minutes, then add butter, salt and 
pepper. 

FRIED ONIONS. 

Remove skins from six medium-sized onions. Slice thinly 
on cabbage cutter or with a sharp knife. Melt two tablespoons 
butter in an omelet pan; when bubbling add onions; mix well with 
butter and cook slowly until delicately browned, stirring con- 
stantly and shaking the pan occasionally to prevent onions 



VEGETABLES 93 



from scorching. Sprinkle with salt and pepper just before 
removing from fire. 

PARSNIPS IN BUTTER SAUCE. 

Wash and scrape parsnips and cut in strips two inches long, 
one-quarter inch wide and thick. Cook until tender in boiling 
salted water to cover. Drain; re-heat in one cup drawn but- 
ter sauce. There should be two cups parsnips. 

BOILED PEAS. 

Hull peas; freshen in cold water one-half hour. Skim off bits 
of hull, pods and undeveloped peas that rise to top of water. 
Drain; cook until tender in boiling water to cover; add salt 
last ten minutes of cooking. There should be very little 
water left to drain from peas when they are tender. Dot over 
with butter; season with salt and pepper. One teaspoon sugar 
may be added to peas when cooking if they have lost some 
of their natural sweetness. 

STUFFED PEPPERS. 

1 onion finely chopped J^ cup Brown Sauce 

2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons bread crumbs 
4 tablespoons chopped mush- Few grains cayenne 

rooms Salt and pepper 

4 tablespoons ham and chicken 8 peppers parboiled ten minutes 

or equal parts ham and 

chicken finely chopped 
Process: Cook onion with butter five minutes without 
browning. Add mushrooms, ham and chicken; cook one min- 
ute. Moisten with brown sauce; add bread crumbs and sea- 
sonings Fill peppers with cooked mixture, cover with but- 
tered crumbs and bake in buttered gem cups in a hot oven ten 
minutes. Serve on rings of toast with Brown Sauce. 

BOILED SPINACH. 

Remove wilted leaves and roots, carefully pick over and 
wash in several waters, one peck spinach. Cook in sauce-pan 
and, if young, bring gradually to the boiling point and cook 



94 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

twenty to twenty-five minutes or until tender in the water which 

clings to the leaves and its own juices. Older spinach is best 

cooked in boiling salted water, allowing two quarts boiling 

water to one peck spinach. Drain in colander, chop fine, return 

to sauce-pan and re-heat; season with butter, salt and pepper. 

Dispose in serving dish in mound shape ; garnish with halves 

of hard cooked eggs arranged at base of mound with cut sides 

out, placing eggs close together. A thin slice may be removed 

from the lower edge of each half to keep it in place. The color 

of spinach is preserved by cooking in a large quantity of water 

uncovered. 

BOILED SUMMER SQUASH. 

Wash white round or yellow crook-neck squash. Cut in thin 
slices and cook twenty-five minutes in boiling salted water until 
tender. Turn into two thicknesses of cheese cloth placed over 
a sieve and drain. Wring cheese cloth by taking the ends in 
hands and twisting in opposite directions. When moisture is 
squeezed out mash squash and season with butter, salt and 
pepper. 

BAKED HUBBARD SQUASH. 

Split a Hubbard squash and cut in uniform pieces. Remove 
the seeds and stringy parts. Place in a dripping pan; sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. Add one-half teaspoon molasses or brown 
sugar and one teaspoon butter to each piece of squash. Bake in 
a moderate oven until tender. Cover the first half hour of cook- 
ing. Serve in folded napkin in the shells. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 

Wash, wipe and remove the skin from six medium-sized to- 
matoes. Cut out the stem end and cut in one-quarter pieces. 
Place in sauce-pan and cook slowly twenty minutes, stirring 
often. Add two teaspoons sugar; season with butter, salt and 
pepper. An eighth teaspoon soda may be added if there are 
objections to the acid of the tomatoes. 

BAKED TOMATOES. 

Select eight tomatoes of uniform size. Wash, wipe and re- 
move a thin slice from the stem ends. Scoop out seeds and 



VEGETABLES 95 



pulp. Add to pulp an equal quantity of medium fine cracker 
crumbs. Season with salt, pepper, onion juice and two tea- 
spoons sugar. Re-fill tomatoes with mixture, place in buttered 
baking dish, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and bake twenty- 
five minutes in a hot oven. 

CREOLE RICE. 

4 tablespoons butter Canned pimientoes or red 

I cup rice peppers 

3 cups highly seusoned brown 
stock 
Process: Melt butter in an iron spider. Add rice and stir 
constantly until rice is well parched. Bring stock to boiling 
point; add rice and cook in a double boiler until tender. Turn 
on serving platter and garnish with pimientoes cut in fancy 
shapes and heated in their own liquor. Green or red peppers 
may be used if previously cooked until tender. 

MASHED TURNIPS. 

Wash and pare purple top turnips; cut in slices or quarters 
and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain well; mash 
and season with butter, salt and pepper. One or more table- 
spoons cream added to mashed turnips improves their flavor. 

SAUTED MUSHROOMS. 

Wipe one pound mushrooms with a piece of cheese cloth 
wrung from cold water; peel caps and remove stems. Melt four 
tablespoons butter in a hot omelet pan; when melted add mush- 
rooms which have been previously dredged with flour and a 
drop of onion juice added to each cap. Sprinkle with salt and 
pepper and simmer ten minutes. Add one teaspoon finely 
chopped parsley, and one-fourth cup White Stock or cream. 
Cook two minutes and serve on circles of toast. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Wash with a vegetable brush five medium-sized potatoes. 
Pare and cut in slices. Put in stew-pan and cover with boiling 
salted water. Cook until soft. Drain and pass through potato 



96 ' THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

ricer. To hot riced potato add three tablespoons butter; season 
with salt and white pepper; moisten with one-third cup hot 
milk or cream. Beat with a fork until fluffy and creamy. 
Reheat over hot water. Serve in hot vegetable dish; dot over 
with small bits of butter and sprinkle lightly with pepper. The 
secret of success in making mashed potatoes is to mash and 
season the potatoes and serve hot as quickly as possible. They 
become sodden when cold or allowed to stand. 

MASHED POTATO A LA ELIZABETH. 

To mashed potatoes add one tablespoon finely chopped 
chives or two tablespoons finely chopped onions, mixed well. 
Turn into a serving dish and make depressions here and there 
in the potatoes and add small bits of butter. Or force through 
pastry bag and rose tube into serving dish. This mixture makes 
a very palatable stuffing for geese and ducks. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

Scrub the potatoes with a vegetable brush; bake in a hot 
oven. The temperature should be such that will render a 
potato of medium size soft in center, when pierced with a small 
wooden skewer, in forty to forty-five minutes. Break potatoes 
as soon as they are done, and press gently to allow steam to 
escape. This is especially necessary if the potatoes must stand 
any length of time; serve in a folded napkin. 

POTATOES ON THE HALF SHELL. 

Follow the recipe for baked potatoes and remove a thin slice 
from the side lengthwise of potato; scoop out the inside; pre- 
pare as mashed potatoes; return to the shell, using a pastry 
bag and rose tube; brush over with slightly beaten egg and re- 
turn to oven to brown delicately. 

POTATO CAKES. 
Beat two cups of left-over mashed potatoes with a very lit- 
tle hot milk to lighten them. Season with a few drops onion 
juice, salt, pepper, one-half teaspoon parsley finely chopped, 



VEGETABLES 97 



one-fourth cup grated cheese and a few grains cayenne. Shape 
in small round flat cakes; dip in flour and saute in hot butter 
(about two tablespoons), brown on one side, turn and brown on 
the other. This mixture may be packed in a brick shape 
mould, then turned on a board and sliced, dipped in flour and 
sauted in butter as the round cakes. 

CREAMED POTATOES. 

Cut cold boiled or baked potatoes in one-fourth-inch cubes. 
(There should be two cups). Sprinkle with salt, pepper and 
one-half teaspoon finely chopped parsley; add a few drops onion 
juice if desired. Re-heat in one and one-half cups thin White 
Sauce. This mixture may be turned into a buttered baking 
dish, sprinkled with buttered crumbs and baked in a hot oven 
until mixture is heated throughout and crumbs are brown. 

HASH BROWN POTATOES. 

Cut fat salt pork in small pieces; try out and remove scraps; 
there should be four tablespoons. Heat fat in an iron spider; 
add two cups cold boiled potatoes finely chopped; season well 
with salt and pepper. Toss potatoes until well mixed with 
fat; cook four minutes, tossing constantly; then press to one 
side of the spider to form an omelet. When well browned 
underneath turn on a hot serving dish, top side down. This 
gives potatoes the appearance of a folded omelet. 

LYONNAISE POTATOES. 

Cook one onion thinly sliced in three tablespoons butter 
until delicately browned. Remove onion and keep in a warm 
place. 'Add three cups cold boiled potatoes, cut in slices; 
sprinkle with salt, pepper, and stir until well mixed with but- 
ter. Press to one side of spider and let brown richly under- 
neath, then sprinkle onions over potatoes; let heat thoroughly; 
turn on a hot serving platter, top side down; sprinkle with 
finely chopped parsley. Cooking the onion separately lessens 
the danger of burning. 



98 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



BURR OAK FARM POTATOES. 

Slice four medium-sized cold boiled potatoes. Put a layer 
in the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish; sprinkle with a lit- 
tle onion juice, salt and pepper. Slice over potatoes "hard 
boiled" eggs; sprinkle eggs with salt and pepper. Repeat until 
dish is filled. Pour over two cups thin White Sauce ; cover 
with buttered crumbs and place in oven until heated throughout 
and crumbs are brown. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. 

2 cups hot riced potatoes % teaspoon celery salt 

2 tablespoons butter Few grains cayenne 

J4 teaspoon salt Few drops onion juice 

yi teaspoon white pepper Yolk one egg 

I teaspoon finely chopped parsley 
Process: Mix ingredients in the order given; beat mixture 
thoroughly. Spread on plate to cool. Shape and dip in crumbs, 
egg and crumbs; fry in deep hot fat. Drain on brown paper. 
Arrange in a pyramid on a folded napkin; garnish with parsley. 

GERMAN FRIED POTATOES. 

Slice cold boiled potatoes one-eighth inch thick. (There 
should be two and one-half cups). Put four tablespoons "tried 
out" salt pork fat in an iron spider; when hot, add one sliced 
onion; cook until onion is delicately browned. Remove onion 
and keep warm; add potatoes; season with salt and pepper; 
mix thoroughly with fat, shaking the spider occasionally, when 
potatoes are browned; add onion; when thoroughly mixed and 
heated turn into hot dish and serve at once. 

BOILED SWEET POTATOES. 

Select the desired number of uniform sized potatoes. Scrub 
with a brush and cook twenty-five minutes, or until tender in 
boiling salted water to cover. Drain; remove skins and serve 
in folded napkin. Do not allow them to stand in kettle in 
which they were cooked without first laying a tea towel over 



VEGETABLES 99 



them, then the cover. The moisture which condenses on the cover 
will be absorbed by the towel and prevent potatoes from be- 
coming sodden. 

PUREE OF SWEET POTATOES. 

Boil until soft, four large sweet potatoes; remove the skins 
and pass through the ricer. Add four tablespoons butter and 
hot milk or cream to moisten, season with salt, and beat until 
light and fluffy. Shape with a pastry bag and rose tube into 
roses, croustades, borders, etc. 

SWEET POTATO AND NUT CROQUETTES. 
Bake six medium-sized sweet potatoes. When tender, break 
them open, scoop out the pulp and force through a potato ricer. 
To two cups potatoes add one teaspoon salt, three tablespoons 
butter, one egg slightly beaten, one-fourth cup blanched and 
chopped almonds or English walnuts, and sufficient hot cream 
or milk to moisten the mixture. Shape into balls, apple or 
cork-shaped croquettes. Roll in cracker crumbs, egg and 
crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat; drain on brown paper. If made 
apple shape, make a slight depression in each and introduce a 
clove for the blossom end and use a sprig of parsley or an 
apple leaf (if in season), for the stem end. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALADS. 

FRENCH DRESSING No. i. 

J/2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons olive oil 

14 teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons vinegar 

Few grains cayenne i clove garlic 

Ice 

Process: Rub the bowl in which dressing is mixed with the 
clove of garlic. Put salt, pepper and cayenne in bottom of 
bowl; add vinegar and oil. Put a cube of ice in mixture and 
beat thoroughly. When thickened, remove ice and dress the 
salad immediately. 

FRENCH DRESSING No. 2. 

6 tablespoons olive oil i tablespoon lemon juice 

2 tablespoons grape fruit juice J.-4 teaspoon salt 
J4 teaspoon paprika 
Process: Put salt and paprika in the bottom of bowl; add 
olive oil; mix fruit juice and add slowly to first mixture; beat 
thoroughly and serve with fruit salad. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING. 

I teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons lemon juice 

Few grains cayenne i tablespoon vinegar 

Yolks 2 eggs lYz cups olive oil 

Process: Pack the bowl in which the dressing is to be made 
into a larger bowl half filled with cracked ice; sift salt and 
cayenne in smaller bowl; add egg yolks and stir until well 
mixed; add one and one-half teaspoons lemon juice; add the 
first fourth of a cup of oil, drop by drop, stirring constantly. 

100 



SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALADS 



As the mixture thickens add a teaspoon of vinegar or lemon 
juice alternately with the oil. After the first fourth cup has 
been beaten in, the mixture should be the consistency of boiled 
custard ;then add the oil in larger quantities, beating constantly, 
and alternately oil, vinegar, and lemon juice until all are used. 
If oil is added faster than the egg yolks can absorb it, the 
dressing will have a curdled appearance. This may be re- 
stored to the proper consistency by putting another yolk into 
a chilled bowl and slowly beating in the curdled mixture. It 
is verj' necessary to have all the ingredients thoroughly chilled 
and a small wooden spoon may be used for stirring in the first 
fourth cup of oil; the Dover egg beater may be used to finish 
tlie process.. Mayonnaise dressing should be stiff enough to 
keep its shape. It separates very quickly when exposed to 
changes in temperature. It should be kept in a cold place and 
added to fruits, vegetables, meats or fish just before serving 
them. 

SOUR CREAM SALAD DRESSING. 

Add to one cup sour cream one tablespoon lemon juice or 
vinegar, one teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon paprika and 
one-fourth teaspoon ground mustard and onion juice to taste. 
Beat mixture until firm. Serve with string beans, potato salad, 
lima bean salad, all of which should be marinated with French 
Dressing before adding the Cream Dressing. 

MRS. KILLER'S BOILED SALAD DRESSING. 

1 tablespoon salt Yolks 4 eggs 

J^ tablespoon mustard 1/3 cup melted butter 

2 tablespoons sugar ^4 cup milk 

Few grains cayenne J4 cup vinegar diluted with 

I tablespoon corn starch 2 tablespoons cold water 

Process: Mix and sift the dry ingredients; add egg yolks 
slightly beaten, butter, milk, and diluted vinegar, the latter very 
slowly while beating constantly. Cook in double boiler until 
mixture thickens. Cool and thin with cream if necessary. 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



BACON SAUCE. 

5 tablespoons strained bacon J^ teaspoon salt 

fat 1/3 cup vinegar 

2 tablespoons flour Yz cup hot water 

% teaspoon paprika Yolks 2 eggs 

Cream 
Process: Heat bacon fat in a sauce-pan; add flour and stir 
until well mixed. Add hot water to vinegar and add slowly to 
first mixture while stirring constantly; add seasoning and yolks 
of eggs, slightly beaten. Do not allow sauce to boil after eggs 
are added; chill and thin with cream to the consistency to pour. 
Serve with spinach, dandelion, endive, chicory, corn salad or 
lettuce. 

SAUCE TARTARE. 

To one cup of Mayonnaise Dressing add one finely 
chopped shallot, one half tablespoon each capers, gerkins, chives 
parsley and one-half teaspoon fresh tarragon all finely chopped; 
mix thoroughly; chill, and serve at once. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

Cut the breast of cold boiled fowl into one-half inch cubes; 
add twice the quantity of the tender hearts of celery, cut in 
one-half inch pieces; add one cup of English walnut meats, 
broken in pieces, in the proportion of two cups each of the first 
two ingredients; mix thoroughly and serve with Boiled Salad 
Dressing. Garnish with "hard boiled eggs" and curled celery. 

SWEETBREAD SALAD. 

Boil one pound of sweetbreads in salted and acidulated 
water twenty minutes, drain and plunge into cold water for 
five minutes; drain and dry; cut into one-fourth inch cubes 
which will equal onQ and one-half cups; add to this one and 
one-half cups cucumber cut in one-fourth inch cubes (one and 
one-fourth medium sized cucumbers will make the desired 
quantity), one cup English walnut meats cut in pieces; toss 
lightly together with a fork; serve with Boiled Salad Dressing. 



SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALADS 103 



LOBSTER SALAD. 

Remove the meat from a two and one-half pound lobster; 
cut into one-half inch cubes; add to this one and one-half cups 
cucumber; cut in one-fourth inch cubes. Serve with Mayon- 
naise Dressing. Garnish with lobster claws and lobster coral. 

SALMON SALAD. 

If fresh salmon is used for this purpose it should be cut 
from the tail of the fish, in slices two inches thick, tied in 
cheese cloth and cooked in salted acidulated water fifteen 
minutes, drained and chilled, then separated into flakes with a 
silver fork; or it may be left whole and marinated with a 
French Dressing; surround with a border of cucumbers cut in 
one-fourth inch cubes. Mask the fish with a Mayonnaise Dress- 
ing; garnish with slices of lemon sprinkled with finely chopped 
parsley and sprigs of parsley. 

If canned salmon is used, it should be drained from the 
liquor, the skin and bones removed, disposed on a chilled ser- 
ving platter and garnished the same as the fresh salmon. This 
meat should never be minced when used as a salad. 

SPECIAL POTATO SALAD. 
Boil in salted water in the jackets six medium sized po- 
tatoes, peel and chill; cut into one-fourth inch cubes; to this 
add one cup cucumber cut in one-fourth inch cubes, one medium 
sized onion, finely chopped, one tablespoon each of green and 
red pepper finely chopped, one cup of blanched and shredded 
almonds; toss lightly together, using two forks; serve with 
Boiled Salad Dressing; chill before serving. 

HOT POTATO SALAD. 

Shred one-fourth pound of thinly sliced bacon with the 
shears; cook in a hissing hot frying-pan until crisp. Skim out 
the shreds of bacon and saute in the hot fat one finely chopped 
onion until a golden brown; measure fat and add half the quan- 
tity of vinegar, salt if necessary, and a few grains of cayenne; 



I04 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

add half the quantity of hot chicken stock or water and mix 
well. Remove the skins from hot boiled potatoes; slice enough 
into the hot mixture to absorb the liquid, add shreds of bacon, 
and toss all lightly until well mixed. S3rve at once. 

CORN SALAD. 

To two cups cold boiled sweet corn cut from the cob add 
a sprinkle of ground mustard and one-half tablespoon of grated 
onion; marinate with French Dressing No. i and let stand 
one hour; drain and arrange in a bed of endive, cress, or let- 
tuce hearts. Serve with Bacon Sauce. 

LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD. 

Peel and chill four small sized tomatoes, cut in quarters 
and arrange each in a nest of heart lettuce leaves; strew over 
tomatoes fine shreds of Spanish onion; marinate with French 
Dressing No. i and mask with Mayonnaise Dressing, using 
pastry bag and rose tube. 

PINEAPPLE AND TOMATO SALAD. 

Peel and chill firm ripe tomatoes of a uniform size. Cut 
in one-third inch slices; dispose a slice of tomato over a slice 
of chilled canned Hawaiian pineapple arranged in a nest of 
heart-lettuce leaves. Mask with Mayonnaise. 

POINSETTIA SALAD. 

Select the desired number of small, firm tomatoes; peel 
and chill ; with a sharp knife cut them in eighths ; drain slices 
of canned Hawaiian pineapples from their liquor; arrange 
and chill; with a sharp knife cut them in eighths; drain 
in a nest of lettuce heart leaves and cut like a pie in five sections; 
place a slice of tomato cut side down into each one of these cups, 
letting the tomato radiate from center, forming five red petals; 
fill center with curled parsley; marinate with French Dressing 
No. 2 and force Mayonaisse Dressing through pastry bag ajid 
tube around the curled parsley in center of each; serve very cold. 
This is an attractive salad for the holiday season. 



SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALADS 105 



WATER CRESS AND CUCUMBER SALAD. 
Wash, pick over and remove roots from vi^ater cress, drain 
and chill; arrange a border in shallow dish. Pare and cut into 
one-fourth inch dice two medium sized cucumbers, chill and ar- 
range in the center of cress; sprinkle over two tablespoons of 
finely chopped chives or thinly sliced onion; serve with French 
Dressing No. i. 

POMONA SALAD. 

Cut four Jonathan apples into straw shape pieces one inch 
long: add half the quantity of hearts of celery cut in same 
shape ; add one cup blanched and shredded Jordan almonds ; 
toss together lightly and serve in nest of cress, endive, or let- 
tuce hearts; marinate with French Dressing No. 2 and garnish 
with Mayonnaise. This salad will be found particularly appe- 
tizing served with game, domestic ducks, geese, or roast pork. 

ORANGE AND NUT SALAD, ASTOR STYLE. 
Remove the pulp from four large oranges, cut each in 
eights and divide these in halves. Marinate with French Dress- 
ing. Marinate an equal quantity of English walnuts, using the 
halves; toss together lightly with a fork and arrange each por- 
tion in nests of lettuce heart leaves; sprinkle with finely 
chopped hearts of crisp celery and inask with Maj'^onnaise. 

PRUNE SALAD. 

Wash the prunes thoroughly; cover with cold water; let 
soak over night; cook until tender in the same water; add 
sugar the last five minutes of cooking. Cool and drain; with a 
small sharp knife make an incision in one side of each and re- 
move the pits. Toast as many almonds as you have prunes and 
roll over each nut meat one teaspoon homemade cottage or Neuf- 
chatel cheese; refill prunes, pressing edges half over filling. Dis- 
pose four medium size or three large prunes in nests of lettuce 
heart leaves; marinate with French Dressing No. 2, and mask 
with Mayonnaise. 



CHAPTER XV. 



ENTREES. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

2 Clips cold chicken finely Few grains cayenne 

chopped Slight grating nutmeg 

J/2 cup English walnut meats i teaspoon lemon juice 

chopped moderately Few drops onion juice 

% teaspoon salt i teaspoon finely chopped 

% teaspoon celery salt parsley 

I cup thick White Sauce 
Process: Mix the ingredients in the order given, mould in 
cork shape croquettes, using a heaping tablespoon of the mix- 
ture for each croquette. Roll in crumbs, dip in egg and roll 
again in crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper. 
Serve with Bechamel Sauce or Sauce Supreme. 

CREOLE CROQUETTES. 

I cup raw beef or veal finely i teaspoon salt 
chopped and packed sol- 34 teaspoon pepper 

idly Few grains cayenne 

ys cup uncooked rice 7 large cabbage leaves 

Process: Remove the fat and gristle from beef or veal (the 
cheaper cuts) pass meat through the meat chopper twice; wash 
rice thoroughly, add to meat, add seasonings; mix well. Cut 
out the thick vein of the cabbage leaves and parboil them two 
minutes from the time they begin to cook. Drain them and en- 
close a heaping tablespoon of meat mixture in each leaf; 
fasten with a small wooden skewer (tooth-pick); place in a 
granite or earthen baking dish; strain over tomato sauce; cover 
closely, place in a moderate oven and simmer one hour. (For 
Tomato Sauce No. 2, see chapter on meat and fish sauces.) 

106 



ENTREES 107 



EGGS POACHED IN GREEN PEPPERS. 

2 tablespoons butter Brown sauce 

I onion finely chopped Salt 

4 tablespoons finely chopped Pepper 

mushrooms Few grains cayenne 

4 tablespoons left-over ham 8 green peppers 

finely chopped 
Process: Cut slice from stem end of peppers; remove the 
seeds and pith, parboil eight minutes in sufficient water to cover. 
Remove from water; invert on plate to drain; melt butter in a 
sauce-pan; add onion; cook three minutes; add mushrooms and 
ham; cook mixture one minute; then moisten with sufficient 
Brown Sauce to spread; season highly with salt, pepper and 
cayenne. Line each pepper with a thin lawer of this mixture; 
break fresh eggs in a cup one at a time and slip carefully into 
pepper. Sprinkle the top with fine buttered bread crumbs, 
mixed with equal quantity of grated cheese; bake in the oven 
until eggs are set. Serve on rings of toast with Brown Sauce. 

OYSTERS AND SPAGHETTI A LA BECHAMEL. 

Cook two cups spaghetti broken in inch pieces in boiling 
salted water to cover, until tender. Drain and blanch. Butter 
small ramekins and line the bottom with a layer of spaghetti ; 
then a layer of oysters previously plumped in their own liquor; 
sprinkle with salt and pepper; add a layer of Bechamel Sauce 
(see chapter on meat and fish sauces). Repeat until dish is 
filled. There should be two layers of oysters and a layer of sauce 
should cover top. Sprinkle over thicklj-^ with buttered crumbs 
and place in hot oven until mixture is heated throughout and 
crumbs are brown. Time required will depend largely on size 
of baking dish. A large dish will require twenty minutes; 
smaller ones from twelve to fifteen minutes. 



io8 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



OYSTERS A LA BELLE. 

2 cups oysters Few grains nutmeg 

3 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons thick cream 
Yi teaspoon salt Yolks 2 eggs 

y% teaspoon pepper Paprika 

Process: Clean and pick over oysters. Melt butter in an 
omelet pan; add 03'sters and let cook until oysters are plumped 
and gills are curled; add seasoning and cream. Reduce heat and 
add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, stirring constantly; cook until 
mixture is slightly thickened. Serve in Puff Paste Patty Shells; 
sprinkle with paprika and garnish with sprigs of parsley. 

RICE CROQUETTES WITH JELLY. 

Yi cup rice Yolks of 2 eggs, slightly 

y2 cup boiling water beaten 

I cup scalded milk ^4 cup fine sugar 

I teaspoon salt grated rind of Yi lemon 

I tablespoon butter 
Process: Wash rice thoroughly; add to boiling water with 
salt; cover and let cook until the rice has absorbed water. To 
this add scalded milk; stir lightly with a fork, cover and steam 
until rice is tender. Remove from range; add egg yolks, butter 
and sugar; spread on a shallow plate to cool. Shape in balls the 
size of an egg, roll in fine cracker crumbs and make a depression 
in each to form a small saucer; dip in egg and again in crumbs. 
Each croquette should be well crumbed. Fry in hot fat, drain 
on brown paper and place a cube of jelly one-inch square in 
each croquette. Serve with game. 

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 

Drain the slices of canned pineapple from the liquor and dip 
each slice in the following batter; fry in hot fat, drain on soft 
brown paper and serve with fruit juice sauce, or sprinkle with 
powdered sugar. 



ENTREES 109 



BATTER No. i, FOR FRUIT FRITTERS. 

1 cup bread flour ]4 teaspoon salt 
I J/3 teaspoons baking powder J-^ cup milk 

2 tablespoons fine sugar J/2 tablespoon melted butter 

I egg, well beaten 
Process: Mix and sift the dry ingredients; add the milk 
gradually while beating constantly; batter must be smooth and 
creamy; add melted butter, then well-beaten egg. 

BANANA FRITTERS. 

4 bananas 3 tablespoons sherry wine 

1 tablespoon lemon juice Powdered sugar 

Process: Remove the skins from ripe bananas; cut in halves 
lengthwise, then cut halves in two pieces crosswise. Sprinkle 
with lemon juice and sherry; dredge heavily with powdered 
sugar, cover and let stand one-half hour; drain and dip each 
piece in Batter No. 2; fry in deep hot fat and drain on brown 
paper. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. For batter, 
see chapter on Batters and Doughs. 

CHEESE CROQUETTES. 

3 tablespoons butter i cup mild American cream 
4j4 tablespoons flour cheese, cut in small cubes 

Yi cup milk yi cup grated Parmesan cheese 

Yolks of two eggs Few drops onion juice 

Salt, pepper, and a few grains cayenne 
Process: Melt butter in a sauce-pan, add flour and stir to a 
smooth paste; add milk gradually while beating constantly, then 
add grated cheese. As cheese melts reduce the heat and fold in 
the cubes of cheese. Season highly with salt, pepper, a few grains 
of cayenne, and a few drops of onion juice. Place mixture in a 
shallow pan and chill; turn on a floured board and cut in strips 
one inch wide by two inches long. Dip in fine cracker crumbs, 
egg and crumbs again, fry a golden brown in hot fat. Drain on 
brown paper. 



no THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



CHEESE SOUFFLE. 

2 tablespoons butter Few grains cayenne 

3 tablespoons flour Yi cup scalded milk 
Yi teaspoon salt Vi cup grated cheese 
y% teaspoon mustard Yolks of 3 eggs 

Whites of 3 eggs 
Process: Melt butter in a sauce-pan; add flour and season- 
ing mixed and sifted; stir to a smooth paste; add milk gradually 
while stirring constantly; add cheese when well blended; re- 
move from range; add beaten yolks of eggs; mix well; cut and 
fold in the whites of eggs beaten stiff and dry. Pour mixture 
into a well-buttered baking dish, place in a moderate oven and 
bake twenty minutes. Serve immediately. 

CHEESE BALLS. 

i>4 cups grated cheese Vi teaspoon salt 

I tablespoon flour Few grains cayenne 

Whites of 3 eggs beaten stiff 
Process: Add flour and seasonings to cheese; then cut and 
fold in the whites of eggs; shape in balls the size of hickory 
nuts. Roll in cracker meal and fry in deep hot fat. Drain 
on brown paper and serve with salad or as cheese course. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



HOT PUDDINGS. 

BAKED CUSTARD. 
4 cups scalded milk Yi cup sugar 

6 eggs J4 teaspoon salt 

Grating of nutmeg 
Process: Scald milk in double boiler. Beat eggs slightly, 
add sugar and salt; pour on slowly scalded milk, stirring con- 
stantly. Strain mixture into buttered baking dish, set in pan 
of hot water. Sprinkle with nutmeg and bake in a moderate 
oven until firm (about twenty-five minutes). Custard is cooked 
sufficient if the blade of a silver knife comes out clean when 
introduced into custard. Serve hot or very cold. 

PLAIN RICE PUDDING. 
4 cups milk J/2 teaspoon cinnamon 

Yi cup rice i tablespoon butter 

Yi cup molasses J^ cup seeded raisins 

Salt 
Process: Wash rice; mix ingredients in the order given and 
pour into a buttered baking dish; bake three hours in a slow 
oven, stirring three times during first hour of cooking to pre- 
vent rice from settling. When stirring the last time add butter. 

CHOCOLATE RICE PUDDING. 

2 cups scalded milk Yi cup sugar 

54 cup uncooked rice Y^. teaspoon vanilla extract 

Yi teaspoon salt Y2 cup blanched and finely 
I tablespoon butter shredded almonds 

I square Baker's chocolate Whites two eggs 

melted J/2 cup whipped cream 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



Process: Add rice and salt to scalded milk and cook over 
hot water until rice is tender; add butter, sugar, melted choco- 
late, flavoring and almonds. Cut and fold the whites of eggs 
beaten stifif into whipped cream and add to first mixture. Pour 
into buttered pudding dish and bake twenty minutes in a mod- 
erate oven. Spread with a meringue made of the whites of 
three eggs beaten stifiF and one-half cup powdered sugar added 
gradually while beating constantly. Flavor with one-half tea- 
spoon vanilla extract. Return to oven and brown delicately. 

APPLE TAPIOCA. 

^ cup pearl tapioca 6 large sour apples 

Cold water % cup sugar 

2J/2 cups boiling water Few gratings lemon rind 

Salt 
Process: Soak tapioca an hour in cold water to cover; 
drain; add boiling water; season with salt. Core and pare ap- 
ples; place in buttered baking dish; fill the cavities with sugar 
and lemon rind ; pour over the tapioca and bake in a slow oven 
until apples are tender. Serve with cream and sugar. 

APPLE AND BROWN BREAD PUDDING. 

2 cups brown bread crumbs i egg 
2 cups chopped apples 2 tablespoons flour 

Yi cup finely chopped suet ^^2 teaspoon salt 

I cup seeded raisins Yz cup brown sugar 

I cup milk 
Process: Mix bread crumbs and apple; add suet, sugar, raisins 
mixed with flour, and salt ; add milk and beat thoroughly. Steam 
in buttered molds two hours. Serve with Lemon or Vanilla 
Sauce. 

QUEEN OF PUDDINGS. 

1 cup toasted bread cubes 3 eggs 

2 cups milk I teaspoon of vanilla 
J4 cup sugar 1 cup stewed apples 

Process: Cut the toasted bread in half-inch cubes; beat 
the yolks of the eggs and white of one together. Add sugar 



HOT PUDDINGS 



and vanilla; continue beating; add milk and beat until sugar is 
dissolved. Pour this custard over bread and bake in a moderate 
oven until firm ; remove from oven and cover with apples. 
Make a meringue of the remaining whites of eggs and one- 
fourth cup granulated sugar; add one-fourth teaspoon vanilla 
spread over apples; return to oven until meringue is delicately 
browned; serve hot with Hard Sauce or cream. Preserved 
fruits and jelly of any kind may be substituted for the apples. 

BREAD PUDDING. 

2 cups stale bread or cake Yi teaspoon salt 

crumbs i teaspoon vanilla or 

I quart scalded milk % teaspoon nutmeg 

Yz cup sugar J4 cup seeded and shredded 

3 tablespoons butter raisins 
3 eggs 

Process: Soak crumbs in milk; cool slightly; add sugar, 
butter and eggs, slightly beaten, salt, flavoring and fruit. Turn 
mixture into a buttered baking dish and bake slowly one hour 
in a slow oven; cover the first thirty minutes of cooking. When 
stale cake crumbs are used less sugar will be required. All 
crust should be trimmed off of both ^ake or bread. When stale 
bread is used the crust may be removed by the aid of a coarse 
grater. Serve with Hard, Vanilla or Foamy Sauce. 

STEAMED APPLE PUDDING. 

Fill a two-quart granite pudding mould two-thirds full of 
sliced sour apples. Butter the rim and edges of pan and the 
inside of cover. Cover with dough made as follows: Sift to- 
gether two cups flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, four teaspoons 
baking powder. Add three-fourths cup milk, mix with a knife, 
turn on lightly floured board and roll to fit the mould. Lay over 
apples. Cover closely and steam one hour in steamer, or place 
mould on a trivet in a kettle surrounded with water, being care- 
ful that water does not reach cover of mould, and cook one 
hour. Serve with Vanilla or Lemon Sauce. Remove cover 



114 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

from mould and loosen pastry around the edges. Lay serving 
platter over mould and invert it; remove mould, leaving crust 
on bottom and apples on top. Cut as a pie is served. If the 
apples are sweetened with molasses and two tablespoons of 
shortening is added to the dough before adding milk, then 
baked in oven, this is then called "Pandowdy." 

COTTAGE PUDDING WITH FRUIT. 

y3 cup butter J4 teaspoon salt 

I cup sugar 14 cup milk 

I egg lightly beaten ^2 teaspoon lemon 

i^ cups flour l4 teaspoon vanilla 

3 teaspoons baking powder Fruit and whipped cream. 

Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually while stirring 
constantly. Add egg beaten light without separating. Sift flour, 
baking powder and salt together and add alternately with milk 
to first mixture; add extract. Bake in buttered gem cups or 
a shallow buttered and floured pan twenty-five minutes. If baked 
in shallow pan, cut in squares. Cover with sliced bananas, straw- 
berries or peaches; sprinkle with sugar and mask with whipped 
cream. 

GINGER PUDDING. 

Yi cup butter % teaspoon salt 

J/2 cup sugar i tablespoon ginger 

I egg well beaten I cup milk 

2% cups flour % cup crystallized ginger cut 

35'2 teaspoons baking powder in very small pieces 

Process: Cream butter, add sugar gradually and beaten egg; 
mix and sift flour, baking oowder, salt and ginger; add alter- 
nately to first mixture with milk; add slightly floured ginger; mix 
well; turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two hours; serve 
with Vanilla Sauce. 



HOT PUDDINGS 



GRAHAM PUDDING. 

4 tablespoons butter i teaspoon salt 

Yi cup molasses V2 teaspoon cinnamon 

Yz cup milk J4 teaspoon cloves 

I egg I cup dates stoned and cut in 

\y2 cups graham flour small pieces 

y2 teaspoon soda 

Process: Melt butter and add molasses; milk and eggs 
lightly beaten. Mix and sift dry ingredients, add dates, and add to 
first mixture. Turn into buttered pudding mould, cover and steam 
tvi'o and one-half hours. Serve with Vanilla Sauce. One cup 
raisins seeded and shredded or the same quantity of figs finely 
chopped may be used in place of dates. 

YANKEE PLUM PUDDING. 

I cup suet Yi teaspoon salt 

I cup N. O. molasses i cup sweet milk 

3 cups flour I cup seeded and shredded 

I J/2 teaspoon soda raisins 

I teaspoon cinnamon i cup English walnut meats 

Y2 teaspoon cloves broken in pieces 

Y2 teaspoon nutmeg 

Process: Pick the tissue and stringy parts from suet; chop 

in chopping bowl very fine, then work to a cream with hands; 

add molasses; sift together flour, soda, spices and salt; add 

alternately with milk, reserving enough flour to dredge raisins 

and nut meats; mix well and turn into buttered moulds. Steam 

three hours. Serve with Brandy Sauce. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
2 cups flour I cup cream 

Y2 teaspoon salt 6 small snow apples 

4 teaspoons baking powder i cup sugar 
I tablespoon lard 2 cups cold water 

Process: Mix and sift flour, salt and baking powder; ruB 
in shortening with tips of fingers; add cream gradually, cutting 



ii6 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

and mixing with a knife to a soft dough, and toss on a floured 
board; pat and roll to one inch in thickness. Shape with large bis- 
cuit cutter; place in the center of each piece a small snow apple 
previously pared and cored; enclose apples, pressing the edges 
of dough; roll in the hands the shape of a ball; place in a but- 
tered dripping pan two inches apart. Sift sugar around dump- 
lings; pour on cold water; bake in a hot oven twenty minutes, 
basting three times with liquor in pan. Serve with Hard, Apricot 
or Creamy Sauce. 

APRICOT ROLL. 

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons butter or lard 

1-4 teaspoon salt H cup thin cream 

4 teaspoons baking powder Apricot marmalade 

Process: Mix and sift flour, salt and baking powder; rub 
in butter with tips of fingers; add cream gradually; use a knife 
for mixing; turn on a well floured board, knead slightly and 
pat and roll to one inch thickness. Spread with apricots stewed 
and strained from their liquor. Reserve the latter and rub the 
fruit through a puree strainer. Sweeten both to taste. Roll 
like a jelly roll; press edges together, place in buttered drip- 
ping pan and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven, basting 
three times with the liquor — there should be one cup of the 
latter. Serve hot with whipped cream sweetened and flavored, 
or Hard Sauce. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



PUDDING SAUCES. 

LEMON SAUCE. 

Sift together one cup fine granulated sugar; one tablespoon 
corn starch; one-eighth teaspoon salt; add slowly one cup boiling- 
water while beating constantly. Cook five minutes; remove from 
range and add two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons lemon 
juice, a slight grating of lemon rind; strain. A few grains of 
nutmeg may be added. 

VANILLA SAUCE. 

Prepare the same as Lemon Sauce, using one teaspoon of 
vanilla extract in place of lemon juice, rind and nutmeg. 

FRUIT JUICE SAUCE. 

Put two cups fruit juice in a sauce-pan placed on range; 
add gradually one cup sugar mixed with two teaspoons of ar- 
rowroot, stirring constantly; bring to boiling point and skim 
if necessary; cook five minutes. Sugar is often added to the 
juice of left-over fruits and the mixture cooked five minutes. 
When canning fruit and juice is left over, this may be canned 
after straining the same as fruit. When needed for pudding 
sauces prepare as directed in the foregoing. This sauce may 
be used for any of the hot puddings. 

CREAM SAUCE. 
Sweeten two cups of whipped cream to taste; flavor with 
lemon, orange, vanilla, brandy or nutmeg. 

CREAMY SAUCE. 

2 cups whipping cream Whites 2 eggs beaten stiflfand 

I teaspoon orange extract dry 

I cup powdered sugar 
117 



ii8 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Process: Flavor cream and whip until stiff. Add powdered 
sugar gradually while beating the whites of eggs; cut and fold 
into first mixture. Serve cold with baked Apricot, Peach or 
Apple Dumplings. 

APRICOT SAUCE. 

Drain canned apricots from their liquor and rub through a 

sieve (there should be three-fourths cup of pulp). Cut and fold 

into pulp three cups of whipped cream; sweeten to taste; chill 

and serve. 

FOAMY SAUCE. 

y2 cup butter i egg beaten very light 

I cup confectioner's sugar 3 tablespoons sherry wine 

Few grains nutmeg 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually, beating con- 
stantly; add beaten egg and sherry; turn into double boiler and 
beat briskly while heating. Turn sauce into hot sauce-boat and 
sprinkle with nutmeg. 

CARAMEL SAUCE. 

Caramelize one-half cup granulated sugar in an omelet pan, 

stirring constantly. When it is the desired color, add one-half 

cup boiling water slowly; stir until well blended; simmer gently 

ten minutes. Cool, and add a few drops of vanilla extract. Serve 

cold. 

BRANDY SAUCE. 

^ cup butter Vz cup hot milk or cream 

Yz cup fine granulated sugar 3 tablespoons brandy 

Yolks of two well beaten i tablespoon Jamaica rum 
eggs Whites of 2 eggs beaten 

y% teaspoon salt stifT 

Few grains of nutmeg 

Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually, beating con- 
stantly; add yolks of eggs and salt; pour on gradually hot milk 
or cream and cook in double boiler until mixture coats the spoon 
delicately; remove from range and add brandy and rum; pour 
this mixture slowly over the whites of eggs, beating constantly; 
turn into sauce-boat and sprinkle with nutmeg. 



PUDDING SAUCES 119 



BOILED CUSTARD. 

2 cups scalded milk % teaspoon salt 

4 egg yolks J/2 teaspoon vanilla or 

J4 cup sugar i tablespoon sherry wine 

Process: Beat yolks slightly; add sugar and salt; stir con- 
stantly while adding scalded milk slowly. Cook in double boiler. 
Continue stirring until mixture thickens the consistency of thin 
cream; strain immediately. Chill and flavor. Do not allow the 
water in double boiler to boil vigorously while cooking, as this 
will curdle the custard. Mixture should form a coating on the 
wooden spoon; it is then cooked sufificiently. 

HARD SAUCE. 

J^ cup butter i cup confectioner's sugar 

y2 teaspoon each lemon and vanilla and few grains nutmeg 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually and extracts 
drop by drop, beating constantly. Brandy may be used instead 
of extracts. Force the mixture through a pastry bag on serving 
dieh and sprinkle with nutmeg. Serve on hot puddings. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



COLD PUDDINGS. 

CORN STARCH PUDDING. 

2 cups scalded milk 5 tablespoons sugar 

4 tablespoons corn starch Whites of three eggs 

]4 teaspoon salt ^ teaspoon vanilla 

Process: Mix corn starch, sugar and salt; add scalded milk, 
stirring constantly until mixture thickens; cook thirty minutes 
in double boiler, stirring occasionally. Add the whites of eggs, 
beaten stiff; mix thoroughly; add flavoring. Pour into wet mould, 
chill, and serve with cold sweet cream. 

GOLDEN CORN STARCH PUDDING. 

Follow recipe for Ivory Corn Starch Pudding, substituting 
yolks of three eggs for the three whites. Flavor with one- 
fourth teaspoon each of vanilla and lemon extract. Mould, chill, 
and serve. 

CHOCOLATE CORN STARCH CONES. 

%. cup corn starch Whites of three eggs 

}4 cup cold milk ^2 teaspoon vanilla 

2 cups scalded milk Ij4 squares chocolate 

1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons sugar 

% teaspoon salt Blanched almonds 

Process: Dilute corn starch with cold milk; add sugar, salt 
and scalded milk. Melt chocolate over hot water; add sugar and 
enough of hot mixture to the consistency to pour. Combine 
mixtures and cook in double boiler twenty minutes, stirring 
continually. Remove from range; when slightly cool, cut and 
fold in the whites of eggs beaten stiff; add vanilla. Turn into 
wet cone-shaped moulds, decorated with almonds arranged like a 
star. Chill thoroughly, unmould and surround each with whipped 

120 



COLD PUDDINGS 



cream, sweetened and flavored. Force through pastry bag, using 
star tube. 

IVORY CREAM. 

I tablespoon granulated gelatine 4 tablespoons sugar 

1 tablespoon cold water >5 c"P Madeira wine or 

2 tablespoons boiling water i teaspoon vanilla 

3 cups whipped cream 
Process: Soak gelatine in cold water, then dissolve in boil- 
ing water; add sugar, wine or extract. Strain into a bowl placed 
in a pan of cracked ice and beat mixture until slightly thick- 
ened; then add whipped cream and continue beating until mix- 
ture is stiff enough to stand. Turn into individual moulds, first 
dipped into cold water. Serve with whipped cream; garnish 
with cubes of sherry or orange jell}'. 

SNOW PUDDING. 

I tablespoon granulated gela- i cup sugar 

tine 4 tablespoons lemon or orange 

4 teaspoons cold water juice 

I cup boiling water Whites of 4 eggs 

Process: Soak gelatine in cold water fifteen minutes; dis- 
solve in boiling water; add sugar, lemon or orange juice; strain 
and set aside to cool, stirring occasionally; when thick and jelly- 
like, beat with a wire whisk until mixture is fluffy, then add 
the whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue beating until mix- 
ture holds its shape; turn into moulds previously wet in cold 
water, and chill. Serve with boiled custard or caramel sauce. 

COFFEE JELLY. 

2 tablespoons granulated gela- i cup boiling water 
tine 6 tablespoons sugar 

y^ cup cold water 2 cups strong coffee 

y2 teaspoon vanilla 
Process: Soak gelatine thirty minutes in cold water; dis- 
solve in boiling water; strain through sieve; add to sugar and 
coffee; add vanilla. Turn into a ring mould and chill. Unmould 
on a cold glass platter and fill center of mould with whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored delicately with vanilla. 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



POMONA JELLY. 

Yz box granulated gelatine i cup boiling water 

Yz cup cold water 2 cups sweet cider 

2 tablespoons ginger syrup 

Process: Soak gelatine in cold water fifteen minutes, then 
dissolve in boiling water; add cider and sweeten to taste; add 
ginger syrup and strain into fancy individual moulds previously 
wet in cold water. Serve with roast pork, roast goose, etc. 

Ginger syrup may be obtained from preserved Canton ginger. 

JELLIED APRICOTS. 

Yi. box granulated gelatine i cup sherry or Madeira wine 

Yi cup cold water Yi cup orange juice 

xYi cups boiling water 2 tablespoons lemon juice 

I cup sugar Apricots and almonds 

Process: Soak gelatine in cold water fifteen minutes and dis- 
solve in boiling water; add sugar, wine, orange and lemon juice; 
strain mixture into a circular mould previously wet in cold 
water to the depth of one-half inch; place dish in ice-water and 
when mixture is chilled add the halves of canned apricots pre- 
viously drained from their liquor. Place a blanched and toasted 
almond in the seed cavity of each; place the cut side down and 
pour over the remaining mixture and let stand to harden; 
chill thoroughly and turn on serving platter and serve with 
apricot sauce. 

CARAMEL CUSTARD. 

Y2 cup sugar caramelized 6 eggs slightly beaten 

4 cups scalded milk Y2 teaspoon salt 

I teaspoon vanilla extract 
Process: Caramelize sugar in an iron omelet pan, stirring con- 
stantly until melted and turned to a light brown color; then add 
slowly scalded milk, using care that the mixture does not boil 
over. When sugar is dissolved in milk add mixture slowly to 
eggs slightly beaten; add salt and flavoring; strain into a but- 
tered baking dish and cook as baked custard. Chill and serve 
with caramel sauce. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



ICE CREAMS, ICES, ETC. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM. 

Make a syrup by cooking three-fourths cup sugar and one- 
half cup water together three minutes; cool, and add one quart 
cream and one and one-half tablespoons vanilla. Freeze. 

TUTTI FRUTTI ICE CREAM. 
To Philadelphia Ice Cream when frozen, add one cup of 
candied cherries, pineapple, apricots, pears, etc., cut in small 
pieces, softened in hot syrup or soaked in brandy or rum, then 
drained and cooled before adding to the frozen mixture. 

COCOA ICE CREAM. 

Yz cup cocoa I two-inch stick cinnamon 

I cup sugar 4 egg j^olks 

1 tablespoon corn starch 2 cups cream 

J4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons melted butter 

2 cups scalded milk i tablespoon vanilla 
Process: Mix cocoa, sugar, corn starch and salt; add scalded 

milk and stick of cinnamon; cook in double boiler twenty min- 
utes; beat egg yolks slightly; add cream, butter and vanilla. Add 
to first mixture; strain, chill and freeze. One cup of raspberry 
pulp may be added to this mixture before freezing and is con- 
sidered a great improvement by many. 

BANANA ICE CREAM. 

4 large bananas 4 tablespoons sherry wine 

2 tablespoons lemon juice Philadelphia ice cream 

Process: Remove the peel from the bananas; rub them 
through a puree strainer; add lemon juice and sherry; add this 
mixture to Philadelphia Ice Cream; mix and freeze. 

123 



124 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. 

1 5^ quarts thin cream Yz cup orange juice 

2 boxes strawberries 2^4 cups sugar 

Few grains salt 
Process: Pick over, wash and hull berries; cut in halves and 
sprinkle with sugar; cover and let stand two hours. Mash thor- 
oughly and rub through a puree strainer, then squeeze through 
one thickness of cheese cloth. Freeze cream to the consistency 
of mush and gradually add strawberries; mix and finish freezing. 
Rich, full milk may be used to substitute half the cream. 

HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE. 

I square Baker's chocolate i tablespoon butter 

I cup sugar Vz cup boiling water 

J/2 teaspoon vanilla 
Process: ]Melt chocolate in sauce-pan; add sugar, butter and 
boiling Avater; cook fifteen minutes, stirring constantly the first 
five minutes of cooking, then occasionally vintil mixture is done. 
Cool slightly and add vanilla. Serve hot with Philadelphia Ice 
Cream. 

HOT MAPLE SAUCE. 

Boil two cups maple sugar with one-half cup cream until it 
spins a thread; cool slightly and serve with Vanilla Ice Cream. 
Sprinkle each portion with chopped nuts. 



LEMON ICE. 

4 cups water ^ cup lemon juice 

2 cups sugar j4 cup orange juice 

Process: Prepare a syrup by boiling water and sugar to- 
gether twenty minutes. Add lemon and orange juice; cool, strain 
and freeze, using equal parts of salt and ice for freezing this 
mixture. 



ICE CREAMS, ICES. ETC. 125 



ORANGE ICE. 

4 cups water 3 thin shavings orange rind 

2 cups sugar 2 cups orange juice 

14 cup lemon juice 
Process: Prepare a syrup by boiling water, sugar and or- 
ange rind twenty minutes. Add orange and lemon juice and 
strain, cool and freeze. 

CREME DE MENTHE ICE. 

4 cups water ^ cup Creme de Menthe Cor- 

1 cup sugar dial 
Green vegetable coloring Mint leaves 

Process: Prepare a syrup by boiling water and sugar fif- 
teen minutes; add Cordial and fruit coloring; strain, chill and 
freeze. Serve in thin green glasses, decorating each portion 
with a sprig of mint. 

MARLBOROUGH SHERBET, 

2 cups water 34 cup lemon juice 

iJ/2 cups sugar i cup pineapple juice 

I cup seeded and shredded i teaspoon grated nutmeg 

raisins >< cup sherry wine 

^ cup orange juice Whites 3 eggs beaten stiff 

Process: Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten min- 
utes; pour over the raisins and let stand until cold, then add 
fruit juices and grated nutmeg; mi.x; turn into freezer and freeze 
to a mush; add wine and whites of eggs. Continue freezing. 

PINEAPPLE SORBET. 

2 cups water 2 cups ice water 

I cup sugar i can grated pineapple or 

Juice 4 lemons i fresh pineapple shredded 

% cup Benedictine cordial 
Process: Prepare a syrup by boiling water and sugar fifteen 
minutes; add pineapple and lemon juice. Chill, strain and add 
to ice water. Freeze to a mush, following directions for Lemon 
Ice; add whites of two eggs beaten stiff and continue freezing. 



126 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



FROZEN CRANBERRIES. 

4 cups cranberries 2j4 cups sugar 

Ys cup seeded raisins 2 cups boiling water 

Process: Pick over and wash cranberries and seeded raisins; 
cut raisins in halves; add to cranberries with sugar and water; 
cook fifteen minutes and skim when necessary. Rub through 
a puree strainer. Cool and freeze the same as Orange Ice. Serve 
as a substitute for cranberry jelly. 



CHAPTER XX, 



PASTRY AND PIES. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

3 eggs Few grains salt 

% cup sugar 2 cups scalded milk 

Few grains nutmeg 

Process: Beat eggs slightly; add sugar and salt; pour on 
milk slowly while stirring constantly. Strain mixture into a pie 
pan lined with paste; wet the rim of pie and lay around a strip 
of pastry cut one inch wide; press edges, and flute rim with the 
fingers; sprinkle with nutmeg. Bake in a hot oven at first to 
cook rim; after which reduce the heat, as this is largely an egg 
mixture and requires a moderate oven. 

LEMON PIE. 

«)4 cup sugar Yolks 3 eggs 

I cup boiling water 4 tablespoons lemon juice 

ij4 tablespoons corn starch Grated rind i lemon 

I tablespoon flour I/2 tablespoon butter 

Few grains salt 
Process: Mix and sift corn starch or flour, sugar and salt; add 
boiling water gradually while stirring constantly. Cook over 
hot water until mixture thickens. Remove from range; add but- 
ter, egg yolks slightly beaten, grated rind and lemon juice. Line 
a pie pan with Rich Paste; brush over with white of egg; turn 
into mixture which has been slightly cooled and bake until pas- 
try is well browned. Remove from oven, cool slightly and 
spread with meringue ; return to oven to bake and brown me- 
ringue. 

SQUASH PIE. 

I cup strained, steamed or ]4 c"P cognac 

baked squash i teaspoon cinnamon 

127 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



I cup cream J/2 teaspoon nutmeg 

I cup sugar i teaspoon ginger 

3 eggs slightly beaten Salt 

Process: Line a deep pie pan with Rich Paste; wet the 
edges and lay around a rim of pastry one inch wide; flute with 
the fingers and build up well. Wash over with the white of 
egg slightly beaten. Mix sugar and spices; add squash, eggs 
slightly beaten and cream slowly while beating briskly. Fill 
crust and bake thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Serve 
with whipped cream, hot or cold. 

APPLE PIE No. I. 

4 sour apples % teaspoon salt 

J/2 cup sugar J^ tablespoon butter 

J4 teaspoon nutmeg i teaspoon lemon juice 

Few gratings lemon rind 
Process: Line pie pan with paste. Wash, pare, core and 
slice apples in eighths (if apples are small five may be required). 
Arrange apples in jows around pan about one-half inch from 
rim; continue until apples are arranged in a pile in the center. 
Mix sugar, nutmeg, lemon juice and grated rind and strew mix- 
ture over apples. Drop butter in small bits over apples. Brush 
edges of under crust with water; place upper crust over apples 
and press the edges together, fluting rim with thumb and finger. 
Bake thirty-five to forty minutes in a moderate oven. Nutmeg 
and lemon may be omitted and one-fourth teaspoon cinnamon 
substituted. 

APPLE PIE No. 2. 

Make a pie with two crusts; fill with tart apples thinly sliced, 
heaping them in the center that the pie may be well filled. Add 
two tablespoons lemon juice and two tablespoons water; bake 
in a slow oven. When done remove the upper crust with a sharp 
knife, using great care not to break the crust. Add to apples 
two-thirds cup of sugar, one tablespoon butter, a sprinkle of salt 
and one-eighth teaspoon of grated nutmeg; mix carefully with 
silver fork; spread smoothly; replace the upper crust and sift 
powdered sugar thickly over the top. Serve hot with whipped 
cream sweetened and flavored. 



PASTRY AND PIES i2q 



RHUBARB PIE. 

Wash, peel and cut rhubarb in inch pieces; there should be 
three cups. Add to rhubarb one cup of sugar, two tablespoons 
of flour and one egg slightly beaten; mix well and bake between 
crusts. If the rhubarb is scalded before mixing with other in- 
gredients, less sugar will be required. This pie should bake 
thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. 

CHERRY PIE. 

2j^ cups pitted cherries Few grains salt 

Yj cup sugar Flour 

Process; Line a pie pan with paste. Drain cherries from 
their liquor and mix thoroughly with sugar and salt; fill pie and 
add one-half cup of cherry juice. Dredge with flour; wet edges 
of pie and lay around an inch-wide strip of pastry; brush this 
over with cold water and cover with upper crust; press the edges 
well, then flute with the thumb and finger. Bake forty to forty- 
five minutes in a moderate oven. Sprinkle top with powdered 
sugar. Serve hot. 

BLUEBERRY PIE. 
214 cups blueberries Few grains salt 

^^ cup sugar Flour 

Process: Line a pie pan with Rich Paste. Wash and pick 
over the berries; drain; turn into pie pan, rounding them 
slightly; dredge with flour; sprinkle with sugar and salt; cover 
and bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Two table- 
."-poons of currant juice added to the pie improves the flavor, 
particularly when huckleberries take the place of blueberries. 

MOCK CHERRY PIE. 

Mix one and one-half cups of cranberries, cut in halves; 
three-fourths cup of seeded and shredded raisins; one cup sugar 
and one tablespoon of flour. Pile this mixture in a pie pan lined 
with Plain Paste. Dot over with one tablespoon butter; add 
two tablespoons orange juice; cover with richer paste and bake 
as other pies. 



I30 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



MOCK MINCE PIE. 

4 Uneeda biscuit rolled i cup seeded and shredded rai- 

I cup sugar sins 

J/2 cup molasses J/2 cup currants 

Yz cup vinegar and lemon Yz cup butter 

juice 2 eggs well beaten 

Salt, cinnamon and cloves to taste 
Ptocess: Mix ingredients in the order given; add salt and 
spices to taste. Bake between two crusts; this quantity is fill- 
ing sufficient for two pies. 

GREEN TOMATO PIE. 

Green tomatoes The juice and grated rind 

Yi cup sugar Y2 lemon 

Y^ teaspoon salt 1Y2 tablespoons butter 

Process: Line a pie tin with Plain Paste; slice tomatoes into 
crust until slightly rounded in center; add remaining ingredi- 
ents. Cover with richer paste; flute the edges and bake thirty- 
five minutes in a hot oven. 

PLAIN PASTE. 

1Y2 cups flour Y2 teaspoon salt 

I teaspoon baking powder Yi cup lard 
Ice water 
Process: Mix and sift flour, baking powder and salt; work 
in the lard with the tips of the fingers, using a very light touch; 
add sufficient ice water to make a soft dough; toss on a floured 
board and roll to one-eighth inch thickness. Spread with one 
tablespoon lard, dust slightly with flour and roll like jelly roll; 
stand roll on end and pat into a circle; roll out again and spread 
with another tablespoon lard, roll and divide in equal parts; 
pat each part into a circle to fit the pie pan, keeping it in a cir- 
cular shape as nearly as possible. Line pie pan with paste; 
roll remaining half to one-fourth inch thickness; cut to fit 
pan, using a pastrj^ j agger. Use the trimmings for a rim 
around the edge of the lower crust. Fill pie with mixture; 
brush edges with cold water; place on upper crust; press edges 



PASTRY AND PIES 131 

together and flute with thumb and finger; dot over upper crust 
with a teaspoon of lard just before placing in the oven ; before 
removing from oven brush over with milk, which gives the pie 
a glazed appearance. 

RICH PASTE. 

I cup flour I tablespoon lard 

I teaspoon baking powder ^ cup of butter 

J4 teaspoon salt Ice water 

Process: Mix and sift flour, salt and baking powder; rub in 
lard with the tips of the fingers; moisten to a dough with ice 
water. Knead until smooth, then turn on a lightly floured 
board; pat and roll to one-fourth inch thickness. Divide the 
butter into three equal parts; dot over dough with small bits 
of butter, using one-third of the quantity at a time. Dredge 
lightly with flour. Fold ends of pieces toward center; double 
it in book fashion; chill, then pat and roll again, dotting over 
with second piece of butter; repeat until butter is used; chill 
the paste after adding each portion of butter; then shape as de- 
sired. This pastry should be baked in a hot oven. The plain 
paste in the foregoing may be used for the bottom crusts for 
pies, and the richer paste for the upper crusts. 

CHOU PASTE. 

Yi cup butter i cup flour 

I cup boiling water V^ teaspoon salt 

4 eggs 
Process: Melt butter in boiling water on range. When 
mixture boils add flour and salt mixed together; stir briskly until 
mixture is smooth and cleaves from sides of sauce-pan. Remove 
from range and add eggs unbeaten one at a time, beating until 
thoroughly mixed before adding another. Drop on a buttered 
tin sheet one and one-half inches apart from the tip of spoon in 
small mounds or force through a pastry bag. Bake thirty-five 
minutes in a moderate oven. When cool make an incision in 
each to admit of Cream Filling. If cakes are removed from oven 
before they are thoroughly baked they will fall. To test them 
remove one from the oven; if it keeps its shape it is proof that 
they are sufficiently cooked. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



CAKES, FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 

ONE EGG CAKE. 

4 tablespoons butter Yz cup milk 

Yi cup line sugar 1Y2 cups flour 

I egg beaten very light CiYi teaspoons baking powder 

34 teaspoon each of lemon and vanilla extract 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually and beaten egg. 
Mix and sift flour and baking powder; add to first mixture al- 
ternately with milk; add extract and bake in two buttered layer 
cake pans or in one shallow buttered pan. Frost with Plain 
or Chocolate Frosting. 

COCOANUT CAKE. 



34 cup butter 


Y& teaspoon salt 


2 cups fine sugar 


I cup milk 


Yolks 3 eggs beaten thick 


I teaspoon vanilla extract 


and light 


Whites 3 eggs beaten stiff 


• 3 cups flour 


and dry 


1Y2 tablespoons baking powder 


Cocoanut 



Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually, beating con- 
stantly; add beaten yolks of eggs; mix and sift flour, baking 
powder and salt; add alternately to first mixture with milk. 
Add extract and cut and fold in the whites of eggs. Bake in 
two square, well-buttered layer cake pans, spread with Boiled 
Frosting and sprinkle thickly with fresh grated cocoanut be- 
tween layers, top and sides. 

LADY BALTIMORE CAKE. 

Yi cup butter 4 teaspoons baking powder 

2 cups sugar i cup milk 

3^2 cups flour Whites 8 eggs 

I teaspoon almond extract 
132 



CAKES, FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 133 

Process: Cream the butter; add sugar gradually; mix and 
sift flour and baking powder; add alternately with milk to first 
mixture; add extract and whites of eggs beaten stiff and dry. 
Bake in two deep layer cake pans. 

Filling and Frosting: Mix four cups sugar, one-half teaspoon 
tartar; add one cup cold water; place on range; bring to boil- 
ing point; cook until mixture drops from tip of wooden spoon 
like honey; add one cup of this syrup to whites of four eggs, 
beaten stiff. Return remaining syrup to range and continue 
cooking until it spins a thread; remove from range and pour 
over egg mixture, beating constantly. As mixture thickens add 
two cups English walnut meats broken in pieces, and two cups 
of raisins seeded and cut in shreds; flavor with one teaspoon 
vanilla, spread between layers, over top and sides of cake. 

BOSTON VELVET CAKE. 

J/2 cup butter ^ teaspoon salt 

iVi cups sugar Yolks of 4 eggs beaten thick 

lYz cups flour 3^2 cup cold water 

Yz cup corn starch Whites 4 eggs beaten stiff and 

4 teaspoons baking powder dry 

Yz cup almonds blanched and shredded 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually, beating con- 
stantly: add yolks of eggs. Mix and sift flour, baking powder 
and salt; add alternately to first mixture with water; cut and 
fold in lightly beaten whites of eggs. Turn mixture into well- 
buttered shallow cake pan; sprinkle shredded almonds over top 
and bake thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven. This cake 
should not be frosted. 

CHOCOLATE NUT CAKE. 
Y2 cup butter 2 squares Baker's chocolate 

2 cups fine sugar Whites 4 eggs beaten stiff 

Yolks 4 eggs and dry 

I cup milk 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 

2Y3 cups flour ^/'4 cup English walnut meats 

4 teaspoons baking powder broken in pieces 

Y& teaspoon salt 



134 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

Process: Cream butter; add one cup of sugar gradually; 
beat yolks of eggs thick and light; add to them second cup 
of sugar, then combine the two mixtures. Melt chocolate over 
hot water; add to first mixture. Mix and sift flour, baking powder 
and salt; add alternately with milk; add nut meats and ex- 
tract; cut and fold in the lightly beaten whites of eggs. Turn 
mixture into a two-inch deep cake pan, buttered and lined with 
buttered paper. Bake thirty-five to forty minutes in a moderate 
oven. Spread with Marshmallow Frosting. 

WHITE CAKE. 

Yi cup of butter 3 teaspoons baking powder 

i^ cup? finely granulated sugar Yz teaspoon cream tartar 

Y2 cup milk Few grains salt 

2Y2 cups pastry flour Whites 8 eggs beaten stiflf 

Y2 teaspoon almond extract 
Process: Cream the butter; add sugar gradually, beating 
constantly. Mix and sift flour, baking powder, cream of tartar, 
and salt; add alternately to first mixture with milk; add ex- 
tract; cut and :'^ld in whites of eggs; mix well; let last motion 
be a beating motion. Turn mixture into two buttered granite 
brick-shaped bread pans, filling each two-thirds full. Bake in a 
moderate oven forty-five minutes. This mixture may be baked 
in shallow pans two inches deep, then cut in cubes and frosted. 

GOLDEN LOAF CAKE. 

Y2 cup butter Y2 cup milk 

I cup sugar 2 cups flour 

Yolks of 8 eggs 4 teaspoons baking powder 

I teaspoon orange extract 
Process: Cream the butter; add the sugar, gradually, and the 
yolks beaten very light; add extract. Sift together baking pow- 
der and flour; add alternately with milk. Beat thoroughly, and 
bake in a buttered, brick-shaped bread pan forty-five minutes. 
Spread if desired with Plain Boiled Frosting. 



CAKES, FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 135 



SUNSHINE CAKE. 

Whites of 10 eggs i teaspoon orange extract 

Yolks of 7 eggs I cup pastry flour 

iy2 cups confectioners' sugar i teaspoon cream tartar 

Process: Beat the whites of eggs in a large mixing bowl 
until stiff and dry; add sugar gradually, beating constantly; beat 
the yolks until thick and light; add to first mixture; add orange 
extract and cut and fold in flour sifted with cream of tartar. 
Sugar should be sifted several times. Flour should be sifted 
before measuring and five times after measuring. Turn into an 
ungreased angel cake pan and bake fifty minutes in a moderate 
oven. 

ANGEL CAKE. 
Whites II eggs i teaspoon cream of tartar 

% teaspoon salt i cup pastry flour 

lYz cups fine granulated sugar i teaspoon vanilla extract 

Process: Add salt to whites of eggs and beat until stiff 
and dry; sift in cream of tartar; add sugar gradually, beating 
constantly (using family size Dover egg beater); add extract, 
then cut and fold in the flour measured after sifting. Bake in 
angle cake pan previously wet with cold water, in a moderate 
oven one hour. Sift flour five times after measuring; also sugar. 
The two latter ingredients are always sifted before measuring 
for all purposes of this kind. A pan of hot water may be 
placed in the oven while this cake is baking. Spread with a 
Marshmallow Frosting. 

OLD FASHIONED SPONGE CAKE. 

Yolks 6 eggs 1J/2 tablespoons lemon juice 

iJ4 cups powdered sifted sugar Whites 6 eggs 

Grated rind J^ lemon i cup flour sifted five times 

^ teaspoon salt 

Process: Beat egg yolks until thick and light; add sugar 

gradually, beating constantly (Dover egg beater is best for this 

purpose); add lemon juice and rind; cut and fold in the whites 

of eggs beaten until stiflf and dry. When the whites are par- 



136 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

tially folded into the mixture add flour sifted with salt; con- 
tinue cutting and folding until ingredients are thoroughly 
blended. Bake forty-five minutes in an unbuttered shallow pan 
or one hour if baked in an angel cake pan in a moderate oven. 
This is a true sponge cake, requiring more beating than those 
which contain leavening agent of some kind. The air beaten 
into this mixture alone lightens it. 

CHOCOLATE FILLING. 

To Cream Filling add one square Baker's chocolate melted 
over hot water, then mix with one-fourth cup sugar. 
Beat until ingredients are thoroughly blended. 

CREAM FILLING. 

54 cup sugar 2 eggs 

6 tablespoons flour 2 cups scalded milk 

j/g teaspoon salt i teaspoon vanilla or 

yi teaspoon lemon or orange extract 
Process: Sift dry ingredients together; add eggs slightly 
beaten; pour on, slowly, scalded milk, beating constantly; cook 
mixture in double boiler twenty minutes, stirring constantly until 
mixture thickens, then occasionally cool and add flavoring. 

LEMON OR ORANGE AND COCOANUT FILLING. 

To the juice and grated rind of one lemon or orange, add 
one cup of confectioners' sugar, slowly, and the yolks of two 
eggs slightly beaten. Cook this mixture over hot water ten 
minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from range and add one 
cup of freshly grated cocoanut. Cool and spread between layers 
of white cake. Spread cake with Boiled Frosting and sprinkle 
thickly with freshly grated cocoanut. 

NUT AND FRUIT FILLING. 

To Marshmallow Frosting add one cup moderately chopped 
walnut, hickory nut or pecan nut meats; one-fourth cup each 
candied cherries, raisins, figs, candied orange, and lemon peel. 
Mix well and spread between layer cakes. 



CAKES, FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 137 



STRAWBERRY FILLING. 

I cup heavy cream whipped White i egg beaten stiff 

stiff 5 j cup strained strawberry pulp 

3.^2 cup confectioners' sugar ^ teaspoon orange extract 

Process: Add sugar slowly to whipped cream; fold in beaten 
white of egg; add strawberry pulp and extract. Chill and spread 
between layers of cake. 

FIG FILLING. 

K' pound figs finely chopped Y^ cup boiling water 
>4 cup sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice 

Slightly grated lemon rind 
Process: Put figs in a sauce-pan; add sugar, water, lemon 
juice and grated rind to taste. Cook over hot water until of 
the consistency to spread. Use as a filling between layers of 
Yellow or Gold Cake. 

PLAIN BOILED FROSTING. 

I cup granulated sugar White i egg beaten stiff 

y^ teaspoon cream tartar % teaspoon vanilla extract 

% cup cold water 
Process: Mix well sugar, cream tartar and cold water in a 
sauce-pan; place on range; bring to boiling point, stirring con- 
stantly. Then cook without stirring until the syrup drops from 
wooden spoon like honey. Remove from range; add three table- 
spoons of syrup to the white of egg, beating constantly; return 
remaining syrup to range and cook until it spins a thread; re- 
move from range at once and pour syrup into first mixture. 
Continue beating; add vanilla. Beat until frosting cools slightly 
and begins to glaze on sides of pan. Pour on cake, spread 
evenly, and let cool before cutting cake. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING. 

To Plain Boiled Frosting add one and one-half squares of 
chocolate melted, when the last portion of the boiled syrup is 
added to the egg mixture. Beat until of the consistency to 
spread. 



138 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

MARSHMALLOW FROSTING. 

2 cups sugar Whites of two eggs 
Yi cup cold water 9 marshmallows 

J4 teaspoon cream tartar ^ teaspoon vanilla extract 

Process: Mix sugar, cream of tartar and water in a sauce- 
pan. Place on range; stir until boiling point is reached; then cook 
without stirring until mixture drops from the tips of wooden 
spoon like honey. Remove from range and add seven tablespoons 
of the syrup to the whites of eggs previously beaten until stiff 
and dry, beating constantly. Return remaining syrup to range 
and continue cooking until it spins a thread. Brush the sugar 
and starch from marshmallows; put them in the oven to plump, 
but not to brown; add them to first mixture, then add remaining 
syrup and beat until ingredients are thoroughly blended. Add 
extract and continue beating until mixture glazes slightly on 
sides of vessel. Spread over cake as thickly as desired. 

GELATINE FROSTING. 

3 tablespoons strained hot i cup confectioners' sugar 

orange juice or water sifted 

y^ tablespoon granulated gela- J^ teaspoon lemon or vanilla ex- 
tine tract 
Process: Dissolve gelatine in hot orange juice or water. 
Add extract and gradually the sugar, beating constantly until 
mixture is of the consistency to spread. Let harden slightly, 
then crease in slices or squares according to shape of cake. 

MILK FROSTING. 

iy2 cups granulated or soft >^ cup milk 

brown sugar i teaspoon butter 

y2 teaspoon vanilla 
Process: Melt butter in a sauce-pan; add sugar and milk. 
Stir, to be sure that sugar does not stick to the sides of sauce- 
pan; bring to boiling point and cook without stirring twelve 
minutes. Remove from fire and beat until of the consistency 
to spread. Add vanilla; beat well until ingredients are well 
blended. Pour over cake and spread smoothly with spatula. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



SMALL CAKES, COOKIES AND 
GINGERBREAD. 

CREAM CUP CAKES. 

^ cup butter 4 egg yolks beaten very light 

I cup sugar i^ cups flour 

The grated rind and juice of Y^ teaspoon soda 

one-half orange Whites 4 eggs beaten stiff 

% teaspoon salt 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually, grated rind and 
juice of orange and the beaten egg yolks. Mix and sift flour, 
soda and salt; add to first mixture, beating constantly. Cut and 
fold in the whites of eggs; blend well and bake twenty min- 
utes in a moderate oven in very small, deep, well buttered, 
fluted cake pans. 

JACK HORNER CAKE. 

^4 cup butter Yz teaspoon mace 

I cup soft brown sugar i cup flour 

Yolks of 2 eggs Nut meats and candied cher- 

Whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff ries 

I tablespoon brandy 

Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually, while beating 
constantly; add yolks of eggs, flour sifted with mace; add 
brandy; cut and fold in lightly beaten whites of eggs; butter 
small tins; sprinkle with chopped nut meats; put into each a 
small quantity batter; place in center a candied cherry; cover 
with more of the mixture and sprinkle top with nut meats finely 
chopped. Bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. 

139 



I40 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



ENGLISH GINGER NUTS. 

I cup butter 1 1^> tablespoons ground ginger 

I cup light brown sugar 2 eggs 

I cup granulated sugar ^ cup finely chopped candied 

4 cups flour orange peel 

2 tablespoons brandy 

Process: Cream butter; add sugar graduallj^ beating con- 
stantly; add eggs beaten very light (without separating); 
add brandy, ginger sifted with flour; add orange peel. Beat 
thoroughly. Shape in balls, size of hickory nuts, and bake on 
buttered tin sheets in a quick oven. 

This mixture makes about four dozen little cakes. A small 
bit of candied cherry may be pressed in top of each before 
placing them in the oven. 

SOUR CREAM SEED COOKIES. 

Yi cup butter J/2 cup sour cream 

I cup fine granulated sugar 2^ cups bread flour 
I ^^^ beaten very light Yi teaspoon soda 

lYi tablespoons caraway seed 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually, stirring con- 
stantly; add well beaten egg and sour cream. Sift flour with 
soda; add caraway seeds, mix well and add to first mixture. 
Beat until ingredients are thoroughly blended. Drop from the 
tip of spoon on a buttered sheet two inches apart and bake 
in a moderate oven. 

CHOCOLATE FRUIT COOKIES. 

Y2. cup butter i cup English walnut meats 

1 cup sugar broken in pieces 

4 tablespoons chocolate melted i cup raisins seeded and 

2 tablespoons sugar shredded 
2 tablespoons boiling water 23^^ cups flour 

2 eggs beaten very light 2Y2 teaspoons baking powder 

I teaspoon vanilla 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually. Melt chocolate 
in a sauce-pan; add two tablespoons sugar and two tablespoons 



SMALL CAKES, COOKIES, AND GINGERBREAD 141 

hot water; cook one minute; cool slightly and add to first mix- 
ture; add eggs well beaten. Sift flour with baking powder; dredge 
raisins and nuts with four tablespoons of the flour and add both 
tlour and fruit to first mixture. Chill dough and drop from 
tip of spoon on a buttered sheet two inches apart. Bake in a 
moderate oven. Add more flour if necessary. 

NEW ENGLAND FRUIT COOKIES. 

I cup butter ^ teaspoon salt 

I ,'/3 cups soft brown sugar i teaspoon cinnamon 

3 eggs well beaten % teaspoon cloves 

1 teaspoon soda dissolved in Y^ teaspoon mace 

2 tablespoons boiling water i cup English walnuts, meats 
3^4 cups flour broken in pieces 

y2 cup currants 
Yz cup seeded and shredded raisins 
Process: Cream butter; add sugar gradually; add beaten 
eggs and soda dissolved in boiling water. Sift flour, salt and 
spices together, reserving one-fourth cup of flour to flour fruit 
and nuts. Add floured fruit to first mixture, then add flour, beat- 
ing constantly until ingredients are thoroughly blended. Drop 
from the tip of a spoon in small piles on a buttered tin 
sheet, place in a moderate oven and bake fifteen minutes. 

SOUR CREAM SPICE CAKE 

2 eggs 2 teaspoons soda 

Yi cup soft brown sugar i tablespoon ginger 

Yi cup N. O. molasses iJ4 teaspoon cinnamon 

^ cup sour cream %. teaspoon cloves 

i^ cups flour 14 teaspoon salt 

Process: Beat eggs thick and light; add sugar and continue 
beating; add molasses and sour cream; sift together twice, soda, 
spices, and salt; add to first mixture and beat thoroughly; bake 
thirty minutes in a moderate oven in a shallow, well buttered 
pan lined with buttered paper. 



142 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



GOLDEN GINGER DROPS. 

% cup butter i'/^ cups flour 

% cup soft brown sugar J/2 teaspoon cinnamoa 

J^ cup molasses % teaspoon cloves 

I teaspoon soda i tablespoon ginger 

H teaspoon salt Y2 cup boiling water 

I eggi beaten very light 
Process: Cream the butter; add sugar gradually; add mo- 
lasses. Mix and sift flour, salt and spices; dissolve soda in boil- 
ing water and add to first mixture alternately with flour; add 
lightly beaten egg; beat well and bake in small buttered iron 
gem cups in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. This mixture 
is very thin; make no changes in the ingredients. 

MARGUERITES. 
Boil one cup sugar with one-half cup water until it will spin 
a thread. Remove to back of range and add one-half dozen 
marshmallows cut in small pieces, beating constantly. When 
marshmallows are dissolved, pour syrup gradually on to the 
lightly beaten whites of two eggs; add two tablespoons each 
shredded raisins and almonds ; flavor with one-fourth teaspoon 
vanilla; when mixture is slightly cooled add two tablespoons 
freshly grated cocoanut; spread on Saratoga Wafers or Saltines 
and brown delicately in the oven. This mixture will spread 
about three dozen crackers. Serve with tea, cocoa or chocolate. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



CANAPES, SANDWICHES AND 
SAVORIES. 

CAVIAR CANAPE. 

Mix one-half cup caviar with one tablespoon lemon juice; 
season with cayenne and spread thinly over six circular slices 
of bread. Sprinkle a narrow ring of Spanish onions with 
paprika and lay it around the edge of canape. Place a deviled 
olive cut in quarters in the center of each canape. 

SARDINE CANAPE. 

Spread the desired number of circular pieces of toast. Dress 
with the following mixture: Remove the skin, bones and tail 
from sardines; rub to a paste with small quantity of creamed 
butter. Season highly with Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper 
and salt if necessary. Rub the yolk of an egg to a cream with an 
equal quantity of butter; pipe around the edge of canape, using a 
small tube and pastry bag. Small stuffed olives sliced in rings 
may be arranged in the center of each. Garnish with sprigs of 
parsley. 

CHEESE CANAPE. 

Spread circular pieces of toast with French mustard; over 
this sprinkle thickly grated Parmesan cheese seasoned with 
salt and cayenne; place in oven until cheese is melted and 
slightly toasted. 

HAM SANDWICH No. i. 

One can of potted ham or minced cold boiled ham, the meat 
of eight olives, and three-fourths cup shelled pecans chopped 
fine, cayenne to taste. Moisten with Mayonnaise to the con- 

143 



144 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

sistency to spread, butter bread slightly, and spread generously 
with the above mixture. Entire wheat, rye or white bread may 
be used. 

HAM SANDWICH No. 2. 

Make a Mayonnaise Dressing with yolk of one egg, one table- 
spoon olive oil, one tablespoon mixed mustard, eight tablespoons 
butter, few grains red pepper, few grains salt. Cream butter; add 
other ingredients; stir in minced ham until the desired con- 
sistency to spread between thin slices of buttered bread. 

CHICKEN SANDWICHES. 

Chop cold cooked chicken very fine; add a little finely 
chopped parsley and the yolk of a hard boiled egg; pound these 
ingredients to a paste; season highly with celery salt, onion 
juice and moisten with salad dressing (Boiled or Mayonnaise) ; 
spread one slice of bread with this mixture; lay a lettuce 
leaf over this, then the remaining slice of bread spread with 
butter or salad dressing. 

CLUB SANDWICHES. 

Prepare four triangular pieces of toasted bread spread 
with salad dressing; cover two of these with lettuce; lay thin 
slices of cold chicken (white meat) upon the lettuce; over this 
arrange slices of broiled breakfast bacon, then lettuce, and cover 
with the other triangles of toast spread with salad dressing. 
Trim neatly, arrange on a plate, and garnish with heart leaves 
of lettuce, sweet pickles or olives. 

RUSSIAN SANDWICHES. 

Rub to a paste one and one-half rolls Neufchatel cheese; to 
this add one-half cup chopped pecans and the finely chopped 
meat of twelve olives; season with salt and ca3'enne to taste; 
moisten mixture with Mayonnaise Dressing to the consistency 
to spread between Saltines, Zephrettes or any crisp cracker. 
Press them firmly together. 



CANAPES. SANDWICHES AND SAVORIES 145 

HOT CHEESE SANDWICHES. 
Cut bread into thin slices, stamp out circles with small bis- 
cuit cutter; put a thick layer of grated cheese over each but- 
tered circle, season each with salt and cayenne, press together 
and saute in equal quantities of butter and lard. Serve imme- 
diately. 

CHEESE SANDWICHES. 

Melt one teaspoon butter in a sauce-pan, add one cup grated 
cheese; season with one-fourth teaspoon paprika, one-fourth 
teaspoon mustard, one-half tablespoon Worcestershire sauce, a 
few drops onion juice; stir until the cheese is melted and smooth, 
then add two raw egg yolks beaten and diluted with one cup 
thin cream or milk. When cold, place between slices of nut, 
entire wheat, rye or white bread. 

SARDINE SANDWICHES. 

Drain one box sardines from the oil; remove skin, tail and 
fins, chop them fine and mix with half their quantity of chopped 
olive meat; add to this sufficient Maitre d' Hotel Butter to spread 
and season with few grains cayenne. Spread between thin slices 
of buttered bread. 

CANTON SWEET. 

Cut Boston brown bread in thin slices; cut these into small 
circles with a fairy biscuit cutter (the size of a silver dollar) ; 
spread one-half the circles with the following mixture: Giop 
Canton ginger very fine; add grated orange peel to taste, 
moisten mixture with ginger syrup to the consistency to spread: 
lay a circle of bread on top of each; press gently together. 

COTTAGE CHEESE WITH CHIVES. 

Put one cup cottage cheese packed solidly in a bowl; add 
one tablespoon finely chopped chives; season to taste v/ith salt 
and pepper. Add one-third cup cream and mix thoroughlj'. 
Spread between slices of rye bread. Do not feel that cream in 
this case is extravagant. It increases the food value of this 
variety of cheese and no butter is needed on the bread. 



146 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



CHEESE SAVORIES. 

Spread Saltines or split Bent water biscuit with a thin layer 
of anchovy butter; over this spread a thick layer of paste made 
of one part of creamed butter and two parts of Roquefort 
cheese; season with salt, cayenne and a few drops of Worces- 
tershire sauce. Garnish with a slice of stuffed olive. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



STEWED AND FRESH FRUITS. 

APPLE SAUCE. 

Wipe, pare, core, and slice the desired number of tart juicy 
apples into a sauce-pan; add sufficient hot water to prevent them 
from scorching. Cover and place on a range; bring to boiling 
point; cook them quickly. When apples are soft pass them 
through a ricer or sieve. Add a sprinkle of salt and sugar to 
sweeten them. Return to range and cook five minutes, stirring 
constantly. If sauce is served hot, add one tablespoon butter. 
Turn into serving dish and sprinkle with cinnamon or nutmeg. 
If served cold, omit butter. 

RHUBARB SAUCE. 

Wash and cut rhubarb in one-inch pieces without peeling. 
Put in a sauce-pan and sprinkle generously with sugar; add suffi- 
cient water to prevent rhubarb from scorching. As rhubarb 
contains a large percentage of water, it needs but little added 
when cooking. Cover and simmer until soft. If boiling water 
is poured over rhubarb before cooking and allowed to stand 
five minutes, then drained, less sugar will be required. If baked 
in a shallow earthen pudding dish, closely covered, it will re- 
tain its rich pink color. 

BAKED APPLES. 

Wash, wipe and core the desired number of tart apples; 
place in a granite or earthen dish and fill cavities with sugar, 
butter and cinnamon, using two-thirds cup of sugar, one-half 
teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg to eight apples. If nutmeg is 
used a slight grating of lemon rind and few drops of lemon 
juice may be added to each apple. Cover bottom of dish with 

147 



148 THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 

boiling water to the depth of one-half inch; place in oven and 
bake until apples are soft, basting often with syrup in pan. 
Serve hot or cold, with or without cream. 

STEWED PRUNES. 

Prunes running forty to fifty to the pound are considered the 
best. Wash and pick over carefully; put them in a sauce-pan, 
add cold water to cover and let soak several hours, then cook 
until soft in the same water. When cooked, skim out the prunes 
and sweeten the liquor to taste with sugar or syrup ; cook five 
minutes, then strain over prunes. A one-inch piece of ginger 
root may be cooked with the prunes or two thin shavings of 
lemon rind; thus the flavor may be varied. 

CRANBERRY JELLY. 

Pick over and wash one quart cranberries. Seed two-thirds 
cup of raisins; add to cranberries; add one cup boiling water 
and boil twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve and add to pulp 
two cups of sugar; cook five minutes, stirring constantly. Turn 
into a mould previoulsy wet with cold water. Chill and serve. 

INDIAN RIVER RELISH. 

Select fine, large Indian River grape fruit; cut into halves; re- 
move center pith; loosen pulp in each section; fill center with 
oranges peeled and cut into half-inch cubes, and Malaga grapes 
peeled and seeded; dredge heavily with powdered sugar and 
sprinkle all with freshly grated cocoanut. Serve at beginning of 
luncheon. 

GRAPE FRUIT WITH FIGS. 

Select fine, large, heavy grape fruit. Chill; cut into halves; 
remove the white, bitter principle from center; loosen each sec- 
tion of pulp from shell with small sharp knife. Sprinkle thickly 
with washed figs cut into shreds. Dredge thickly with powdered 
sugar, add one teaspoon sherry wine. Serve at luncheon. Omit 
wine, and serve at breakfast. 



STEWED AND FRESH FRUITS 149 

ORANGES A LA HOLLAND HOUSE. 

Select fine large juicy oranges; chill, and pare the desired 
number with a sharp knife, taking care to remove all the white 
bitter principle. Cut each orange in quarters, beginning at the 
stem end. Remove the core by cutting a slice off the sharp edge 
of each quarter. Arrange five quarters cut side down, on each 
chilled fruit plate, radiating from a pyramid of powdered sugar 
placed in center of plate. This pyramid may be made by pack- 
ing sifted confectioners' sugar in a pony glass, then inverting 
the same on the center of each fruit plate; tap the glass gently, 
then remove it, and the sugar will form a complete cast of the 
glass. 

ORANGE MINT RELISH. 

Remove the skin and all the white portion from four large 
oranges. Cut in one-fourth inch slices and the slices into cubes 
of uniform size. To this add an equal quantity of canned pine- 
apple cut in wedge-shaped pieces; sprinkle with one-fourth cup 
of powdered sugar, two tablespoons of finely chopped mint, one 
tablespoon lemon juice and three tablespoons of sherry wine. 
Chill thoroughly and serve in tall champagne glasses and gar- 
nish each with a sprig of mint. 

STRAWBERRIES A LA FRANCAISE. 

Place a mould of sugar in the center of a chilled fruit plate 
and arrange around it a border of choice unhulled strawber- 
ries, previously brushed with a soft brush, or washed and drained 
on a crash towel to remove the sand. Serve at the beginning 
of a luncheon or breakfast. 

SERVING WATERMELON. 

Cut a slice four inches thick from the center of a thoroughly 
chilled watermelon; remove the green rind, leaving only the 
edible portion; place upon a cold platter, in a bed of foliage; 
cut in the same manner as pie, serving a section to each per- 
son; pass bar (fine granulated) sugar. 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



NUTMEG AND SMALL MELONS. 

Select small ripe melons, wash them with a brush and chill 
thoroughly; cut in halves, scoop out the seeds, and serve on 
a bed of cracked ice, garnish with foliage. If melons are small, 
serve one to each person ; if large, a half is daintier. Do not put 
ice into seed cavity; it dilutes the juice of the melon and destroys 
the flavor. 

MARYLAND CANAPE. 

Lay a slice of pineapple on a slice of peeled and chilled to- 
mato a trifle larger. Arrange thin slices of bananas overlap- 
ping each other on top of pineapple. Fill space in center with 
a large cherry or strawberry cut in quarters. Surround the 
Canape with heart lettuce leaves and serve with French Dress- 
ing No. 2. 

SALTED ALMONDS. 

Blanch the almonds, by putting them in a sauce-pan, cover 
with boiling water, let them stand three to four minutes, drain 
and cover with cold water. Remove the skins, dry on a crash 
towel and fry a golden brown in very hot olive oil. Drain 
on brown paper, and while hot sprinkle with salt. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



TIMELY HINTS. 

TO SCALD MILK. 

Bring water to boiling point in the lower part of double 
boiler. Replace the top of boiler, turn in milk, cover and let 
stand until a scum forms on top of milk and milk bubbles around 
the edges. 

TO BUTTER CRUMBS. 

If cracker or bread crumbs are used, allow from four to 
five and one-half tablespoons butter to each cup of crumbs. 
Melt butter in sauce-pan, add crumbs and toss lightly with a 
fork until thoroughly mixed with the butter and each little par- 
ticle has a coating. 

TO CREAM BUTTER. 

Use either an earthen or enameled mixing bowl. Place 
butter in bowl, mash with a wooden spoon, then continue work- 
ing with spoon until butter becomes of a creamy consistency. 
As the milk is pressed out of the butter, drain it off. 

TO EXTRACT JUICE FROM ONION. 

Cut a slice from the root end of onion and scrape with a 
knife, or if a grater is used the skin may be peeled off one- 
fourth inch around the cut side. After extracting the juice the 
remainder of onion may be placed cut side down on a small 
plate covered with a bowl and set in a cool place for future 
use; onion will keep several days if thus cared for. 

ACIDULATED WATER. 

Vinegar or lemon juice is added to water in the proportion 
of one tablespoon acid to four cups or one quart water. 

151 



THE PRACTICAL COOK BOOK 



BLANCHING ALMONDS. 

Pour boiling water over almonds and let them stand three 
or four minutes. Drain and cover vi^ith cold w^ater. Then take 
one at a time between the fingers, press lightly and the hull will 
slip ofif. Dry on crash towels. 

SHREDDED ALMONDS. 

After blanching take each almond on a hard wood board and 
cut it in three or four strips lengthwise. Each strip divide in 
half. Each almond should inake eight shreds. 

TO PREPARE MUSTARD. 

To two tablespoons mustard add one-half tablespoon sugar 
and enough boiling water to form a thick paste, stirring con- 
stantly. Diluted vinegar may be used in place of boiling water. 

CHOPPING PARSLEY. 

Wash and dry the parsley in a crash towel. Wring it so 
as to free it from some of the moisture. Pick off the leaflets, 
place them together closely and cut them with a sharp knife 
fine and thin. Then place the index finger of the left hand on 
the point of the knife; work it with the right hand like a chop- 
ping knife until the parsley is finely chopped. By wringing out 
the moisture before chopping, parsley will sprinkle much better. 

CARAMELIZING SUGAR. 

Put the required quantity of sugar in sauce-pan. Place on 
range and stir constantly until sugar melts. It will begin to cook 
almost immediately and must be watched very carefully. When 
the desired shade of brown is reached, remove sugar at once. 
It should be about the color of maple syrup. If too dark it 
will be very bitter. 

TO PREPARE CARAMEL. 

Caramelize the sugar as in the foregoing suggestion. Add 
an equal quantity boiling water and let simmer until the con- 



TIMELY HINTS 15^ 



sistency of a rich syrup. Turn into a bottle, cork, and use for 
coloring soups, sauces, etc. 

CARE OF TEA AND COFFEE POTS. 

The inside of both tea and coffee pots should never be 
washed in soap suds. They should be thoroughly rinsed, then 
scalded with boiling water. If enameled or agate ware is used, 
and becomes discolored, the pots should be filled with cold 
water, one tablespoon borax or soda added, then bring gradu- 
ally to boiling point. Boil five minutes, turn water from pots. 
Rub with soft paper and the discoloration will be removed. If 
a dark stain still remains, rub with Bon Ami or Dutch Cleanser; 
rinse pot with boiling water, drain, wipe dry. 

CARE OF DOVER EGG BEATER. 

When washing Dover egg beater, do not allow the cogs of 
the beater to get into the dish water. It washes the oil from 
the cogs, and prevents them from working smoothly. 

TO MAKE A PASTRY BAG. 

Buy one-third yard rubber cloth; divide in three squares; fold 
each on a bias, forming a triangular bag. Stitch on the sewing 
machine. Cut oflf one and one-half inch of the point, leaving 
an opening large enough to insert a pastry tube. This quantity 
rubber will make three pastry bags for less money than the 
cost of one ready made bag. 



(( 



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Mrs. Hiller, 
the author of 
this book, says: 



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best made article of the kind that I have 
found; with care one should last a lifetime." 

The air in 

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is the reason that they keep things fresh and 
wholesome longer than other refrigerators. 

Write for the free book, " How to Use Leftover 
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McCray Refrigerator Co. 

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Mrs. Hiller 
highly recommends 

Morey's 
Solitaire 

Coffee, Tea, Spices, Extracts 

and 
Canned Goods 




Mrs. Hiller 

uses and recommends 

Colorado Beet Sugar 

for all purposes 

All competent authorities, including the 
United States Department of Agriculture, 
agree that properly refined beet sugar is 
equal in every respect to the finest cane 
sugar. 

Ask your grocer for 

Colorado Beet Sugar 

An absolutely pure food product 

Made by 

The Great Western Sugar Co. 

Denver, Colorado 



Rumford 

The Wholesome 

Baking Powder 

It is endorsed by the most em- 
inent physicians for its Whole- 
someness and Purity, and receives 
the highest commendation of our 
best housekeepers for the Hght, 
deHcate food it produces, its supe- 
rior strength and keeping quaHty 

Does not contain alum 




^OU'LL never find 
any dish that so fully 
meets all the require- 
ments of a perfect food as 

Quaker Oats 

Properly cooked and served with 
sugar and milk, or cream, it is 
delicious. 

It is recognized as the greatest 
strengtn-maker, and its cost is least 
of all good foods. 



Jhe Quaker Qats (pmpany 

CHICAGO 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



